Sea Sprite 23 #670 "Heritage"

[Chance]

Here's a closer look at the bright work on the new weather boards. When selecting the teak stock, I was specific about using only vertical grain (quarter sawn) and that the board I had was large enough to get all three pieces from it. This ensured that there would be grain and color continuity between the three weather boards. The splines you see are also vertical grain teak, but from another tree, hence the color difference.

[Porter Wayfare]

I think the font you are looking for is "Goudy Old Style." Yes, it certainly is a good one. It's sometimes included in the selection of fonts that comes with Microsoft Word.

[Porter Wayfare]

About the font, you'll have to make it "Bold." I don't recognize the numeral font exactly, but chances are it's version of Goudy too. It's hard to imagine they got picky enough to change fonts for a registration decal.

[paulsproesser]

Your woodwork and finishing look great ! I wish i could've worked with a clean palatte. What type of varnish did you use? and it looks like a big job ahead for the exterior woodwork , Will you oil it or varnish it ?

[Chance]

Porter,
Thank you for the font ID. I am placing an order for her new registration numbers.

Paul,
Your skills and refinishing are remarkable. Like you, I selected Epifanes Clear Varnish for my bright work. As for the weathered toe rail and coamings, I'm undecided as to what I'll do. A concern I have is sanding them down to achieve an acceptable starting point for the varnish. The wood has already been sanded down, who knows how many times, and fear that my attempt could result in bungs being displaced. Additionally I have no experience in how to bring back older, weathered teak to an acceptable starting point, and am not too keen on experimenting with her teak, that is currently in sound, albeit a slight unsightly, condition.

[Chance]

"Heritage" was missing her original motor well hatch cover when I assumed stewardship of her. After much thought, I came up with my own version and have been slowly developing her from scratch.
In my humble opinion, my creation is better than the original in both appearance, strength, fitment and integrity.
The design, although not overly complicated, took into account that the shape as viewed from the top is actually trapazoidal and not rectangular as I originally thought. I also wanted to match the decks camber on the top of the hatch and found it necessary to duplicate the camber to the lower sides (bottom edges) of the hatch cover so that it would seat properly.
I also wanted to ensure that it would achieve the following: look right, like it belonged, be strong enough for an adult to stand upon it and enhance the overall appearance and integrity of her refit.
As many of you may know, attention to detail, not swiftness in accomplishment seem to be more my style. Make no mistake, the photos of progress do not depict the time invested in this one project, now nearing completion.
Here's some of the earlier stages of the process:

[Chance]

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[Chance]

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[Chance]

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[ebb]

Chance, you do such nice work, it's a pleasure to witness the progression(s).

I've been using Epifanes for brightwork that is going to be hung on the boat soon. Its great stuff and produces a beautiful finish. It has a sister companion that is even easier to use and builds up coats faster (woodfinishgloss).
It does require thinning with a system thinner....I allow myslf just one thinner or addfitive. When I find
a hardware store variety, or I'm tipped about it, will certainly use that one. Varnish is varnish.
How recoats go on is also part of the parcel and should be direct and easy to do.

I've used LeTonkinois on other trim along side of the pieces done with E.
Cannot tell the difference between the two varnishes. At eight coats each on mahogany, honestly can't tell the difference between the two.
Epifanes is a technical tung oil varnish creature made with a number of solvents, aliphatic hydrocarbons and cautions about breathing its vapors. Goes on great. Has a great rep for UV resistance. IE recoat time.

Tonk is high temp boiled linseed and tung oil whose instructions for use is to apply with brush or spraygunm and clean with white spirits
- which I assume can also be used to thin the varnish but there are no instructions on thinning. There is one full day between coats. Don't need to sand. But you sand like maybe we all do because that's the only way to knock the anomalies flat.
Both varnishes repeat valleys, hills and fisheyes thru many coats, so to get ahead sanding is the only way to go.
Scotchbrite pads might or might not work depending on what you want to achieve. Epifanes varnish requires each coat sanding like all traditional varnish - but you can skip with LeTonkinois. I'll stick without creating dust.
Feel that Tonk is a more casual, friendly, ole-timey, forgiving material.

Tonk is a tougher varnish as it ages, claims equal or better UV resistance. Has no aromatic or chloronated solvents in it.
About this product ALONE, You can breathe it (not the spray, of course) and touch it without
causing liver damage.
It's easier to add a maintainance coat, as the season changes.
Probably an easier varnish to keep and use on board.

White spirits, mineral spirits, is a petroleum distillate. Don't want to breathe the stuff.
Odorless spirits is the same material further refined to remove the harmfull aromatics. Might be easier/safer to haave around the boat and shop.

I think LeTonkinois should be explored by us varnishers and talked about here in the Forum.