+ Reply to Thread
Page 32 of 32 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32
Results 466 to 471 of 471

Thread: rudder discussions

  1. #466
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    459
    Ebb,

    Actually I did make some videos of my self steering system, which feature studio narration and background music, I cannot post those on-line for various reasons. I have used two of them in some for the classes that I teach. I could potentially share one or more of those videos with you in a Zoom session.

    However I built a web page devoted to the subject. The URL for that page is: http://www.solopublications.com/sailariq.htm
    The photos are small to preserve band width, but the narrative explains how to build such a system. If you would like, I can send larger versions of some of the photos to you by e-mail.

    Back to rudders, I understand your point. I merely wished to say thatI have not felt a need to alter the original location and/or design of tiller.

    My motor is clamped on the riser (motor mount) in the lazarette, but the handle does not protrude forward through the small front hatch aft of the tiller post. By the way, I installed a permanent louvered vent in that hatch to promote air flow in the engine compartment. You can see the bottom edge of that vent in the photo that I posted earlier on this thread. Instead, the motor handle protrudes upward and slightly forward of the large to lazarette hatch. It does not interfere with the traveler or with the tiller in that position. If I choose to do so, I can close the hatch to rest open the end of the motor handle, but I usually don't. Of course I cannot close the hatch fully with the motor running. After I shut the motor down, I just fold the handle back and then close the hatch.
    Scott

  2. #467
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orinda, California
    Posts
    2,293
    Outboard related post moved to outboard thread. It's there, but it's not showing in the thread heading for some reason.
    Last edited by Bill; 12-05-2020 at 11:53 AM.

  3. #468
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    298
    I'm making a replacement 3 plank rudder similar to the one on the boat right now (6" w 4/4 Honduran Mahogany). I've been practicing the construction using pine and a cool used ancient Dowl-It jig I found cheap on Ebay compared to the new ones (lots of bad copies being sold that don't work as advertised. Looks like a company bought Dowel-It, stopped making the old model which has been around since 1940s, and is now charging way more for newer models probably made in China instead of Michigan, and reviews of copies complain they don't center properly, cheaper parts, poor machining of parts) Thinking about 3/8 silicon bronze rod x 16 tapped, mated to 5/8" deep machined holes into the 1" rudder shaft (new straight shaft for my outboard model, and bolts with nuts extending well into board 2 from board 1 next to the shaft. Drifts will connect trailing board 3 to board 2. Drifts at opposing angles to prevent board 3 from loosening up from 2, except for small gaps due to wet/dry cycle) Lots of great info on wooden boat forum on how to do drifts the right way. Anyway, I have two construction questions:

    1. This will be traditional construction. Mahogany + silicon bronze fasteners. No glue, no 3M stuff, nothing rolled on, painted on (except bottom paint), or squeezed on. Current rudder is 50 years+ old, and that's how its built. But to drill the longish holes for the fasteners, I still need to hold the planks together. Could use external straps screwed at the joints before drilling. Could use interior wood glue that would "dissolve" when immersed in the water. I want something that keeps everything in alignment during drilling, but want the planks to be able to move on the fasteners during wet/dry cycles, like my current rudder does. I thought of using clamps, but thy get in the way, won't work on the curved planks because I need to cut the wood to pattern to drill the opposed angle drift holes. What do you folks think about the two options I've come up with, or are there other options?

    2. I'm worried about the alignment of the tapped machined holes on the shaft and my ability to get them aligned with holes drilled in the wood. I admit it: I have mediocre measuring and woodworking skills! If I'm off a smidge, it seems that I won't be able to slide the pieces together without introducing misalignment stress in the wood. So how to make sure that the pieces mate? With through holes in the shaft, I could always start the holes in the wood through the shaft, then finish with the Dowl-It on the rudder. But that kind of defeats the purpose of having "elegant". as ebb says, tapped holes only part way through the shaft, as Tim describes above. The other option I thought of would be to cut small threaded pieces of 3/8" rod, screw them into the tapped holes in the shaft, then align the rudder to the shaft and tap the shaft to leave some marks on the leading edge of the rudder. Am I over thinking this? I just don't want to find out that a hole isn't matched exactly to the shaft holes.
    Last edited by Hull376; 12-18-2020 at 05:45 PM.
    Kent

  4. #469
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    298

    Rudder Construction

    Some pics of pine practice.

    Makes a big difference in how you drill the holes. Wooden Boaters said to drill very slowly don’t use speed bits they wander off and make sure you don’t drill more than a few inches at a time without removing the wood chips. I tried drilling really fast just to see what happens and it doesn’t look very good! But going slowly removing the chips as they recommended gives you straight holes every time. They also recommend using a Dowling jig.

    In the last photo the left two are drifts pounded into undersize holes and the right two are bolts. The holes are about 11 inches
    Attached Images        
    Last edited by Hull376; 12-18-2020 at 03:33 PM.
    Kent

  5. #470
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,584
    Years ago I mailed to the Admiral what I thot is a simplified version
    of making a full length, no prop cut-out, three-board rudder. It
    used the rudder drawings in the Manual. Don't remember why it
    wasn't useful. It used internal threaded rod tapped into the 1"
    shaft stock. Plan could have been redrawn for a two-piece rudder
    shaft.

    Suggest using Honduras mahogany and Everdur, 655 bronze. Silicon
    bronze is readily available, but, of course, we pay a premium price
    for it. Original wood/bronze rudders lasted decades/years in and
    out of the water, drying out, resoaking and working all that time.
    I think using stainless in salt water is asking for trouble.
    Last edited by ebb; 12-20-2020 at 01:34 PM.

+ Reply to Thread

Similar Threads

  1. Upper rudder shaft bushing replacement.
    By Jerry O'Sullivan in forum Technical
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 07-07-2014, 07:44 AM
  2. Zinc me before they sink me.
    By Scott Galloway in forum Technical
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-04-2004, 11:44 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts