Looking good!
Start up by the shrouds and work your way aft , easier with a second set of hands . I need to get fired up on #45 , good weather and free time do not come together .
I was talking to a friend of my in Jacksonville on Fri. , I might be down your way in a few weeks. Let's get together for a beer . Are you on the Neuse ?
Mine are in 2 pieces, I did the genny tracks first , then decided to move the jib tracks out to the rail so I just stacked them end to end . You will need a deep thinwall socket for setting the nuts up in the toe rail.
I splashed Commmander #105 on April 23, minus the mast and jib track. Being new to sailing and boat repair I am in some need as to where I should place the jib track and how long it should be, while I have every confidense in the toerail that I rebuilt I wish to replace the new tracks inboard of the toerails. I will secure the new rails to aluminum strips 3" wide under the side decks for strength and peace of mind. The mast is another story I am having a new masthead sheave made in aluminum to the same dimensions as the old because I know no better, could the old sheave be replaced with a smaller one? Lastly the old original tiller broke in half as I was motoring around the dock in some wind and tide, good old duck tape and a c clamp came to the resue. On the way home I purchased a new tiller at good ol' West Marine for $169.00 untill I can make my own.I don't think very much of the laminated tillers or the finish on them. Also I am waiting to have the rigger make some new standing rigging for the mast as some of the old ones have burrs from the boat the rode up and down on them in the storm.
Last edited by Robert Lemasters; 04-25-2005 at 03:21 PM.
Robert, the photos at posts #3 and #10 in this thread (p.1) should give you a good idea of where to place your track inside the toe rail. Sheave size sounds right to me. As noted in the manual, I insterted a bearing into the original phonelic shieve. Real tough stuff.
Jib Tracks
Just removed my old bronze jib tracks and will replace them with Schaeffer racing tracks at 4" centers. They are mounted on the toerail, but the 1/4-20 FH mounting screws are THREADED into the toerail and a bent washer/nut is used as a backer. Slick, strong and no leaks in 40 years. Someone had their thinking cap on! Also, the first foot or so of the tracks are straight on both ends. Like steam bending wood, the ends are impossible to bend in situ. With longer bolts, the old track might even make a nice backer plate, full length. Nah, on second thought......
Last edited by Dan Maliszewski; 04-25-2005 at 07:24 PM. Reason: icon placement
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Just now today we finished fitting the Schaeffer racing tracks onto the toerails of Adele M. We used the old threaded holes in the toerail, sort of , as not all of them lined up, and put washers and nuts up under. For the ones that did not line up, I redrilled them with a #7 drill bit and threaded them for 1/4-20 threads. I coated the threads with polysulphide caulk.
Bending was easier than I thought it would be. Started at the forward end, put in one bolt at a time gently bending the track to stay centered above the rail, drilling and tapping as necessary, and secured the end caps with 12-24 FH screws. The track is surprisingly flexible. Also put in a harken traveler, set on varying height pvc tubing stubs, which worked great.
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You might want to consider more than just washers under the track. With the original Pearson issue track, I have had both pulled through the deck,taking the deck with them. Today I have a stainless plate, about an inch wide, extending beyond the length of the track.
The principal problem occurs when the car is at either end of the track. The strain can pop the first through hole, then the second - right down the line.
My tracks are on the deck, so the problem may be worse than on the toe rail, but it is still something to think about. Particularly, with the minimal width of the toe rail, the washers can't be that big, I would imagine.
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