I think I'll cut and grind them flush and install screw in throughulls and ball valves. More work but better piece of mind.
I think I'll cut and grind them flush and install screw in throughulls and ball valves. More work but better piece of mind.
The engine is in and all the related systems are installed. I am putting the cockpit floor back together right now.
Some details on the engine choices:
Yanmar 2GM
Racor 120 A Fuel Filter
Groco ARG 75 water strainer
Volvo dripless stuffing box
Yanmar Type B panel with tack
10 gallon Tempo marine fuel tank
Teleflex single lever shifter
3 bladed bronze fixed prop with shaft zinc
The cutlass bearing is set in the stern tube and held with two set screw/Helicoil combos.
Time to get rolling on the mast and boom. Going with a tides marine mainsail track, and a new furlex furler. Oh yea - I put the new name on today.
That's what we did. The peace of mind is worth the effort. You've spared no expense elsewhere on GG so it makes perfect sense to go that route. I used 1 1/2" but 1 1/4" might have been a better fit.Originally Posted by Bisquit
My home has a keel.
Working on the rig now. I stripped all the hardware off and and modifying the masthead to accept modern exit boxes. All of the halyards will be run internally.
I welded in some aluminium bar stock into the existing sheave box opening, ground it flush and then fitted some really nice Harken sheave boxes I scavenged from a Mumm 36 rig that got on the wrong side of a semi truck. In fact, 70 - 80% of the hardware on this boat has been scavenged from totaled boats or masts. The remainder I picked up on e-bay. Getting the hardware off was a barrel of laughs. I think I broke 5 or 6 impact driver bits even though I soaked all of the fasteners with PB blaster and Kroil. I removed the external bronze main track but will reinstall it after the mast is painted and slide a Tides Marine Strong System over it. I hope to get primer on the mast, boom & spin pole tonight.
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