Hope that 'Bill Ariel 231' will post here. He is more practical and less wordy than I.
The support beam has a bow in it, of course, that more or less conforms to the curve of the coach roof. The support beam supports the composite fiberglass/balsa laminate that the mast step and mast sits on.
I believe that over time there is natural settling and shrinking that happens even though the wood of the beam is still in good condition. If you have opening across the top it may merely be a condition of age. Even bad original fitting that has opened even more.
Test the beam for soft spots especially in the center. If you have rot, that is a more complicated problem. It's another diagnosis. A repair such as described below cannot be fudged on a rotton beam. Replacement.
Check the curve of the roof outside to see if the mast rigging has pulled the mast into the roof any. Flattened it.
Because the navigation wires (used to) go into the interior through a hole under the hollow of the mast, rain water may have rotted the balsa under the mast-step in the composite. Check the roof if there is a slightly more localized depression. Needs to be fixed.
The coach roof should have a fair curve to it. Anything else requires a change in plan.
If you are lucky to have the mast sitting on a nice round cabin roof without any flattening (you may be the first!) then you can go about finding a way to fill the narrow space between the beam and the coach roof inside.
When you decide to go full monte on this fix, you remove the deck mast step by taking out the two 1/4" (#16) bronze flat-head lags that clamp it to the beam inside. Could be problem. When mine came out on 338 the cabin roof nearly returned to its original molded curve. And the narrow space inside opened up considerably more.
Pearson fudged the fit when assembling the Ariel as they used the mast support beam to clamp in the forward end of the cabin liner. That means that any fix cannot be attempted from the cabin - but from the V-berth area. It also supposes that the beam didn't fit quite as snug as it was supposed to. The beam may be tight against the liner on plywood bulkhead side but not quite so tight on the V-berth side.
You cannot fix the space problem with the mast rigged and pushing down on the roof. You can fix it when you RETURN THE COACH ROOF TO ITS ORIGINAL MOLDED CURVE by temporarily relieving all the pressures on it. The mast has to be taken down.
The coach roof has some rounded dimensions that isn't really compatible with flat carpentry.
Look at the problem with a few options in mind. You could for example bandsaw and shape to fit a single piece of wood that you glue into the space. That's the best way.
One uncommon way to consider.
Clean, scrape and remove paint, silicone snot, fillers that are in and around the space. You are working from the V-berth side. And you are deciding what you can do that will keep the roof totally supported.
I have had success using wood filler pieces and epoxy mishmash (laminating epoxy, fumed silica as thickener, and 1/4" chopped fiberglass strand) a kind of hairy pudding.
Wet the inside area with plain mixed epoxy and wipe it up best you can. Use terry toweling pieces stapled to thin battens. Get this 'primer/bond coat' dry as you can after wetting so that your mishmash won't mix with it and loosen and sag out of the joint.
Slide your wood filler pieces in slathered with gobs of pudding. You will have done a dry run so you know they fit good and where. The more wood, the less expensive glue. Longer pieces might even add a little strength to the beam.
Make sure you are stuffing the cavity all across the top.* You may be using some shim/wedges to get a tired coach roof to curve back properly - no forcing - you don't want to put anything under tension here - it will pull apart later - just enough.
I would shim the coach up using the beam in the center if necessary. Or prop the coach roof fair next to the beam with some 1X2 or 2X2 from the berth or sole. They'll be in the way, tho.
You might have a special shim or two that can be left epoxied in there. Use durable woods like fir and mahogany. Don't leave anything sticking out.
Once it's gooped and filled, take paper towels and remove any squeeze out and runs.
Clean up with alcohol so that there is minimal sanding prep for the next step.
This is a quick and dirty fix that allows the carpentry to be kept in place. It will only work if your diagnoses was correct.
Assumes that your beam and bulkhead are in good shape. That the composite under the mast is also OK. And the mast step itself.
It can be done this way, but I don't really recommend it. I would do a classic reconstruction if warrented - and do it right.
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* To control the extent of epoxy being pushed into and through the joint (the juices may run down the cabin side of the beam and bond the cabin door trim )- use cheap polyethylene foam 'backer rod' from your concrete store in the back of the space (seen from the V-berth). It isn't hard rod, it's soft yet firm foam you can stuff into tight places to create a dam. When you push in the wood filler pieces, you want the epoxy pudding to kind of billow out. There's going to be a little waste.
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BUT it's hard to know exactly what you got there without some photos. Good luck.
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