here are the photos;
here are the photos;
#45 deck
The black is 5200 covering a split in the deck , it felt like a trampoline walking on the STBD side.
Split in foredeck by cowlplate;
The hull had a few dings too!
Another core material that is becoming more common is a polypropylene product called Nida Core.
www.nida-core.com
Several Triton owners have recently used this stuff. It seems to be a good product that creates a stiff deck. I have not used it, but would certainly consider it for the next project.
As with all core materials, though, only time will tell if it is truly the answer or not. One constant in the boating world is that there are few true "miracle" products. The ravages of marine life are tough on almost everything.
Tim
I've heard good things about Nida Core , I used WesCore because I had it left over from a paying job so the price was right .
OK. I am looking into various options for new core material, and how to obtain them. Hoping not to have to drive 70 miles(one way) just to measure for the thickness, do any of you recall the thickness of the material you used? Mike, it looked like that WesCore was one piece, obviously flexible enough to conform to the slight curve of the deck. I am looking at getting nidacore,but that may take a while. If using a plywood, can anyone tell me if it also goes in one piece, or in many smaller pieces? How small? other thoughts? Thanks again!
Ply would be my last choice with balsa coming before it , after all , in some well maintained boats the balsa has lasted 40 years now . The water travels faster through ply .
Go to ;
www.fgci.com
They sell all the cores and will ship anywhere.
Nida-Core comes in 13mm , 16mm & 20mm ;
price ranges from $45 to $58 for 28sf .
I used 9mm & 12mm and had to do some shaving with both .
Nida core is polypropylene. Wes core is what??
I need to do a small, God I hope small, repair under the port lifeline fitting. The foredeck there is too soft. The area is only about 1 foot by 8". of course I have niightmares that the mush is much more extensive, thus the reason for this procrastination, something I am very good at.
If I'm understanding all this, its ok to use epoxy/glass for a small repair but if it is large a core material should be used??
And, bear with me, this repair stuff is new, though I lived aboard for many years and sailed her for many years, I have to say I was spoiled, a real sea princess. Any thing difficult, and my honey did it. And by difficult, I mean if a tool was involved or anything that used 2-parts, solvents, etc.!!!!
Now, I'll see if I have the muster to do what all you are doing. In the meantime, I'm looking for a "Sven" too. But he's no where to be found. But I'm looking hard.
This site documents a recore job from underneath on a San Juan.
http://personal.monad.net/~catamount/Quasar/part1.html
Regarding Core issues, I have replaced core from inside and out,small
areas and large. I have never been able to salvage a large enough piece
of inner or outer skin to be worth the bother of reinstalling. as for the best way to
tackle the job is to go right at it,work fast and with purpose.
With this in mind I feel that the best way to attack the core is from the outside. With
a forty year old balsa-cored boat water intrusion is an inevitable fact of life. To do this
kind of work, with the dust associated with it, inside a small boat is to large a price
to pay for some old, worn down, though original , no-skid texture.
I recommend determining the boundaries of the problem from the inside useing a 1/4"
drill bit and a 1" hole saw for a larger look. Locate the area on the out side by drilling holes through the deck.
Useing a battery powered circular saw make cuts about 1-2" apart over the entire effected
area. Save these strips as they make good epoxy stirrers. With a good heavy scraper, that looks
like a putty knife but with a thicker blade and handle, chisel out the strips with a hammer.
You can go wild, providing you don't damage the inner skin, in the big outdoors, with
gravity as your friend, without physical contortions. The outer skin that you will be rebuilding
will be thicker than the inside layer and therefore a little more expensive. But with the repair time
cut in better than half, due mainly to the working conditions, is negligable.
Now to get your deck pretty again after your core and skin are sanded smooth and fair,
basically a no brainer, paint your deck. Barrier coat can be used here as a high build primer.
It sticks well and forms a tough, waterproof, tie coat. Next you will think about paints.
I initially used single part urethane on my deck. I added sheen reducer and glass balls.
It came out looking good but wore over the five years I've had it.
When I recored my entire cockpit, I had to repaint. I used some left over barrier coat
which was really nice as a hi-build, sandable primer and then finish coated with three coats,
rolled, of Interlux, Inter-Deck. This paint goes on like a dream is already flat and has the grit
in it. The grit is very fine and very effective( see Practical Sailor recent issue). Once you paint,
its easy to go back in from the top again. Once you've done it, top repair, I think you will be
hard pressed to find a good reason to work inside again.
Cheers B.
Commander #215
I did a 2 1/2 foot by one foot triangle on the port foredeck of 376 yesterday afternoon. Was 75 degrees and sunny in Houston--this is our time of year to be outdoors. Anyway, I'll vote for doing the job from the outside. And I have to admit, I also "attacked it" and didn't dwell on the fact that I was sawing into my boat. A friend just did a patch on his J22 from inside, and he said it was awful. I think he has resin in his hair he is trying to pass off as no. 10 strength hair gel. After only doing this once, I thought the toughest part of the job was pulling free the part of the deck that was still dry and attached to the balsa core (about a 3 inch piece). I also used a small 3" battery operated circular saw, several batteries needed for the whole job. Used the 9mm core from GCI, and it was the exact thickness for the foredeck area. I put in an extra layer of cloth on the botton layer since there were a couple of spots that were pretty thin (haven't seen many places on my Ariel where you can find thin fiberglass!). Put the cut-out piece back on top after wetting out the core, and then held it down with a couple of bricks--- first taped off the edges of the cut deck piece and around the cut-out (forgot this step). Maybe its beginner's luck, but its flush. Will have to sand off the excess resin at the cut mark. Again, the hardest part of the whole surgical operation was getting the deck off of the dry core. Otherwise, it wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be, and I'm a fiberglass amature.
Kent
Think how much money you folks saved by doing it yourself.
This guy paid over $8000 to have the work done on a Pearson Flyer. Doesn't even look like the job was that extensive.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dellin...%20Repairs.htm
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