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Thread: Ave maria #350

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    Ave maria #350

    Thought I'd see if this will work. Yeah, nice photo of a blue tarp. Let's go sailing!
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    wet willieave maria

  2. #2
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    Feb 2003
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    Central Illinois, 9 mi. South of Decatur
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    Willie,
    Saw on the Weather Channel a few days ago that you had some real heavy snowfall out there and your pic. proves it. I second your statement "let's go sailing"; how about we make it someplace warm!
    Jim

  3. #3
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    Aug 2003
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    more snow!

    I'm thinking Baja is nice this time o' year. More snow, 16''out in yard now. And cold!! supposed to be near 0 tonight. More snow on the way too! Here's a shot of my current project/research. Open to ideas. Trailing edge of keel inside shoe needs some repair also --if anyone has done this, please send HO's and advice. thanks!
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    wet willieave maria

  4. #4
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    Willie,
    I take it that this is the shoe off of your Ariel and the interior of the shoe has partially been eroded by electrolysis; or is this the one that you found on eBay?
    Are our shoes held on by five fasteners as suggested by your photo showing five holes?
    I placed an anode on my shoe last season for insurance and could'nt wait to see it this fall when we hauled. I'm not even in a hot marina and our anode has really been pitted and eroded. Will change again in the spring before we launch.
    Jim

  5. #5
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    Burrrrrrrrrrr

    Found the shoe from an ad in 'Good old Boat'. Thanks Brian! From a Vanguard. Looks good to me. The part missing is the trailing edge of keel, about 2''inside shoe. Still has 3 good mounting holes. Was attached with bronze pins, peened over on the ends. Trailing edge had some type of fairing compound?? that came off with old shoe. Any thoughts?
    I'm ready for spring!!!

    Jim: how about a photo of your trailer? Especially the keel channel.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Houston, Texas
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    329
    Willie,

    Someone (probably ebb, apologies if it was someone else) discussed the issue of the missing edge of the keel that fits in the shoe. If I remember the thread correctly, Pearson had a hard time getting cloth/roving pressed completely into the far reaches of the keel during layup, so it wouldn't be unusual for the mold to have some spots containing mostly resin (no cloth or roving). This would make it brittle and, as you mentioned, it could easily break off when the shoe is removed. Sounds like a little bit of laminate work would restore the trailing edge back to good as new so you can properly mount your new shoe with all the mounting holes.
    Kent

  7. #7
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    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    3,621
    you're right, it has been covered adnauseum. But it's muy importante.
    I cleaned up the area of all plain 'crystallized' resin. Did not remove any impregnated fiberglass. Grinded it clear and clean. Kept as much of the indent shape that the shoe fits over as possible.

    Fit the new shoe over the 'heel' to determine where the thru pins would go. Used the hole pattern of the old one. Marked the spaces on the boat where no pins would go. Drilled and screwed in TWO 1/2" bronze lags vertically up into the keel (5 - 6" ?) like dental root canal pins, leaving the last inch to inch and a half exposed. One of the lags was positioned as far aft as possible to get more bite against the weight of the rudder. You want the furthest aft pin to go thru AFT of the bolt. Like you're locking everything together.

    You will have to determine how much of the bolts to leave out by dry fitting the shoe. The more lagbolt into the new repair the better. There isn't much room for all these fastenings. Thought of increasing the surface area of the bolts by including a washer, but for some reason didn't - but there is no reason not to include a washer on one or both bolts. Grind the oxidation off the exposed head and neck of the lags bright.

    Lined the new shoe with saran wrap. Wet out the heel with raw epoxy mix getting it into every nook and cranny, including the bolts. Wiped it off, mostly. Mixed up enough mishmash (mixed epoxy, then chopped strand, then silica - in that order) stiff enough to pack into the estimated volume around the exposed bolts. Do a good job packing the keel surface with material. You want to seat the new shoe into the old indent, without having the mix sag off the top of the repair or the bolts. Used a bottle screw from the ground to hold it in place. Would expect some squeeze-out.

    Depending on how much heel you have to replace, you may have to jig the new shoe into position viz the rudder shaft hole. Or even to center it on the boat. But at this point you are just repairing the keel. Once the repair is set, knock the shoe off, remove the plastic. You'll now be able to reposition the shoe exactly where you want it. A little grinding if you have to move it forward, some filling if aft. You'll also fill in any spots or small holes you missed with more mm at this time. The main strengthening has been done.

    Remount the shoe dry and drill for the pins, 5200 the shoe back on, let it set, using dowels to hold it in place. Don't let anybody tell you to use a lesser product than 5200 - this fitting does a lot of work and should be as solid as you can make it! Let it set. Then goop the holes, drive the pins, and peen with a ballpeen hammer. [Make sure the rudderpost is parallel to the keel the same measure all the way down to the shoe. I used a dead straight 1" dowel in the bushing at the top of the rudder tube, that reached to the corresponding hole in the shoe.]

    Silicone bronze soft rod is hard to find. Used regular silicon rod that was difficult to peen into the chamfers (countersinks) on the holes thru the shoe. Very minor chamfers, less than you'ld do for a flathead screw. If the rod is hard you'ld never fill the cavity. Experiment first with the peening. Used C-clamps and flat bar to have something to bang against.

    That's one way to do it. Good luck! The shoe on the A/C holds all the weight and action of the rudder. I think 338's new heel and shoe will last awhile.
    Last edited by ebb; 01-07-2004 at 05:01 PM.

  8. #8
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    thanks!

    Amazing how much info. is here--digging it up is the key. A lot in the gallery section. More now! Thanks Ebb.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    LOOKING FOR KOKANEE, ARIEL #123

    Or Larry Snyder, who is mentioned on page 64,65. Says he trailered her in Oregon, and had the hinged mast step. Would like to take a look at it. Or anyone else's setup that has gone that route. Thanks
    wet willieave maria

  10. #10
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    Feb 2003
    Location
    Central Illinois, 9 mi. South of Decatur
    Posts
    63

    Hinged step

    Bill,
    I'm going to have a hinged step made since no one seems to have one on the shelf ready to go. I'm planning on using 1/8" SS, bolt holes will be slotted vertically, sides will be 90 degree bends. When I get my final pattern ready I'll send you a copy.
    Jim

  11. #11
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    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    ARIEL #350

    THOUGHT I'D GIVE THIS A TRY.
    Would love to hear comments, thoughts, suggestions...
    Ever seen one with a little bow spirit?
    Here she sit's before I showed up.
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    Last edited by willie; 02-04-2004 at 05:25 PM.

  12. #12
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    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    197

    Unhappy

    Then we went on a trailer.
    Sorry about the quality, this one's from the scanner.
    And sorry about the size, thought I had it fgured out, guess not!
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  13. #13
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    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    Then we crunched the rudder shoe. Heard about that I think!
    So here's another scanned one, on the ferry ride. We were gonna sail, but weatherman said 50+ knots for the day. Went to plan B. Or was it C? oh well. $123.00 for the ride, with Oregon discount.

    Note the water line, with yamaha 9.9
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  14. #14
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    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    450 miles later, we're back on the ranch, that's the 'snowed in Ariel' of eariler post. Here's a couple of the interior for fun.
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  15. #15
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    v berth. needs some work.
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