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Thread: EBB's PHOTO GALLERY THREAD

  1. #241
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Scarborough, Maine
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by commanderpete
    Love the toerail
    Ditto that! And the scuppers too... Functional and elegant. Looks like a Fuller tool kit was put to use.

    Your open interior is sweet. The arch is interesting, but I would think you could use your existing bulkheads for shelving or storage, things I'm sure you can never have enough of.
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  2. #242
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pembroke Ontario Canada
    Posts
    584

    Thumbs up

    LOVE the raised toe rail !!! The scuppers are great...and needed. The little 'bulwork'(spell check:Mike) will sure give you a confident feeling going forward offshore.....not to mention a great tool saver to boot.Lookin good buddy...it IS progressing.Too bad about the primer job...WOW !! You and I AFTER a bottle of rum could have done better...ouch!! Think of all that sanding in the heat as a gym alterative.Keep it going Ebb...it really looks great.

  3. #243
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,543
    Thanks gents for the vote on the rail. That feels good!

  4. #244
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pembroke Ontario Canada
    Posts
    584
    Ebb...I'm not gettin a handle on your interior??.Open IS great,huge watertank down low is super,nice 1/4 berth too if I remember right.Can't place the galley?? Any final ideas yet??

  5. #245
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,543
    Franko,
    Keep telling self to make fullsize mockup with paper and cardboard. I think the basic thing is to have minimal open access to the starboard Q'berth, with the dinette continuing off of it all the way to the bulkhead under the mast. Want to have the largest table possible. I 'see' the table top with hinges somewhere in the middle so that half of it can easily fold UP - hopefully leaving enough room for the off watch to be comfortable when the dinette converts to bunk.

    Ideal would be to push the whole 'double' bunk bed thing forward (over the V-berth tanks) so the the galley area and the c'way are free. That's why the compass arch looks so good to me - and it's just a few inches extra gained at bunk level. When the laminated compression beam was built of white oak, I used cloth with epoxy to glue between lams. Resorcinol supposedly doesn't like the wood, and I don't think brown glue is waterproof enough. All the other glues have a problem with creep, except the polyurethanes which I've had problems with just in normal glueing. Anyway, it's a complicated messy project making that bloody arch the hard way - so hopefully I won't find myself doing it!

    Have to have the galley at the c'way so I can stand (with the hatch open.) The counter won't continue over to where the icebox was, which has to remain open. I think the port corner is the best location for the kitchen in 338. Aside from shelves and cupboards I'm not certain what will be between the galley and the V'berth on the port side. Because this is standing room here, the ladder has to be removable, tho steps built into the furniture that leaves the center open is an option. Plan a small portable cold box under the bridge.
    Last edited by ebb; 08-03-2006 at 03:58 AM.

  6. #246
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Northern MN
    Posts
    1,099
    Ebb

    Now I just have to take a break from work(indentured servency) to sound off. But don't expect me to bathe you in compliments. No sir! This is the level of work and craftsmanship we expect from you by now.



    Get real, me...

    Nice...very nice. These hulls really do take a wood toerail well. But the scuppers! Schwing!!! 'Don't recall you mentioning anything about cut-out scuppers in the past. Hurry up and launch so we can see how they work. I could go fer a set on 113.

    You, sir, have a fine eye for lines. I'm talkin' about your windscreen. I knew you had something cool up your sleeve from your last email. Although, I thought it would be mostly polycarbonate, kinda like the Halberg-Rassey. I do like your idea better on a boat this size. The way I figure, you've got the hard part out of the way. Now it's just some simple bows and misc. hardware. Yeah, right. Who am I kidding? Nothing seems to be 'simple' with Ebb.

    Is your old sliding hatch the removable seahood now? Do you have plans for a panel type that attaches to the 'rails'?

    Galley. I remember when you replied to one of my postings with, "welcome to the how am I gonna fit it all in here club." Beats me! Living aboard a 26 footer is definitely a singles kinda thing. Galley or crew, galley or crew, galley or crew....I guess the key is to make use of every square inch of boat. Deck, cabin top, fore deck, c-pit, everything. I'm already looking for a 40 footer that will still be too small. But, at least then you can go to oposite ends of the boat to blow off steam

    The paint is a minor PIA. Don't even factor that in.

    How about a rigging update. Any new thoughts on that can of worms?

