It's difficult. Guys who talk about it on forums never want to do it again!
They say do it 'incrementally'. Start at an end, fasten, then bend, fasten, etc.
If you are going to do it this way, C-clamp (2 or 3) the end with 6" to 10" long pad sides (like below here) to totally immobilize the T-track.
Having two of these. One for the end, and a second as a clamp moving forward might be all that's needed to mount the track....
One thing to be aware of is that when you have successfully created a cold curve in something as stiff as T-track,
the ends of any metal strip stay straight - impossible to curve. Have to try and fool it.
So thinking about this: I'd have the track a foot or so longer than necessary at both ends. May not have to.... but that will allow the extra track to be temporarily fastened to the rail creating a fair curve in the track that is to remain.
After it's caulked & installed, cut the ends to spec. Add extra closer together fasteners at ends, as keepers. Also install track END stops.
Something to think about:
The rail essentially has to have all holes drilled and chamfered before the CAULKING goes on. How can we do that?
Can see long 3/4" hardwood strips on both sides of the track - and a whole bunch of C-clamps.
First visualize BENDING THE WHOLE TRACK into final position between two temporary walls of oak.
Radius the bottom interior edge of the oak strip on deck to get it to lay flat against the fiberglass rail.
Because the inside of the toerail leans out about 25°, this strip has to be milled into a truncated profile (wider on top) to give the clamp heads some flat and equalized landing - otherwise they'll slip or pull the strips out of line. Another reason to stabilize the wood strips with carpet-tape.
The top of the rail in relation to the outside is approximately 90°. Might need two people to do the initial clamping
Can see carefully sized smaller strips of the same wood that are slipped under the T on both sides
- and are actually used to center and stabilize the T-track on top of the toe-rail.....in the clamping process.
Maybe this is too complicated, maybe not. The actual bending curve of the rail along the A/C cockpit is not too radical.
Whatever style of track, it's still going to be very stiff and quite long.
But T-track is being bent onto many boats, which has no doubt been taken into account by the manufacturer. Not THAT stiff!
Maybe it's left partially annealed to take a set. Imco, our toe-rail curve is too mild for track to keep a bend. It'll spring back when released.
Manufacturers sometimes prebend curves for customers.
T-track, oak strip and spacers is a lot of stuff to keep organized while bending.
Might also carpet tape the wood spacers onto the underside of the T, attempting to keep them attacht.... so that after the holes are drilled AND chamfered (extremely important for waterproofing and keeping salt out), the clamp-up can be disassembled AND put back together again after the caulking is applied, have to see. Clamped back into a fair curve, matched to the new fastener holes. Using butyl tape means you can have squeeze-out without making the disaster polysufide promises. Butyl sealant tape is already 'cured' and squeeze-out comes off clean.***
Keep the track extra long until after complete install. Then cut, dull edges, and buff.
One thing the A/C has going for them is that the rail is bent to a single plane.
Fiberglass** carpet tape is a temporary stickum. Difficult to remove, but it does come off..... Keeps wood from slipping.
Probably have a problem with what you are going to do with the cove inside the rail - how and where to attach nuts and washers. If your track is going aft by the cockpit, you might have to hire a midget to get under there to backup the fasteners properly.
The top of the rail on A338 is pretty thick. You may only going require a regular washer inside there.
Most forum responders say they never had a problem with that. INSIDE of the toerail on top is curved. A thin washer will bend a little when tightened, creating a nut lock. Fastner holes must drill in dead center top of the toerail.
Others have blocked the backup out to make a wider pad for nuts, longer bolts, and better access.
A simple job made complicated??? Maybe it'll go on 'incrementally'. Try it that way first.
Just throwing this out to get discussion going.
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*The extra longs can temporarily be fastened to the rail FROM THE TOP by tapping for machine screws. The toerail is (on A338) at least 1/4" thick and will tap coarse thread for MS. May not need to do this, but possible. Fill holes later. Maybe tempted to use this as lagging to attach T-track. NO!
**double-sided FIBERGLASS CARPET TAPE refers what the adhesive is backed with . Cheap hardware stores don't stock it. Fiberglass allows tape to be pulled off after you've used it. hardly ever all of it at once - but you can't pull the cheaper stuff off at all. Naptha cleanup. Put it on in pieces, not strips.
***3M makes a very expensive 3/32"h X 1/2"w black butyl tape expressly for installing T-track called WEATHERBAN (Jamestown). Squeeze-out using this stuff will be minimum
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