rudder bearing source

[ebb]

Agree with Bill, rico,
The 338 cap is as smooth inside as low grade corrosion can be. No flanges or grooves, which is not to say the Pearson or a DFO didn't have something else there. The only added rubber COULD be a washer put on the inside of the cap where it sits on the bearing. Don't think it necessary unless you are using the washer to change the position of the cap for the setscrews because the fiberglass tube is messed up where they go. In other words, you could use a washer to lift the cap so it rides higher and exposes unviolated rudder tube to drill into with the setscrews.

The cap is not tight on the bearing. It should allow a bit of drainage for any water that gets in there.

Rico, thanks for the photo of the cap. It's great to have something to see when talking about it. Looking inside I can only imagine a ledge as you say. Just what exactly was in there??? That blue disk??? It might have been someone's attempt at snugging the cap, that stuck around for you to find? Imco it's better that what water gets in gets out quick.

Good to know the new bearing and O-rings work well.
EPDM* (on some re-research) does best for the price and application, so that must be what Bill supplies with the bearing.
Viton, which is expensive, and whose usual ap is for fuel, has better 'compression set' rating and may last longer in the inside 'dynamic' ap in the sleeve bearing. Don't quote me.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __
I see by reading this whole thread that Ebb originally got NEOPRENE O-rings! After two years on rico's bateau they still working great. BUT
I am going to reorder the rings and get EPDM which has a much better rating in the weathering/ozone department (we are exterior ap on the boat) - also in the compressionset department - and in the wear/abrasion dept. Neoprene has a 'poor' rating in compression set. That means it will get flat and stay flat and eventually sea water will shoot up into the cockpit again and the rudder shaft will loosen. SO.....


I RECOMMEND THAT YOU CHANGE-OUT THE O-RINGS THAT CAME WITH YOUR NEW DELRIN BEARING FOR THE EPDM RINGS.....


I'll take it upon myself to mail to any member of the Association a set of EPDM O-rings for their delrin bearing.
Let's use the Private Message option here on the site.


First, have to order them. Today (12/6/07)

Then, ask Bill if it's alright with him that this is the way to do it.
Bill, is this OK with you?
(Original O-ring sacks may have material designations, will you look?
Can't believe I went with neoprene!!!)

[Bill]

Then, ask Bill if it's alright with him that this is the way to do it. Bill, is this OK with you? (Original O-ring sacks may have material designations, will you look? Can't believe I went with neoprene!!!)

No problem, Ebb. Go for it. Once you've supplied the members, we'll gladly accept the remaining O-rings for inclusion with the new bearings.

I'll check the plastic bags to see if there are any product codes and let you know by E-mail.

[ebb]

OK BILL,
Thanks.

I've looked a little more into this rubber thing. There are too many variables to make a good call on what has the best tear/abrasion resistance of medium-hard O-ring elastomers. The silicones are the ones to stay away from.
All the others: Buna-Nitrile, Neoprene, EPDM are in the mid range of acceptability for dynamic and static sealing. With Buna-N and Nitrile rating slightly better than EPDM. But EPDM has a better overall score imco. Keeping the bearing greased is probably a good thing BUT

none of these O-Rings (except Viton) are rated for oil/hydrocarbon use. Use no petroleum products in the top of your rudder shaft. Since silicone can contaminate gelcoat surfaces, I won't have silicone lube aboard the boat imco. Often touted as a petroleum 'alternative.' Personally I would recommend lanoline. It may be available in a more liquid form for easier application in the bearing. Forespar maybe. Lanoline has a rep of keeping water OUT of things.

I guess Bill can offer both sets if you wish, so you have to make the choice, but then with two sets you'll have backup too. Be a couple of weeks befor this settles out. Thanks.

[mbd]

OK, is this a rudder bearing? It goes over the top of and around the rudder shaft and inside the fiberglass tube. Oh, and under the tiller cap. (At least that's where this piece came from when I broke it.)

Is this a new one or an original?

I'll be ordering a new one Bill. Can I sent the payment with my annual donation? Is Gene Roberts still the go to guy with both?

