Wood Trim on the Commander

[John]

It being Saturday here in NE and the usual rain about to start, I have been contemplating, the trim around the cabin entry. It's appearence needs some attention now that the coamings have been refinished.

It appears that the drop boards are held by a milled piece that extends about 2 inches over the fiberglass lip of the cabin inside and out, and is held by screws to the cabin. Well, actually there are several pieces but I have not taken anything apart yet. Has anyone removed this trim for refinishing? It would appear that removal would be the best way to handle this but I would like to avoid having to make all new trim.

John
Valhalla
Commander No 284

[Mike Goodwin]

If you are concerned about appearence, you may want to replace it all. It is next to impossible to get a visual match to the old wood.
Replacing all of it is no big deal nor great financial burden. I have done many on various boats and it always looks better when the wood is matched up. Walnut looks great and is cheaper than teak , it holds up better than mohogany and nearly as well as abused teak.
Use the old pieces as patterns for the new. $30 should cover the cost of the wood . Now all you need is a table saw, a sander, drill and bits and some varnish to seal it all up.

[Mike Goodwin]

There is no need to take it out to just refinish the trim. Tape it all off before sanding so you dont get the glass too. A $39 Porter-Cable random orbital sander will make quick work of the old finish ( use 80 grit 1st ) .

[commanderpete]

I've removed that wood. The job is more delicate and time consuming than might appear.

On the Commander, there's about 15 seperate pieces of wood held on by about 40 screws. The screws are soft bronze. The slots of the screws are probably all gunked up and the head may have been sanded down a bit. Its hard to get a grip on alot of the screws and you can gouge up the soft wood in the process.

Some of the screws are hidden. You only see them when you remove other pieces of wood. There was also some sealant used behind the wood. Some pieces were stuck on real good. You need to carefully pry the wood off so as not to crack it. If you've missed a screw you'll split the wood for sure.

Better off leaving the wood in place. Go easy sanding the runners where the boards go. You don't want to make the wood any thinner or the boards will fit more loosely.

[Sprite]

John,

If you look for lumber marine grade for trim etc. This might
help you with your quest and it's pretty local maybe 45minutes
without traffic Boulters Lumber in Somerville they have all kinds
of marine grade lumber plywood etc. They also have floors etc
for boats.


Captain John

PS their website is http://www.boulters.com

[Sprite]

The website address above is wrong.
this the correction.

Captain John

[Sprite]

Boulters Plywood is http://www.boulterplywood.com/
its address is 24 Broadway Somerville,MA (617) 666-1340

Captain John

[John]

Captain John,

Thanks for the tip. I just glanced at their web site and saw possible solutions to several things...And in my backyard so to speak.

John

Valhalla

[Sprite]

John,

If you get the opportunity go down and take a look at the store. The place is a whole in the wall. But they have different types
of teak all kinds of wood for marine use. They can cut it.
Their staff can tell you what people are using today. They have veneers plywood ,planking and wood set up and ready to be used for the cabin sole.

Captain John

P.S sorry to sound like an add but definite a great resource
in our own back yard.