3/8" balsa for most areas. 3/8" G10 at the stanchions, bow and chainplates.
3/8" balsa for most areas. 3/8" G10 at the stanchions, bow and chainplates.
Work on Bisquit continues. I took a break to do the Transpac and the boat I sail on dropped out. - something about Hurricane Delores and insurance. Kinda glad we didn't go. It is a slow one this year. That is a story for another time. Back to the grind -- literally. Now that the deck is faired, it is time to move to the cabin top. I replaced the core under the mast step with solid glass and redesigned the mast step in solid glass. I also replaced the core on the cabin top at the starboard cockpit. I plan to run the halyards aft to clutches and a winch on both sides. The pt side is dry so need to re core. I'll lay glass tomorrow and start the fairing of the cabin top. My goal is to have primer on the deck by the end of the month. We will see how it goes.
I'm impressed with how fast you seem to be making progress. In my younger days things did not take as long as they do these days but once the body passes the 60 mark you tend to slow down. From what I can see your work looks good. Keep going you'll be done before you know it.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
Thanks. You have set the bar really high.
I decided to prep the hullsides as well as the deck before I started to prime her. The old paint came off easily with a razor blade. I filled and faired all of the miscellaneous scratches and gouges. The shape is good.
Ready for primer
One coat of primer on the deck
Two coats of IP2000E on the deck and hull. This weekend I will add 3 more coats of primer then sand and prep for the Awl Grip system.
Cast Aluminium Fittings
Bisquit had all of the original (Danish I think) cast aluminium fittings on the deck. It would have been cheaper to just replace them in stainless but I want to maintain as much of the original hardware as I can. I sent the bronze stuff (stemhead, chainplates, tiller head, lifeline deck plates etc... ) out to be re-plated. I'm still waiting for those. After spending a few hours with mixed results trying to polish the aluminium fittings myself I found a shop outside of Chicago that specializes in metal polishing. I got the fittings back the other day. They are beautiful. Now I have to protect them. I don't want to clearcoat them. That would create a maintenance nightmare and it would wear off the cleats almost immediately. I'm talking to a guy about Bright Anodizing. I'm hoping he can help. Does anyone have any experience with this process?
Also, There is a 3" deck plate not pictured but restored. It looks like a Dorade vent may screw into it. Is anyone familiar with this fitting?
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote