Halyard Cheek Blocks

[commanderpete]

The main and jib halyards come off the mast at the bottom through cheek blocks screwed onto the mast.

I think the design stinks.

First of all, the blocks are too high. If you use the halyard winch, you get riding turns because the line is led too high to the winch.

Second, the blocks are not angled towards the winch or cleat. My main halyard block is getting all bent and the sheave destroyed.

Instead of replacing it, I'm thinking about a different solution.

On Tony's website:

http://www.geocities.com/anthony_mow...ilboat/rigging

he's got some pictures of a Cal Sailing Club Commander with all sorts of extra rigging.

I kind of like what they did with the main halyard, leading it down to the deck, across, and then straight to the winch/cleat. (It has to go across to avoid the hatch rail)

Of course this does mean drilling more holes in the deck.

Any opinions?

Cheers,

Peter

[Ed Ekers]

Hey Pete, On Pathfinder I have a similar system. The difference on Pathfinder is at the bottom of the mast I mounted a SS plate. This plate sits under the mast. It is cut in a rectangular shape. On all four sides it has dog ears that extend out and up at a forty five degree angles. Each dog ear has five holes where I attach blocks.

On Pathfinder we have eight lines that are led aft to the cockpit ( 2 halyards, two reef lines,cunningham, outhaul). All eight of these pass through blocks that are attached to the plate.

One system that Tony has on his Commander that I really like is the bridge over the hatch. This allows him to mount cam cleats for some of the running rigging and not have to drill more holes in the cabin top. For things like a vang and spinnaker gear it would work out great.

One other system that I have seen that is kinda sexy is to mount track on either side of the base of the mast. You then use the type of block that slides on the track and the blocks are held up with springs. Down side is first there are a number of holes that are needed to mount the track, you only have leads on the sides of the mast and I would think it might be a few extra bucks to by the cars and spring mounted blocks. But it looks cool. Anxious to see what you come up with.........Ed

[Bill]

Maika'i has positions for eight lines leading aft to the cockpit. The sail control lines come off the mast via blocks mounted to mast high enough that the lines travel parallel to the cabin top and directly into deck organizers. No line angle problems. The organizers then lead the line aft into cabin top mounted Gahauer heavy duty rope clutches, past Barient #10 winches and into the cockpit. Bill

[commanderpete]

Thanks Guys,

You got me thinking that someday I might want to add a bunch more lines and might need a more comprehensive system. Maybe I shouldn't approach this piecemeal.

If you have any photos I would sure appreciate a look-see.

[commanderpete]

You might be able to see in this photo the angle the halyards come off the mast.

[commanderpete]

P.S.: Happy Holidays Everybody

[Bill]

Wow, you appear to still have Pearson's original mainsheet control system. A traveler system such as Harken's for small yachts will give you tons of more control over sail shape, etc. The track on #76 is mounted on a teak backing cut to fit the curvature of the deck (and to go over those pads for the blocks on the original system).

[noeta-112]

Bill,

I'm a novice at all of this and I'm sure that I have the original mainsheet control sys on my Ariel. I only have briefly sailed it twice prior to the purchase and found it a bit awkward. You mean to say there is a better way? Please expand on this a bit if you would!! Any pics?

Thanks!

[commanderpete]

The mainsheet control can be modified in a few ways so that you can adjust the main without having to cleat and uncleat it each time.

I see that some people replace the port block with a fiddle block with integral cam cleat. I see these type of blocks on e-bay every once in a while.

I did something different. It's a swivel block with cam base that also swivels. This is mounted where the cleat was.

A traveller is the best method, giving you better sail shape, etc. Plus you get more lines to play with. It's on my wish list. Parts alone cost $300-$400.

Here's what I have

[noeta-112]

Well the pics sure help alot. I see that S.Airing has the fiddle arrangement and now I'm wondering what if the rig on NOETA is original or an add on. I'll take a pic and post it as soon as I get the chance. My main sheet runs from either the port or stbd block to the center of the aft deck (in line with the two blocks) and runs thru a ?cheekblock? and camcleat so the pull is from center.

I've been reading about traveller set-ups and and positioning.
Seems to be 3 options. Not sure if all would work out on the ariel.
Hopefully someone may have had experience with some or all of the set-ups.

1. Even with the end of the boom (spanning the same area as current block setup.

2. mounted on the bridgedeck (flushmount) More downforce on boom central. But would it work here?

3. High mounted on cabin deck over the hatch. This may be too far fwd on the boom for good control or maybe would need 6-7 part block setup for enough power.

Any ideas anyone?

[Bill]

Thought I had a digital photo of the traveler system on Maka'i. Will find and post one soon. I used the Harken small boat traveler with about 3' of track (goes just between the ends of the cockpit combings). It's backed with a teak base that is level on top and conforms to the curvature of the deck on the bottom. The mainsheet controle is on a seperate fitting centered on the lazarette bulkhead about even with the lazarette's deck.

The Harken 4/1 traveler control is terrific. It gives you the power to reposition the travel upwind without having to luff the main to reduce the stress on the car.