    Who loves ya, Baby.

    Tony G

  7. #247
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pembroke Ontario Canada
    Posts
    584

    Thumbs up

    I like the dinette idea....along with the rest.Can't waite for the launch party. Your 1st sail is going to be sweet.

  8. #248
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,543
    Howzit goin Tony?
    The Round the World Volvo race is over. They did a film recap of those rockets leaving wakes with rooster tails, decks awash with green water, and white guys bundled up like penguins in goretex. I figure a hydrodynamic windscreen is the way to go. Hey, as long as coamers are coming aboard from the front!

    Those scuppers are really pieces cut from a 1/4" xmatt layup around a wood form wrapped in mylar, like a strudel. Then the molded toe rail is sawzalled where you think they should be, the pieces (breadsliced at a slant for a yotsey look) laid in place, glued in, and then trimmed down to the profile of the rail. With some backup matt underneath they should work in a toerail that has not been filled in like 338. I glued them in as if the deck was there. That is the thickness of the slices was left above deck level so that water CANNOT drip down the openings onto the topsides. Dribbles should be taken care by the factory deck scupper.

    In laying out the interior, you're correct, it IS with singlehanding in the forefront - but forever hopeful the double bunk convertable will get thoroly exercised.
    Last edited by ebb; 12-04-2006 at 09:10 AM.

  9. #249
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,543
    Tony, I need some ideas to cadge.
    How's YOUR interior coming?
    Last edited by ebb; 08-03-2006 at 01:20 PM.

  10. #250
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    1,823
    Volvo hood
    Attached Images  

  11. #251
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,543

    Talking

    Mae West said it,
    Too much of a good thing is wonderful.

  12. #252
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Narragansett Bay, R.I.
    Posts
    597
    Ebb

    sorry to be late joining the choir here. Nice toe rail, and I really like the shape of your hard dodger. do you have a sketch of the complete design with the bows & canvas? just curious...

    cheers,
    Bill

  13. #253
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,543
    Thanks Bill,
    Naw, I started with a think piece. An arc that is slightly flattened in the front. When I had the arc idea more or less set I made two out of stacked and grabber screwed plywood pieces. I knew I had to have the same exact arch because if they are different you put a twist in the finished surface. And a somewhat DEarched front because I knew I had to work in a flat hatch. The plywood arcs were tacked together and carved to fit the separate frp lamination going over the companionway. And carved to come more or less to a point at the end of the cabin. Struts were then permanently put in to join the two and 1/4" masonite cut to fit. I use Office Depot (or is it Staples?) white posterboard. Use a lot of it to make full size patterns.

    After the layup I had to disassemble (destroy) the mold form. To keep the epoxy from sticking to the wrong stuff I use mylar film, twoside carpet tape, painter's film and saran-wrap (both polyethylene.)

    I kept the windscreen as low as I thought practical. And aesthetic. It still looks huge to me! I don't know yet if I really lucked out on the glass hatch for the front. It just fits - in theory. Maybe I'll give the factory a call, right now! They said they make the hatches on order!

    It's pretty subjective. I wanted a strong green water hard dodger. Windscreen and pram hood is a compromise. A low entry dodger was out of the question. I'm assuming a good soft dodger maker will be able to solve the folding part of it.
    Last edited by ebb; 08-15-2006 at 07:46 AM.

  14. #254
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    San Francisco - or Abroad
    Posts
    430

    Apprenticeship

    As I took my trailer measurements off of EBB's boat, I could not help drooling over the nice toerail and the smooth 'brand new' feel of the decks...

    If I make it back to the SF Bay area soon I want to be Ebb's apprentice. I could use some of those skills on C155. Too bad I did not know about the nice work going on there at the time!

  15. #255
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,543

    possible boat name: Tenacious

    Thanks Rico.
    If I were young again and knew what I really wanted to do (which I didn't), and had some guts (which I didn't) I would find a master shipbuilder and make myself indispensible. Masters know how do do things quick. Masters know every trick and jig. Masters know the 'dance'.

    338 shows what a certain amount of enthusiasm can do, and endless hours reinventing the wheel. Masters don't make mistakes. When they do, they know how to go seamlessly on to the next mistake. Amateurs know how to screw things up, sometimes pretty royally. And amateurs often lack persistence.

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