Thanks, here is the info on the pin rails that you requested.
The pin rails function not only as pin rails, but also as a "mast pulpit" to brace yourself against while working at the mast, and as an integral part of the lifeline system. The lifeline system was installed where none had previously existed. No stanchions were used. When I bought the boat there were no lifelines or stanchions. After looking at a few Ariel stanchion installations, I was hesitant to install stanchions on my boat.
The first goal of the project was to design and install a safe and secure lifeline system that could be made of either coated wire or Dacron line. Dacron 3 braided 1/4 inch line was used for this installation. The second goal was to provide a system that would be safe to use for support, and as an attachment point for a safety harness. The third goal was to accomplish goals 1 and 2 without installing stanchions or drilling additional holes through the deck.
The lifeline system is discussed in detail in the technical forum on this website, and on the photo page at my own Ariel website http://www.solopublications.com/sailarip.htm.
The forward upper lifeline system utilizes the pin rails, which are secured to the lower shrouds. The pin rails are made of four pieces of teak: Two side pieces and two end pieces. The sides are bolted together by stainless steel bolts. One of those bolts is an eyebolt at the location of the aft lower shroud. The upper lifeline runs through the eye of that bolt. The rear lower shroud is straddled by bolts that tie the two sides of the pin rail together.
A Pad eye is through bolted through both sides of the pin rail so that the two legs of the pad eye straddle the forward lower shroud and with the nuts in the inward and the pad eye outward. The upper lifeline runs through this pad eye. The pad eye has a stainless steel baking plate. Thus the lifeline is essentially bolted around the forward lower shroud with the teak pin rail serving as a teak spacer. The bolts running through the sides provide compression, which holds the sides together tightly and prevent the pin rail from slipping on the shrouds.
Each side of the teak pin rail has two angled grooves to permit the two shrouds to pass between the two teak sides without holding the teak sides apart. Thus, there is no space between the two sides. The teak end caps are simply screwed to the two sides. All screw holes have been filled with a wood toned semi Permanent wood filler, and the pin rail is finished with Semco Teak Sealer (Natural shade). This lasts about six months between treatments. Preparation for a new Teak sealer treatment involves washing the surface with an abrasive cloth. I seized the shrouds beneath the pin rails with waxed line to further ensure that the rails did not slide downward on the shrouds. The head of the bolts and the nuts are counter sunk, but left exposed to permit adjustment. In nearly two years I have not had to make an adjustment.
Please keep in mind that my entire rig (pin rails, lifelines and all) lowers each time I pass under the bridge on my way to the sea, which is every time I sail. There is some movement of the pin rails from time to time along the shrouds, but this has not been a problem and they are easily adjusted with polite tap of the hand and an adjustment to the seizing.
You can see the pad eye in the attached photo. The wood is about ready to re-seal. The triple-braided spinnaker halyard would be tied off to a pin in the pin rail if I had any pins. By the way: Anyone know where to buy some bronze or stainless steel pins for my pin rail?
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