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Thread: C-025 Bisquit

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    cockpit drain exits

    Well, depends I think on where you're taking the boat.

    Doing it right with upgrade thru-hulls and seacocks is best I think.

    Your fore-n-afts look too close to easily use the existing hole for new thru-hulls.
    But maybe you can because the photo shows a pretty clean job by Pearson.
    You'd be slicing and grinding off the stubs tight to the hull.
    If Pearson didfn't fudge the holes thru too much, they might be opened up for
    screw in thru-hulls. Assume the glass pipe was not tabbed through the hole but
    is inside the hull.
    But it doesn't look like you have room for seacock bases or the smaller conversion
    base that allows use of ballcocks. Pictures here, don't know how to access.
    I think Grocco finally came up with them, bases to allow inline ballvalves to be
    use as seacocks. Good idea but a lot more plumbing connections.

    If you decide to use an inline ball valve maybe it will be plastic. There are some
    robust ball valves out there. But myself would have trouble trusting them.

    Did finally use marilon in Littlegull.

    Pearson used fiberglass tube not pipe size stuff. I don't know what you got there?
    1 1/4", 1 1/2"? You could locate a couple inlines, which usually have female ends,
    and just maybe you could glue them in. But then what? Male end inline ball valves
    *could be connected to the fiberglass stub with a very short very stout piece of hose.

    Overkill would be to securely bolt traditional seacocks to the hull. And use thru-
    hulls that screw into the seacock from outside. That way everything can easily be
    taken apart and replaced if ever necessary. (I've pointed out elsewhere, that if
    the seacock is planted on epoxy glued backing blocks, you've using bronze bolts
    to fasten it to the hull, the thru-hulls are secondary, because if you unscrew them
    with the bedded seacock in place, the hole won't leak....unless the valve is open!)
    Expensive. But classy and increases the value of your biscuit there!!

    Are you going to insure your investment?

    If your choice is bronze or marilon ball valves, you'll need room to turn them onto
    threaded base or conversion base.
    *McMasterCarr has some glass-filled polypropylene double union inline valves. Double
    unions, if they remain waterproof, would allow easy replacement of the valve body
    without disturbing anything else in the installation. www.mcmaster.com/#ball-valves/
    Problem, of course, is that there always will be water in the hose... and valve.


    However, there are a bunch of our boats out there still floating, probably a little
    apprehensively, on Pearson's original cheap installation. Which, if you invested in
    some real nice expensive underwater plastic spiral reinfirced rubber hose (Trident)
    and 100% s.s. hose clamps...could always get back a little later to do it better!!

    Well, cheap.. but no gizmos to clog, no valves to freeze up. Gooed argument for
    simplicity. And a couple of those new plastic cone plugs in case the hose pulls off.
    and a real easy to find mallot to whack em.
    Last edited by ebb; 03-07-2016 at 09:50 AM.

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