The album of Ariel #422

[Tony G]

Captain K

Your sandwich panels keep haunting me. Not in a bad way from your perspective, but in so much as I have this 'overweight' fear stemming from all of the baltic birch I used in my remodel. early on I hedged my bets for strength rather than weight. As time progressed and things continually evolve I sometimes fear the cumulative weight of all the built-ins will have a negative impact on trim, speed and carrying capacity of stores.

So now I'm seriously considering how I should approach the 'revamping' of my remodel. I will be looking at where we can use some sandwich panels to lighten things up a bit. Because there are so few remaining bulkheads and dividers left to go in it will be a challenge. So in your spare time maybe you could peruse the photos of 113's interior and offer up some suggestions.

But! I did manage to find some photos of panels made for use in Baltic Yachts. You know by now that I'm a picture kind of guy.

[CapnK]

Here are some pics of what I came up with for a cheap alternative to those overly-expensive composting heads. I have been using this for several weeks now, and have been very pleased with the result. Works great, and is dirt cheap (no pun intended ). More details @ a thread I started on sailFar to describe it.

Tony - wow, that foam ply construct is just what I was thinking. I don't think I'll have time/money to implement it, but - great illustration, glad to know I'm not totally off base.

Ebb - I'll follow this post up with more of my external chainplate stuff; I don't want to hijack TonyG's thread (more than we did already... ).

[CapnK]

Both the 5 gal bucket and the coffee can sit recessed about 5-6" into the sole under the sink; the bucket is actually resting on the hull, the can is sitting on the lip of the cabin sole which projects aft under the sink-area sole.

The wooden structure surround is approx 15" square, 12" tall, there is 2' even of space above the seat.

[Tony G]

Just gotta let you know how much I applaud you for taking the first step in the DIY composter here. Initially it seems like you are stepping out onto a highwire but realistically how could it be any worse than a wet-head gone wrong? As a matter of fact once you get past the 'I fear poo factor' it seems striaght forward.

There seems to be plenty of information on the web regarding DIY 'composting toilets' for land use. And they all tend to be larger and swankier than what is really practicle for our purpose. Even the 'off the grid' crowd seem to enjoy taking plenty of space.

Hats off and a dropped trou to you!!

P.s. I noticed the now idle porta-potie in one of your earlier photos. I wonder if they would make a suitable platform to build the top half of a composter without too much work.

[ebb]

5 gal pail, one funnel, one bottle.
I also applaud your formula!
Equal in its simplicity (and importance!) to the equation above!


As to the cedar herreschoff bucket post on your websight,
it does seem possible to line your boxframe inside with tennessee closet lining.
Here's to many successful downloads.

[CapnK]

Tony, I thought of adapting the porta potty seat in some way, but after mulling it over, decided to forget it as it would have been much more work, for a less comfortable seat.

Re: those IP pics: Cool!!! Pics which show just what I was talking about with the IP chainplates...

Here's my extra chainplate explanation:

Ebb, everything in this pic is plastic and glass, no metals at all:
Attachment 6706 (<--- also at bottom of this post, attached to Tony before)

A bolt will come through the hole in the middle, from outside, that holds the chainplate. It'll have a big ol' washer or two on it, and a nut holding the whole assembly in place. The FRP thingamajigger is purely there to spread the load from that bolt coming thru the hull; to change it from a point load of vertical shear in one small location, by spreading the stress down and out onto a large area of the hull.

There will likely be two 1/4" layers of solid FRP located on the inside of the hull at each chainplate, one layer against the hull basically the same size as the chainplate, and then a row of these tabular things bonded to that which will help the FRP rope grip against the shear via a wider radius than if it simply wrapped over a bolt.

Put in the big piece against the hull, attach the smaller tabs, fair it all in with resin thickened w/colloidal so that the rope over the tabs has nice straight runs down onto the hull. Use that rope to spread the vertical shear stresses out over several square feet of hull surface, instead of just right there at the 'plates.

Here's a visual attempt at explanation:



Do dat make mo sense?

[Tony G]

Ahhhh. I can see clearly now my brain is gone....

Dang, Kurt you keep raising the bar! I am confidently hoping that the laminating schedule I used when tabbing in the aft lower chainplate knees and the main bulkhead did add enough beef to keep the bolt shafts of the external chainplates from 'egging' the bolt holes in the hull. I put down stitched matting, fabric, matting, roving, topped with matting again. I added 1/4" - 3/8" to the hull via the tabbing. I really like your approach but I am not taking out the main bulkhead so half of the fibergalss 'rope' would have to make a 90 and spread onto the bulkhead (and aft CP knee if I didn't remove 'em)
Does anyone here have any bad experiences with other boats and external chainplates?