Port frames, again

[Tony G]

Looking for more ideas and input here. The inside frames for the four big ports on 113 are in pretty tough shape. Two are in several pieces, one cracked 3/4 the way through in one spot and one frame in mint condition(less scratches, gouges and sealant). The ideas have ranged from...
1)filling in the big holes and putting in smaller opening ports-too much money involved to hide from the missus there.
2)Build epoxy frames for the inside using an oversized mould cast from the one existing good frame.
3)Build wood frames for the inside.
4)Use the outside frames(in great shape) inside and seal new oversized lexan/plexi to the outside of the cabin and use counter sunk screws of the right length to give a smooth surface on the out side. Maybe even ones with an allen head to give a real cool look.
5)Have new metal frames cut for the inside.
I dunno, cost is an issue as I have really hit the kitty hard this winter. Usually other people have better ideas than I do. Let's hear them.

[Tony G]

Wait a minute folks, we have a late entry here. #6) separate the head liner from the cabin side a good half inch, then fill the space with a good, stout mixture of epoxy-milled glass-cabosil. Reshape the outside edge with a rounded chamfer to allow drainage. Seal the plexi/lexan to the inside and mount it with screws tapped into the epoxy mix surrounding the opening.

Sorry, this one was so fast I didn't get a chance to use any color.

[epiphany]

Tony -

I like that idea. The only reservation I would have would be the strength of the screws tapped into epoxy. Thinking of it from an ocean-sailors point of view, it would be better/stronger to glass a nut into the area between liner and cabintrunk side, or a small, pre-tapped piece of SS bar stock. If the deadlight took the force of a boarding wave, I'd want it to be able to hold on tight.

#370's frames look to be in good shape, but until I (attempt to) remove them, I guess I won't know for sure if they are. Your idea seems eminently workable, and a good alternative to other thoughts I've had about the frames. Thanks!

PS - Remember #248, the neglected and abused Ariel I posted about a month or so ago? I needed a part for my old boats diesel, and that yard was the only place around that it was available. While there, I mentioned to the yard owner about buying #248 for the parts of her which still have life - spar, boom, deadlight frames, cleats, etc... His price was high enough that I dismissed the idea, but if others are interested in the parts, maybe I should work a deal with him?

[ebb]

Tony, briefly,
If done carefully and with the correct goop/caulk, bolting the lexan right to the cabin sides and THRU the cabin sides is the way to go, if the original frames are not restorable and we're not going to wait for the bronze Triton patterns to magically appear.

If you choose 1/2" smoked lexan and thru bolted it to Prefilled sides and then crafted a nice wood frame around inside, you would have a bluewater worthy installation with lots of light and much less claustrophobia than the smaller and heavier looking opening ports. Those 4 large deadlights add a lot to the open feeling of the cabin.

You could leave the outside modern with the edge of the lexan showing and bolt heads or machine screws in those cupped washers or make covering wood frames here too. Filling the cabin liner space nets out 1/2" fill, maybe enough to 'lag' the fasteners. It's rediculously easy to make a pattern and rout the dead lights perfect. Or you can have a shop do it, getting them to melt the edge to a flawless perfection.

Whatever you decide make certaing you can pull them 7 years down the line, or sooner if they develop a leak. Which they won't, of course!

I think I'm trying to say that the thrubolted lexan becomes structural with this method. The frames cosmetic.


I'm always reminded of the 'Smeaton Effect' where when you take blue water aboard anything sticking up is likely to get SHEERED off. If your deadlight is held on with a dozen #12 flathead machine bolts and it sticks out 1/2" from the cabin side, I can't see them getting peeled off. Thru bolt!

[Tony G]

I once wrote that while I may never take this boat to the sea shore I didn't want to do any thing that limited her from being sea worthy and capable of off-shore work.

Through bolts certainly would be the easiest, fastest and most secure route to take. But yet I kind of want to avoid that 'industrial' look. Yeah, I've seen alot of boats with them, and, they do have a certain rugged good look to them. But, I've seen alot of boats without them too. Boats with good off-shore pedigrees.

I do like the idea of pre-tapped stainless bar stock. No machining needed that I couldn't do here, at home. Does it even have to be stainless steel? After all, our port frames are made from aluminum, correct? How far do those port frame screws screw into that outside frame? How many screws hold those pieces together? I guess one could make a valid argument that the originals weren't really off-shore grade ( 'had to throw a face in there. I hadn't used one in so long )

I don't know why I want to extend the rebuild any longer than possible but I like the ideas floating around here. I'm goin' over to Ebb's thread to look around. Anybody here taken apart an Alden lately?

[commanderpete]

They sell different styles of barrel nuts, some flush.

http://www.shipstore.com/ss/html/BEC/BECBB25001.html