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Thread: Deck hardware plan, and

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by c_amos View Post
    Anyone know where I can get a good deal on 6 10" bronze cleats?
    What about post #25 at http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...3247#post13247
    ??

  2. #17
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    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    Mid-ship cleats are a good thing. I'm going to install some larger ones

    The cowl vent can be a water scoop when its rough out.
    Most of the time I have it turned around.

    I just picked up this 4" dorade box with baffle on sale for $80. The plan is to remove the cowl vent and mount a nicro solar vent on top of the dorade box.

    http://www.marinershardware.com/OrdDorChes.php

    If you're going to have an anchor roller platform, that might be a good place to have a tack fitting for an Asymmetrical spinnaker

  3. #18
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    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill View Post
    Thanks Bill,

    If I were going back with the original 6" cleats that would work. I have decided to use 3 sets of 10" bronze hershoff cleats. I am enjoying to larger cleats I have put on the stern, but not enjoying the little bits of surface rust I have had to polish off.... I guess they were 304 and not 316....

    My slip faces out to the river, and it can get rough so I like 5/8" lines, and the 10" cleat easily accepts the stern line, and the after spring.



    s/v 'Faith'

    1964 Ariel #226
    Link to our travels on Sailfar.net

  4. #19
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    Oh yea.

    Early on in this thread I posted;

    I have another set of 12” Hershoff cleats I can use, that I was going to place in-line like the cleats are now.

    Thoughts?
    I wanted BIG cleats... 10" is perfect (IMHO). The 12" cleats looked SO MUCH bigger, and were WAY too large for an Ariel. I sold them to a guy with a 45' powerboat.


    s/v 'Faith'

    1964 Ariel #226
    Link to our travels on Sailfar.net

  5. #20
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    Portsmouth, Virginia
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    Recent view of the chocks on my Commander, Njord. I like these, lines have never chaffed even in our recent Nor Easters which damaged lines on my Pearson 26 and the lines never slip out. Note the solar garden stern light, we still do not have electrical power on the dock from three years ago, will remove it when we get electrical sometime next week. Light helps boarding at night.
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by Robert Lemasters; 01-20-2007 at 10:26 AM. Reason: miss spelling

  6. #21
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    Robert,

    Those are nice chocks... I understand that is the type they specify for transit of the Panama canal... so in case that is in your plans you are all set.


    I have made some progress, the bow roller is mounted, as is the bow pulpit and stantions. I have the bow cleats centered between the mounting bases for the bow pulpit, about 2" in from the rail. (yes, I know... I will take some pictures... )

    Now my question is where to mount hte mid ships cleats. I believe that the center of the Ariel falls right in between the portlights. That space is already taken by a stantion. I am thinking that I would rather have them slightly aft of that, as that is probably closer to the center of lateral resistance (where the balance point would be if you tried to drag the boat through the water sideways. A friend of mine made a pretty good argument for trying to figure out exactly where that point was and mountng them there....

    I wonder if anyone has looked at this before, or knows a reason why they might be better placed somewhere other then just aft of midships>?

    Thanks,


    s/v 'Faith'

    1964 Ariel #226
    Link to our travels on Sailfar.net

  7. #22
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    Sometimes you want to run a line fore or aft from the cleat.

    If the cleat is too close to the stantion the line might rub against it.
    Attached Images  

  8. #23
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    Thumbs up midships cleat

    Thanks for the cool visual, C'Pete.

    Is there any further discussion here?
    We see two alternatives for spring lines.
    I favor the first example because very often you don't have the one or two dock cleats as diagramed. (And the springs would be too long if taken to the dock's bow and stern cleats.)

    If I saw a sailboat tied up as shown in the second example, I would be looking at a temporary solution, as I imagine one line is tied off to a sheet winch at the cockpit and another to maybe a shroud plate or turnbuckle. Right?

    Also, what is happening to the spring lines as they cross at the rail? Here would I mount a chock rather than a cleat? Don't know that a line friendly chock is available that would take even one line at a fair angle?

