Njord Commander Hull 105

[Tony G]

That's what I'm talkin 'bout!

She looks great, Robert. Those new ports may not appeal to everyone but I think they look like the real deal. These hulls just look fantastic. I can't wait to sail one! You know I'm always surfing the gallery looking for pics.

Couldn't agree with you more, Ebb. These knees are already knobby, scarred and creaking. Didn't Carl plan on turning around or weather helm?

[ebb]

If you guys will just excuse me briefly here while we close the loop. Seem to have no luck posting these ugh's but here goes:

http://www.sailnet.com/collections/a...eid=boyles0007

OK, this is an essay by a skipper who has pedestal steering but wanted a backup tiller for his Pearson. Like many P. of our era the ruddershaft comes up out of the deck in the back of the cockpit. His project is knarley but what you might like to see is the shape of the tiller (there is a photo) which starts bending upward as it leaves the tillerhead fitting. What I have in mind. Looks fine for a Commander. Ariel might want an even more radical bend.

The maker of the tiller is also mentioned. Might be an easier way to go. Be interesting to find out what a custom tiller costs these days. Looks to me like a pattern for ours could already exist in a woodworker's shop.

[Robert Lemasters]

Ebb
Yes, I lost a big tree in our garden it took down our brick wall and we had flooding, replaced floors and things, could have been much worse. Seems like some of my nighbors have caught the sailing bug like I got from Micheal Goodwin when I saw his Ariel. Its a new thing for me, I find that new things keep me going. I have just finished with the staunchens and safety lines so Pat won't fall overboard. Trying to figure out the Jib track and hardware now. The new tiller was broken in half by the 32 Ft sailboat that was on top of my boat...it suffered much worse damage. The original tiller had been repaired two times and has come apart again. West Marine no longer has them, looks like I will be making my own. I plan on adding a small wheel to the cabin for the outboard motor plus simple controls and someway to raise the motor out of the water, I'm too old to lift it in and out all of the time and there is a storage problem. Have recent photographs If I can remember were I put the disc. Next rerigging the mast, replacing broken parts, lighting and wireing. thank goodness the sails are in great condition. New Sphinx acre but need pole.

[Robert Lemasters]

Tony
I hated to replace the original portlights but they were badly damaged, corroded, couldn't see through them and leaked plus they did not open. I had two old bronze Wilcox & Crittenden 5 inch portholes and found three more on Ebay for $150, one needed new glass cost $85 to replace one inch thick safety glass. They make a world of differance, fresh air, you can see through them, they don't leak and won't corrode. The hard wood rings that they are bolted to were a real problem to cut out(used epay wood that is like teak)had many rejects, even tried to have them made without success. The cabin was already damaged, I had no choice but to make changes, it was real work but worth it, I now hate sanding and fiberglassing. They do make the boat look somewhat differant but its more important that they do the job and are as seaworthy as these old boats seem to be. The hull was painted black because my wife works for Sherwin Williams Seaguard Marine and thats the color she got for me, they make and sell marine coatings, good thing that she did't have hot pink or mustard yellow.

[ebb]

What tree, what tree?? Wrong kind huh? Conefir? Yew would be good.

By the way, Tim Lackey wrassels with tiller making in his online book, trying also to get some knee room. Steam bending and epoxy.

If you are going to steam bend (or soaking in boiling water) choose a live American hardwood like white oak, pecan, hickory, elm, etc. The problem with store bought lignum is that it's already cooked in the kiln. So it's kind of tired already. Fresh wood is by far the best.

Making an 'S' curve approachs impossibility even with very thin laminations. Tim does tell us the best trick of all: which is to glue three pieces together first to get the shape. Then keep adding singles so that you don't squeeze the epoxy out, and aren't fighting the shape, and the slipping and sliding. 338 came with a single bowed mahogany delam. In a shop environment you could glue up with resorcinol and literally use carjacks and hammers to clamp it. Still, you'ld have to use veneer-thin wood. After you squared and tapered it you'ld still have to dress a top and bottom on to cover the outs. Lot of work.

A tiller what has straight grain running beginning to end thruout its curves is strong and can be skinnied down like a baseball bat handle. But unlike modern lathed turned bats that seem to break alot on TV there'ld be no short grain in that lithe and limber homegrown timber tiller.

Aluminum, anyone?

[Robert Lemasters]

EBB
I was told that the tree was some kind of ornimental, it was soft wood, good for nothing and green. Yew would be great, they used to make bows from yew wood, what does a yew look like, were are they found? I'm looking at ash but have a pretty good piece of mahogany, 4 " thick by about 6' long. I like the tiller instead of a wheel, it's not a racing yacht. Know where there is a 20-24 ft catboat thats needs some work, boy they are impressive , would be perfect for the bay, seems like a very rugged boat, but it's wooden.

[mbd]

Robert - the round protals look fantastic! Very salty looking little boat. You fixed my least favorite part of the Commanders, the little portals! She kind of looks like a Cape Dory Typhoon Senior - very nice! Now you've got me thinking I may start looking at Commanders as well as the Ariels...
Mike