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Thread: Leading Lines Aft: Clutch / organizer / Winch Placement

  1. #1
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    Leading Lines Aft: Clutch / organizer / Winch Placement

    I'm going to install some Garhauer clutches and deck organizers as a part of the "leading lines aft" project, and was wondering if Bill or anyone else has who has a similar set-up has any lessons learned to share on placement of the components. That is, clutches, organizers, and a winch for headsail-(no furling for me as of yet) how far in from aft cabin edge, space to winch, how far in are the organizers from the fore edge, and anything else you can think of. I don't want to drill holes more than one time! And Bill, did you use spiffy wooden backing plates on the inside for all of this? I've seen some of the picture posts on this set-up and the overall discussion, but hard to tell the distances between things that would be optimal. Thanks!
    Kent

  2. #2
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    what not to do

    Kent
    I've been thinking some of the same thoughts. One of the previous owners of 113 did lead lines aft but we can use their attempt to highlight what NOT to do. Use turning blocks that have a tall enough reach that the lines don't rub the paint off of the cabin top. If they DO rub the paint off-at least repaint. Also consider putting the winches AFT of the rope clutches. Ours were installed between the organizers and the clutches and I still wonder, ocationally, what the sequence of events were to drop the main. Use backing plates not some under-sized washers which would allow you to overtighten the hardware, crack/crush the headliner and then dallop on some silicone in big hanging goobers.
    Wow, Kent, this has been mildly cathartic-theapeutically-I think I'll go grind some fiberglass!

  3. #3
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    Tony,

    Winch placement, etc. is exactly what I hope to about for the reason's you suggest. Easy to visualize how different set-ups would work, but visualizing versus execution usually entails all kinds of big lies.
    Kent

  4. #4
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    CABIN TOP LAYOUT - STB

    To give you some indicatin of placement options, here is the location for the clutches and winchs on MAIKA'I (Stb side shown).
    Attached Images  

  5. #5
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    BACKING PLATES

    I'm risk averse, so the backing plates are 1"
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by Bill; 05-11-2003 at 04:10 PM.

  6. #6
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    Grab Rails Too

    Note that the backing for the cabin top grab rails are cabin inside grab rails.
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by Bill; 02-07-2006 at 08:50 AM.

  7. #7
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    Bill,

    Thanks loads for the pictures. Really are worth a thousand words. Those aren't backing plates, those are furniture!
    Kent

  8. #8
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    Maine
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    beautiful !!

    Bill,
    Are those barrel bolts in the backing plates? If so, Where did you get them?? Please...

    It looks like you ran screws up through interior grab rail and dead ended screw threads in the grab rail on deck. Is that correct? Or are there invisible plugs in the grab rail on deck?

    Nice!

  9. #9
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    The local chandlery carries a complete supply of barrel nuts, but they sure are not cheap. I believe their supplier is a company called Fasco:

    Fasco Fastener Co Inc
    2041 Clement Ave
    Alameda, CA 94501-1317
    (510)522-4049

    Yes, the screws do go up from inside. You can see one in the liner just past where the grab rail ends (near the winch plate)
    Last edited by Bill; 05-13-2003 at 11:04 AM.

  10. #10
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    Jan 2006
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    I am in the midst of a similar "leading lines aft" project...along with a total winch replacement. I've reviewed about 10 or 15 threads, and I didn't notice many people using Harken gear. I was looking at pair of Harken 16ST self tailers for the cockpit and a #8 on the cabintop, and another #8 to replace the main halyard winch on the mast...after reviewing the sizing that seems about optimum.

    However, I wonder if I'm blowing all that dough anyway, should I spring for a self tailer on the cabin top? I just don't think I'll get the use out of it.

    Has anyone put a self tailing winch on the cabin top, and if so has it been a justified expense?

    Also, do you think #16st's are adequate for the cockpit?

    Chris

  11. #11
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    If you use rope clutches there is no need for a self tailer. 16's should be just fine for primaries.

    A suggestion on winches: try your nautical flea markets. You can often find some very nice winches at 100's less than new. I picked up a couple of chrome Barlow 10's for the cabin top for about $100 bucks each.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjackson
    I am in the midst of a similar "leading lines aft" project...along with a total winch replacement. ... I was looking at pair of Harken 16ST self tailers for the cockpit and a #8 on the cabintop, and another #8 to replace the main halyard winch on the mast...
    Hey Chris, a question from the peanut gallery: if you're leading your lines aft, you probably wouldn't need the mast winch, right?
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  13. #13
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    Bill, If the inner grab rails are opposite the outside rails...
    how are they attached to each other? Are they bolted?
    Nice job.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebb
    Bill, If the inner grab rails are opposite the outside rails...
    how are they attached to each other? Are they bolted?
    Nice job.
    I believe that they may be screwed together since there are no plugs in the outside rails.

  15. #15
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    Jan 2006
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    39
    Mike,
    I'm just a major redundancy nut...a lot of years working in the nuclear power field... My concern is if something gets tangled up, or if a block breaks, locks up or what have you...then I still have the option of working the Halyards from the mast... A new Harken #6 for the mast costs less than $100, so the safety factor seems like money well spent at that price...

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