    The first example shows what has to be a midship tie-off cleat. Where do we mount such a cleat on the Ariel? On the rail or next to the cabin?
    A tie-off point on the rail would take some real installation finesse. An inboard cleat would be a tripper and a cusser. And a midships cleat or chock can run afoul of a rail stanchion.

    You have these lay-down and pop-up cleats now, but they would require you make a deep unsightly pocket for them in the middle of the cabin! It looks like a cleat on the rail is the only option?

    Be great to see a photo if somebody has figured this out.

    Anybody have an idea, or more?
    Last edited by ebb; 03-04-2007 at 07:03 AM.

  9. #24
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    Midship cleats

    Not cheap and designed to fit nicely on a Cape Dory toerail, these Spartan Marine beauties might solve a lot of problems such as the spring line rubbing against a stantion or worse a foot injury from an awkward-placed cleat on the sidedeck. I do not know how they might fit on the glass toerail on the Ariel, but my friend has them on his CD-27 and they are SWEET! The last thing I want is a speed bump to the foredeck.



  10. #25
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    Those are gorgeous! They'd look lovely on Ebb's new toe rails!

    This location works just fine for me. It's out of the walkway and I really like having the mid-ship cleats.
    Attached Images  
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  11. #26
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    Here's another view. You can see the cleat is tucked between the stanchion base and the chainplate, so toes are never really subjected to the pointy ends. Fortunately, a PO installed it so I never had to think about where to put it...
    Attached Images  
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  12. #27
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    Hatches

    I love the companionway and forward hatch on #414 covered with strips of wood. Did you do that or the PO? Teak or Mahogany? Mechanically fastened or adhered? I think I just added another project to my list. That brings the number up to about 1851 so far...

    BTW-Delivery of A-24 to my house should be within a week. Then I'm going to go post-happy.

  13. #28
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    Thanks Tim. I'd like to take credit, but that is one on many nice touches a PO added when restoring her a few years back. They are teak veneer (I think) that has been adhered. Not something I would have thought of doing, but I really like the look. All I get credit for so far is cutting up the decks...

    Happy delivery!
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  14. #29
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    midrail cleat

    That there midrail cleat toe-knocker does look out of the way there.

    Those nice Sparten bronze combos are sweet Herreschoff like fittins aren't they? The photo showing one in a rail is interesting because it is not dapped in all the way as in would normally be - and it looks just fine, doesn't it? I'd grind the ends rounded.

    The Ariel molded toe rail is 1 1/2" high off the deck. I can't see any reason why those Spartens couldn't be installed IN the toerail. You'd have to be a contortionist to do it with out removing original shelves inside. But there isn't much special about them! They're only 1960's A/C plywood.

    How deep are the Spartens under the end flanges? That's the key.
    Another little clitch is the 1/2 round s.s. seam trim. I suppose if it's not glued on by now you could loosen screws and push 'rubrail' down the little bit required for the toerail surgery - maybe.

    You'd probably CUT THE TOE RAIL to fit with the those flanges sitting on the rail. Then you'd prep the inside, now that you can see, by packing the cove with glass a good distance up and down from the opening. Just imagining here:
    Then you'd set about filling the hole under the fitting and building it up to some thickness. Probably have to do some crafty sculpting to make the fitting look factory. But that's what epoxy is good at. Might think about over sizing the bolts, too. Could give the installation good strength with some over-building just in case that fititng gets some sparten tugging on it!

    Just the bolts alone will make you gasp. What do those cleat/chocks go for these days?? Look heavy.
    Wouldn't they look fantastic?
    Last edited by ebb; 03-05-2007 at 07:27 AM.

  15. #30
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    Mid-Ship cleat price

    One Spartan mid-rail cleat = $120 Burnished or $150 polished.

    Small price to pay to have the sexiest toerails in the harbor.

    Here is a link to the CD forum where installation was discussed.
    http://www.capedory.org/board/viewto...=midship+cleat


    Here is a link to the Spartan Marine catalog. Prepare to drool and before you click on the link, hide your credit cards...
    http://www.spartanmarine.com/

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