I've been trying to take out the broken arrowhead. You're right, doesn't seem to be a rod. But, the arrowhead won't twist out. Do you have to remove the casting at the front of the boom?
Thanks all.
I hope the old boom lasts till haulout time in December. I just can't get motivated to do boat repairs during sailing season.
Last edited by commanderpete; 10-15-2003 at 11:43 AM.
Yes, the boom end fitting must be removed to get at the reefing assembly.
I envy you Pete. You and your rub rails
C'pete,
WOW, another stirring shot, 10/14/03.
It's not eye-candy. Is it soul-candy?
Some of the best sailing in the Fall. I'm glad to have the mainsail back. I couldn't keep up with this Tartan with just the genoa. Could have been a whole different story otherwise.
Tony, I will write up the rubrail story. But first I had to test the rubrails by bashing into assorted docks and pilings. Strictly for research, of course.
goosneck help
I recently had damage to my pearson ariel. Among many things, I need to replace the "eye" at the end of my boom. I've read the postings, checked out rigrite, but am uncertain which actual part I need to order. The circum of the boom is 9.5" which makes me believe I need parts for the D-Section gooseneck. Can I replace the "eye" only? or do I have to replace that whole piece?
For whatever it is worth, I replaced my goosneck fitting (broken as a result of a less than spectacular flying jibe in turbulent seas). I was ripped off for the cost but at least I got the part. The rigger at the marina charged me two cases of Millers, delivered to his truck. Go to a former Pearson dealer/marina, and have them look through their junk box hidden in a closet somewhere. I believe the gooseneck fitting was common to many boats of the day and age and is a part the former Pearson dealers seem to have lying around. Good Luck
I just got around to working on my boom last night. I had to drill out the screws that held the casting inside the boom. After that, the casting came out quite easily.
Here it is.
The replacement "eye" (arrowhead) looks to be rigrite part # PP-B2. The measurements match up.
You can easily replace just the arrowhead.
I'm going to replace the whole casting, once I figure out which one I need.
I don't need the spring-loaded roller-reefing feature. But, I think it might help to absorb shock when I crash jibe.
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Pearson...on_D_Boom.html
Great Info. Thanks. That info goes into my valuable vendors book.
Thanks for the tips and info on the boom end parts. My boom lives outside my back door instead of on the boat, so after reading the posts here I had a look at it.
To me the 338 boom is more EGG shaped in cross section than the Kenyon diagram, which is eliptical. The pointy end of the egg being the groove on the upside. And the boom OD measures 3.5" X 2.375". 3 1/2 X 2 3/8.
Is this just me being too picky again or is my boom an after market item? The castings at either end look pretty good, but given that old cast aluminum wants to crystalize, I think replacing them and having them for backups is the way to go.
Does anybody elso have a boom like 338's?
I would also like to replace the boom attachment on the mast track. While it looks good, it doesn't seem as robust as the boom fitting and it is held on by corroded fastenings thru thr track. Grateful for any comments.
You're right ebb.
The boom profile is more like that of the Rig Rite #3522 or #4025. But, the size is different. Unfortunately, you need an exact match.
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Pearson...son_Booms.html
I'm just going to replace the arrowhead for now.
I spoke to Roger at D & R, they don't have anything.
Commander Pete: You must have a virus in your computer. There is a little sailboat underneath your name and the sails appear to be luffing violently - unless it is only a software glitch.
One note of caution about the gooseneck, based on my experience two years ago. In a flying jibe I experienced, with a preventer to hold the boom down, the gooseneck was the part that gave way, fortunately. I fear that if the gooseneck had not given way, the boom could have been broken, fittings pulled out, sail could have been torn or whatever, but there could have been substantial damage. I could get along with a broken goosenect until I could get it repaired, but the other alternatives would have made my life getting home much more difficult.
The moral of that experience, as I see it, is to keep the gooseneck the weekest link - don't make a gooseneck out of stainless. If anything is going to break, have it be the gooseneck.
Yes, I know your are not supposed to do flying jibes- but for we types that are drinking a beer (and/or reading a good book) when we should be watching the sail..........
Capt. Theis makes a very interesting point there about the goose neck being the 'weakest link' in a boom saving scenario. I hope to read other comments on this point.
Admiral Bill on the mast renovation thread mentions a article in the Mar/Ap 04 issue of Good Old Boat on a small boat boom refit using a more modern (but recycled) boom and parts. The writer used an octagonal section boom for his upgrade replacing his nice rounded (and bent) one.
His nasty accident was directly related to moving end boom sheeting to mid boom. The load was spread out with three spaced apart blocks on the boom - but the bails were bolted THRU the boom. The writer thinks this substantially weaken it. Not so sure the holes were at fault.
Has anybody thought of using around the boom straps? You'ld have to cut into the groove part of the extrusion, of course. One way would be to cut slots through the base of the groove, slip in the strap, bend it to shape and hold it in place with 5200. Could even create a dip in the top of the strap so that it would sit down into the groove to better ease the bolt rope thru, if that was a problem. Just thinking out loud!
The aluminum end castings:
If someone had old ones in good shape, couldn't they be used as patterns to make new ones of cast almag?
Plain aluminum parts can be machined out of billets, if you wanted to replace a broken eye, probably in a home shop. But an experienced welder would be more difficult to locate. It must be possible to trust some aluminum welding - the custom motor shops do it all the time.
Ballenger welded together 338's new masthead 'crane.'
Last edited by ebb; 03-27-2004 at 06:13 AM.
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