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Thread: Exterior Wood Finishes

  1. #61
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    Sep 2001
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    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    Nice looking wood there Willie. Are those teak coamings?

    My biggest problem with varnishing is getting the weather to coincide with my free time. I'm always trying to slap on a few coats in early April. The weather is cold and raining, or threatening to rain. If I followed the manufacturer's guidelines I would never get the job done. Once the tape goes on the clock starts ticking. Even good tape can be hard to remove if you leave it on too long.

    So, I've been known to push the envelope. I've found that if I get over 50 degrees the varnish will be O.K.. I've been surprised by the rain more than once too. As long as the varnish has an hour or two to skin over the rain won't hurt it.

    Don't try this at home, your mileage may vary.

    Laying on the varnish goes quickly. Everything else seems to take time---getting down to the boat, rolling out the supplies, taping off, setting up etc.. Once the brush hits the varnish it goes quick, or it should.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Larchmont, NY
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    Bungs and Bolts

    Hoping I can get the remainders of some of the old screws which just twisted off in the removal process out of there before I start stuffing them with mahogany. Thanks, Theis.

    First the screws, then the bungs - scraped, not sanded.

    The schooner looks great, Mike. Congratulations. No wonder you're on top of so much of this stuff. I'm going to bed the coamings with Dolfinite when I put them back in.

    Just for the record, I was talking to the Epiphanes guy today about thinning and they pronounce it Epi-faness (Dutch).

  3. #63
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    Jan 2005
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    Larchmont, NY
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    coamings

    One more question - when varnishing the coamings are y'all doing one side then the other or standing them on edge so they are vertical and then varnishing? How does either one affect the application of the varnish?

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    Good question, one i had, but was afraid to ask!
    What i did, was hang them by wires, via a screw in each end in the bottom edge. Not saying it worked the greatest, or was the best way, but couldn't come up with a better idea! That way i could do both sides, all the way around at one time. It still will run, especially from the holes. Have to be careful brushing around them not to fill em up, then it runs down when you're gone. And maybe a few runs don't really matter until the last couple coats. You'll have to clean the varnish out of the holes too, if they get too much.

    It's interesting. I tried laying them flat first, doing one side then the other. You get a mess on the bottom side. I did anyway. Good luck, let me know what you come up with for future reference!
    \
    Going sailing. Still like summer here. Gonna be ugly in August i'm afraid.

    ~ _/) ~
    wet willieave maria

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Hampton Roads Va.
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    Leave them attached to the boat and use blue, green or silver fine line masking tape . I find that much easier . The silver tape costs more but can last upwards of 2 weeks in the sun and rain , the green is not quite as good and the blue is good for 2 or 3 days if there is no dew and no rain.
    Never ever by cheap tape , not worth the mess .

  6. #66
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    Jan 2005
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    Larchmont, NY
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    Glad I asked. The coamings are already off the boat - had to take the old finish all the way down and there is a little filling to do on some punky wood at one end (still looking for the recommended laquer based wood putty). So I guess I will hang them. Thanks Willie.

    Mike - I am an inch away from placing an order on a "Goodwin Spec" Tohatsu 6hp - but Nissan is telling the dealer that they don't offer a 6.5 pitch prop for this model. Do you have a # (like for the vertical pull elbow fitting) for this prop or did you have yours changed?

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Hampton Roads Va.
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    You have to get the prop as an extra or spare prop , they wont ship it as standard equip . The vertical elbow is a Nissan Part , my dealer installed it for me about a month after I got the motor . I'll have to look for part #'s , they are in the paperwork .

    BTW, The tape is silver , blue, green in order of preference , I switched the blue and green ,the green is same day use the blue is 48 or 72 hr and the silver has been known to work for weeks and still come right off .

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    McHenry, IL, but sail out of Racine WI
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    626
    Mike:

    I had thought your first impression was correct - green lasted longer than the blue but then looked at the 2005 WEST catalog and revised my ways, as you did. But, to my surprise, blue is no longer blue and green no longer green. Each color has varieties - although it is true that blue can be left on longest. I could not find the silver listed.

    On page 434 and 435 of the 2005 catalog is a good summary of the qualities of the various tapes.
    Last edited by Theis; 03-18-2005 at 05:33 AM.

  9. #69
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    Sep 2001
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    Hampton Roads Va.
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    821

    Post Tape

    According to 3-M ;
    Silver is good up to a month ;
    bright blue is good up to 7 days ;
    bright green is for non-critical paint masking , not for extended outdoor use.
    Fine Line ( the other green ) is easy to stretch and tear for critical color separation , not for exrended outdoor use.

    That has been my experience also, I use mostly blue .
    High heat, sunlight and humidity reduces the exposure times .

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    McHenry, IL, but sail out of Racine WI
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    626
    Do you have any experience with tape from prior seasons? For example, the bright blue. Does it age in any way - particularly with regard to the 7 days? The stuff seems to work, but I am questioning whether it dries hard after a couple days - perhaps my observations are not accurate.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    A recent issue of Practical Sailor had a review of tape.

    I've got that issue around here somewhere......

    I remember they liked good old electrical tape. I'm going to give it a try.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Larchmont, NY
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    Thanks, Mike. I have the elbow part number from one of your old postings. I'll work with the dealer on the prop.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Scarborough, Maine
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    1,439
    Wow, great thread! I'm already invested in Epiphanes, but I was curious if anyone has used tung oil on their brightwork, specifically the marine version of Waterlox?
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    I've seen this product mentioned from time to time- Le Tonkinois.

    Organic and non-stinky

    http://www.tarsmell.com/index.html

  15. #75
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    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    Great! The price is right too.

    A coppla notes: Cetol (which has been described as looking exactly like Cetol on your coamings) has a lighter less orange version now. (Uncured) Cetol will melt polysulfide into a sticky mess, so if you're using that for bedding or topping off the bedding compound, you have a small problem.

    Any of the traditional varnishes can be removed with a heat gun. I'm not sure about Cetol but two part synthetic finishes like Bristol cannot. While they will last longer, once water gets underneath, like on the top edge, you will have a peeling problem. You will have to sand down to bare wood and feather out.

    Where the winches bases were and at the rabbet in the front are plateaus of mahagony on 338s old coamings. Sanding prep and varnish jobs over the decades have worn these coamings thin! Wipe on varnishes look like a good way to go. Has been pointed out here that the coamings are a major element in the esthetics of the A/Cs. Might be no substitute for the real thing: spar varnish.

    I'm a believer in priming mahogany with penetrating epoxy, maybe teak too. It is said that laying on your first coat of varnish over not quite cured epoxy will bond the varnish to the wood. Seems like a good idea because the varnish begins breaking down at the wood interface. You need to use a varnish that has UV filters in it to protect the epoxy! Seems that if you go with this system you better NOT skip maintenance or you'll be taking it all off.
    Again.
    Last edited by ebb; 01-21-2007 at 09:51 AM.

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