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Thread: EBB's PHOTO GALLERY THREAD

  1. #226
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    Ebb: "Showing the end on the new toerail and a transom begging for a taffrail!"
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  2. #227
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    Ebb: "Curtains and runs from a disastrous spray-on primer fiasco. Expectations were of a thin easy to sand final prime. Even paid the guy for his time. And yours truly spent the hottest days on record in San Rafael longboarding and sanding the damn stuff nearly all off!"
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  3. #228
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    Ebb: "Port scuppers cut into the molded rail under the new toerail just forward of the Pearson deck scupper. Whether this is the place for them is arguable. They are also near the winch base and will constrict water flow on its way aft. It is way more traditional to have scuppers evenly spaced along the bulwark."
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  4. #229
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    Ebb: "Portrait of the port side toerail"
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  5. #230
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    Ebb: "Finally the OB motor well gets its primer coat, albeit lots of runs, but relatively easy to sand. Wish I could get somebody else to do it!"
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    Last edited by Bill; 08-01-2006 at 09:30 AM.

  6. #231
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    Ebb: "This shows the dodger from the cockpit. The piece is made from xmat and epoxy over a form. 1/2-inch pvc foam was bent and glued to that and more xmat on top. Classic sandwich. Works in progress have many unknowns and surprises. How it will actually finish up can't tell (ideas, anyone?) - or even if it will have a place there aesthetically. Unlike Geoff, who has the area covered, the dodger proposed here is only a windscreen requiring an expensive pipe and canvas pram hood to fully protect the c'way. Dodger has its own bridge over the c'way making it independent of the seahood. There's a choice whether it will be permanently installed or made removable. Picture shows the big side hatch-slide rails now built in. They run the length of the cabin top and the seahood (also removable) mounts there on. Note taller coamings extending up from the inside and the mockup of a flat hatch."
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  7. #232
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    Ebb: "This shot shows the seahood made with the original sliding hatch. There may be room under the forward part for a dorade. Dodger shows some off-the-wall possible windows. I had planned 3/8" carbonate for these - but bending the plastic to those curves is totally daunting. Center window indicates a Taylor-Made opening hatch."
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  8. #233
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    Ebb: "Starboard locker conversion to water tank. Doorskin to the bulkhead with the pencil lines proposes cutting the bulkhead back even further."
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  9. #234
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    Ebb: "This is a trial idea in doorskin. What are the pros and cons? The laminated beam would go under the one already there (too massive! lost head room!). But it would open up the longer berth room the skipper requires. The doorskin shows a compass curve, the strongest architectural shape possible, in the only form possible, or am I missing something. The present compression beam with its struts imho is perfectly adequate. The arch is strangely more pleasing to me than what's there."
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  10. #235
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    Ebb: "Deck has been lowered to accommodate 19.5-inch height of AirHead head. Discovered, after the yard leveled the boat, that the V'berths are higher at the fore end by 3/4-inch."
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  11. #236
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    Ebb: "A 1/4-inch thick ply lid covers the sump here. Tank fittings exit here as do 3 pvc pipes from the focsl, anchor locker, V'berth bilge. Area under cockpit is waiting for battery compartment."
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  12. #237
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    We had more photos of the drooling paint, but felt they were too embarrassing to post

  13. #238
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    Mar 2006
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    Havre de Grace, MD
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    Ebb, what did you use to coat the inside of your water tank?

    Edit: Also did you glass straight the the existing plywood? If so did you lay any type of barrier to keep it from sticking to the ply (I can just imagine for some reason needing to remove it and all the explicitives that would accompany such a feet had it been bonded to the ply wood.)
    Last edited by tha3rdman; 08-01-2006 at 10:48 AM.
    #97 "Absum!"

  14. #239
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    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    WOW

    I like the arch, but the interior is opened up very nicely already.

    I'd go with the biggest windows possible for the dodger, even if you have to use vinyl windows. A handrail on either side would be good too.

    Love the toerail

  15. #240
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    Sep 2001
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    San Rafael, CA
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    Sea'pete, Thanks, for your input! Maybe the arch and the windows are related in that we do want to get the widest effect possible. Always in the mix is the 'form follows function' maxim. The give and take of that is the fun part in trying to be unique but also end with something that looks right.

    Dodgers are definitely structures that have to be made to be seen thru. My choice of a hatch for the center requires all the framing that comes with those things. Have a feeling it will seem too small. But it was the largest ready-made I could find for that space. And the hatch light is glass.

    Have wanted to have windows in the dodger that look related to the windows in the cabin. An attempt to stay with the '60s look. That means a frame around the 'light'. That means giving up see-thru area. The best, easiest, even strongest, way is carbonate slabbed and thru-bolted over openings. Can be cut to look like more see-thru area too. But from the beginning I've wanted to keep that framed look. We'll see!

    __________________________________________________ ________________________________
    3rdmon,
    The tank coating is epoxyproducts.com's NSP 120. A 100% solids 2 to 1 NSF 61 Approved Potable Water Epoxy. This is the caveat: NSF (National Sanitation Foundation Testing Lab.) is a private agency that takes FDA statistics and works them into a certification for a product or material. 61 is a number that refers to potable water. This epoxy is certified for tanks of a 1000gals or more. I'd like to know what the criterion is that judges whether an epoxy is good for a tank or a quart container?

    When you search for a coating in the USA that is certified for potable water in smaller tanks you won't find it. Imagine all the containers we store and drink water from, including epoxy. I needed something.

    I used this NSP 120 as the barrier coat on the outside hull. It's a hard, shiney, recoatable, dense product. It has an odor when fresh that disappears after set. I asked Paul at epoxyproducts.com about the smell and he didn't know - but I was assured it wasn't solvent. And so far as I know using it inside the boat hasn't produced a reaction. I take care to mix this product in one container and then pour it into another and stir again to make sure all of it is thoroly mixed. No uncured epoxy we hope. We're looking for an inert coating when cured. But who knows what we have here. Research it and use it without my recommendation.

    Novolac epoxies, highly chemical resistant, used for coating gas tanks for instance, seem to be something to look into. All we're looking for is a hard non-reactive liner. I will pass potable, drinking/cooking water from a tank thru a carbon filter.

    Don't know how far you want to get into this: but when I researched rubber (for seams and fittings) NO polysulfide passes the potable water line. NONE! That means polyurethane has to be used. Sikaflex 1A is OK, 5200 probably as well. I think I used the 1A because it had a longer open time(?) and was cheaper, coming from the hardware store. For fuel related we MUST use polysulfide (Thiokol was originally invented to keep WWII planes together, including fuel tanks.) - for water related we MUST use polyurethane.

    The tank was made inside the original V-berth. The tank is part of the hull, let's say. Unusual are the large triangular sectioned fillers glassed in under the plywood top. There is a final lid which has two 6" s.s. access plates and a nylon waterfill. Dunno about the vent yet. The interior is completely glassed. The tank has a narrow raised flat bottom. The draw will be out the bottom, ie thru the bulkhead. The baffle is 3/16" homemade frp sheet held in place with fillets - with the top let into a groove in the lid.
    Last edited by ebb; 09-01-2006 at 11:19 PM.

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