Deck hardware plan, and

[c_amos]

THe good Captain Ebb has returned my Cowl to me after he concluded to he was going another direction.

I always liked the cowl vent, and never experienced taking significant water below through it.... I removed it since I was heading out for an extended cruise and expected to see big seas... which we did.

I am no longer fearful of having the 3" hole in the bow, with a scoup.... The bow rarely crashes into the waves, and the receptacle can be plugged with a standard 3" PVC pluming cap.

When it was mounted before, I had it on the Stbd side and used it to pass the chain down into the locker. It was really nice being able to pass links even when they were laid up on each other.

SO.... what say the peanut gallery? Should I replace the 1.5" capped chain scuttle and just place this back in same location? Should I leave the cap, and place the cowl on the port side?

What say the gallery?

Here is a picture, kinda tough to see... I will look for a better one.

[ebb]

Craig,
Upscale marina there! Looks like you're tied up to a putting green!
Like that stealth bimini too!

Once saw an interesting way to waterproof deck holes.

You mount a chain pipe* fitting onto a wood pad that has a groove all round its side so a canvas cap can be lashed over the thing. Like a winch cover.

Another idea for rough weather is to remove the cowl and replace it with an aluminum disk. Don't know if that would work with the ole cowl you have.


But you are in Florida
and there must be others here in the bleacher seats who would like to know
how you reduce damp and mold in the forepeak. Is the old cowl enough?
Won't rain get in?
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* why is a traditional curved bronze chainpipe fitting not designed with a gasketed screw on cover?
It's not as if the pipe has to be instantly available at all times for the anchor chain, right?
The center of the cap could have a loose hook through it - that could take a chain link - so it would be right there for the anchor when the cap is unscrewed.
As it is, it is instantly available to take water below. The bonnet idea seems doable.

[Tony G]

Ahhh. Always a pleasure to look on her beauty. Hands down one of the best looking boats in the fleet.

I have seen photos of the set-up Ebb is talking about. I thought one could have a canvas cover rough weather and a mesh cover for when the bitin' little b@$!@*%$ are out. We have the screw-in aluminum(?) cap that came with the cowl but I'm gathering there are not many out there that aren't on the bottom of some harbour or lake.

Do you have problems with your present chain pipe, Craig? An inch and a half does seem kind of narrow. Normally I turn to you for advice so maybe I should refrain from offering my opinion.

[c_amos]

...Do you have problems with your present chain pipe, Craig? An inch and a half does seem kind of narrow. Normally I turn to you for advice so maybe I should refrain from offering my opinion.

Please don't ever do that Tony.

Yes, the 1.5" pipe is a bit tight, never had a chain snag where I could not clear it with a twist or two though....

Was down working on the boat all day, had brought the 4 1/8 hole saw to re-mount the cowl. I was all set to remove the chain pipe, and mount it there (which is pretty close to where it was)... it did not feel right.

I am going to do some more thinking on this one.


FWIW, the OEM pearson cowl takes a standard PVC pipe cap (even has the right threads). I suspect the OEM screw in cap you have is a rare bit of kit.

Ahhh. Always a pleasure to look on her beauty. Hands down one of the best looking boats in the fleet.

Thanks, those where her 'glamor shots' taken at my retirement (of which she was a proud participant).

[c_amos]

....how you reduce damp and mold in the forepeak. Is the old cowl enough?
Won't rain get in?...

There never was any significant water ingress through that cowl when I had it mounted on the bow (before I removed it). I suspect that in the right conditions it could let some in but since the anchor locker has a drain anyway it would not be much of an issue in my mind anyway... but then again that might just be because there is not much room in there (my mind)...

[c_amos]

I realized i never updated this thread with the results.

After living with the hardware set up I arrived at in this thread, I am very pleased.

As I just posted in another thread;

I have had my Windline URM-3 on the bow of Faith with excellent results.

The Manson likes it, the bail clears well, and the anchor sits on it nicely.

The curve of the anchor rides on the front of the roller when the rode is tensioned (secured)... this picks up the tip of the anchor nicely, and cuts down on the rattle / clanging that can happen in rough conditions.

The Bow roller was placed on a 1" block of white oak encapsulated in epoxy and serverly through bolted to the deck. It was backed by a large plywood backing plate beneith, that was bedded to the underside of the deck to transfer the loads nicely. The plywood backing plate was also cpvered with an aluminum plate to make sure the bolts could not pull through the plywood.

Here is a picture of it while the deck was being re-done;



Here is a (unfortunately poor) picture once the cleats were added....

... and the boat was cruised and used hard for several months;

[c_amos]

Just saw this picture elsewhere...

LOOK at those CHOCKS!

[Tony G]

WHOA! I wasn't ready for that one! Are those custom made? They are u....unusual. And isn't the rode supposed to in the chocks? Or is the hose to protect the rode where it rides on the rail? I gotta say, Craig, that photo confuses me.

[c_amos]

No expert, just saw it on the internet. I believe the boat is a Wayfarer 24, and the lines seem to be part of a bridle for a mooring ball. There are two very large sections of fire hose being used as chafe guard...

I recall Ebb talking about wanting big chocks with wide angles... I saw the picture, and thought I would share it.

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FWIW, my set up has been working exceptionally well. The large cleats lead 'up' to most any dock or pileing so there is very little chafe. I have not felt the need to add a rubstrake on top of the deckedge.

I know they are really really big by some standards, but I still really like the 10" cleats forward, midships, and aft. I mostly single hand, and just this evening coming in from a nice days sail in the dark I was thinking how nice it was to easily slip my spring lines midships while the boat was moving into the slip...

[ebb]

Those chocks in the photo need to be reversed I think, to have the line that goes thru them lead forward without going around a sharp edge.
A sharp edge that would wear away chaffing gear just as easily as the line will if bent at a sharp angle in the fitting.

But also that crisscross there may be necessary so that there is a fair lead for the line into the chock.

My idea for a proper chock would be to use a bollard style double post* with angled tops to help keep the warp from lifting out. Wouldn't have any of this sharp angle stuff that is so popular.
the two fore chocks would have to be bigger fittings. Also able to handle warp in chaffing gear.
Even the top angle pieces should be rounded in case the line spends any time in the up position - like at a tidal dock or riding out a strorm with ups and downs.

I have the clay model that needs developing. One of these days.

*The British Davies line of traditional bronze fittings show some 'bollard' style chocks, but need sculptural upgrading for modern anchoring.

Imco it would be better to have the cleats near the chocks so that the warp eye loop leads overboard with the splice overboard and not able to rub, or get yanked and stretched, or work on anything.
The eye and splice for storm work, or any anchoring, should probably be parceled and served with the loop leathered where it bears in the cleat.
I know that sounds rediculous to some.
But the connection to the boat has to be just as extreme as the storm you expect the boat to survive. Don't know that that is an opinion.

There may be other ways, I'm sure.