----------------------------------------------
PS. I don't have an O-ring inside my tiller cap like Rico's in post #10 either. It just sits over the top of the fiberglass tube and is secured with set the screws.

[Bill]

OK, is this a rudder bearing? . . . Is this a new one or an original?

I'll be ordering a new one Bill. Can I sent the payment with my annual donation? Is Gene Roberts still the go to guy with both?

Yes, that's the rudder shaft bearing, but I don't think its a "new" one. And yes, Gene is still the person for dues and mailing out the bearings.

[ebb]

Lanocote is lanoline. Lanolin is sheepwool grease. It is non-toxic, non-standardoil, non-dupont, what more do you want? It's also versatile:
It lubes seacocks and ballvalves
-turnbuckles and shackles
-waterproofs electrical stuff
-battery terminals
-stops galvanization (isolates s.s from aluminum)
-stops corrosion on stuff that's rusting
-lubes hinges and other working metals
-lubes & protects OB mechanisms
-lubes sleevebearings and EPDM O-Rings
-coat threads, splines, pins, shafts, bushings
-preserves metal, plastic, rubber hose
-effective drilling compound
-soothes cracks in your heels*
-lubes sailcloth needles and fids
-holds back rust on your chain and anchor
-great leather preservative (shoe polish)
-put a film of it on metal tools (spray it on,
wipe off all you can, leaves a film)
-mount your prop with it and it'll
pull right off next time.
-Some have tried it ON
their props - with mixed success
-Spray-on is a great gun lube and preservative.
and dozens of other uses.

It's a tough moisture barrier
AND a soft non-oil non-silicone lube.
Non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, anti-bacterial.
(This may not be true for the carriers in the spray & aerosol forms.)
Comes in a 4oz jar as a sticky gel like grease
also in a 7oz aerosol
and a weird little 8oz spray bottle with an large squirtgun head.
Doesn't cost much: 7,8, $10, like that.
The grease will last longer in use than the thinner stuff.
Don't use it too thick overhead (mast), heat will melt it
and it will drop on your deck. Soap and water cleanup.
Available as a thick grease from the pharmacy. Always get ANHYDROUS.

Anhydrous lanolin has a unique smell, may take some getting used to for some.
It's the yellow oil secreted by the skin of sheep. When the sheep are sheared
in the spring the oil is separated from the wool. Nobody died directly from this process.
They have managed to give the product Lanocote a nice smokey almost petro smell - I guess so that we'll feel more comfortable using it.



This is just info - not advocating a brand - there must be others - almost all Aussie. Imports? You have to agree it IS a special product. And most curious that megatech Forespar has it in its catalog. Has to be a shift in attitude toward an environmentally friendly product. Industry has not found a way to synthetically duplicate lanolin.
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________________
*Anhydrous lanolin is a water barrier, but supposedly when you mix it with oliveoil it will absorb into cracked feet and chapped hands.
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________________
Check out the next boatshow for Aussie PROLAN and THERMOBOAT booths!
And remember, lanolin has been around a lot longer than Boshield T9 (petro-junkies love this product).

[mbd]

Got my new rudder bearing - here it is. Thanks Bill/Gene!

[CupOTea]

I'm all set to put my new rudder bearing in BUT - I can only get two of the set screws out.of the chrome cap and so can't remove it. The third one is facing almost due aft and is pretty stripped by PO I guess. Can't get around there with an Allen or hex or anything else to get it out. Anyone else run into this and tackled it?

[bill@ariel231]

I worked mine free with a strap wrench. The offending set screw has since been replaced.

[CupOTea]

Great Bill - thanks. What's behind that screw - the old bearing? fiberglass? the shaft? I'm thinking to whatever damage I might do in the process.

[bill@ariel231]

If your cap is like mine, the set screw bears on a fiberglass tube. be gentle, it will come off without scaring the tube

[CupOTea]

Great - can't wait to give it a try. Love to see your yacht sometime - I'm in Naragansett every summer at least once. Thanks, Scott