Commander 147

[mbd]

She's really coming together nicely. That coaming is freakin' gorgeous Jerry! I'm sorry if you've talked about it before, but jeeze, it looks like a piece of fine furniture! Really beautiful! Got any "how you made 'em" pics? What are they?

[Lucky Dawg]

Holy Moley! For someone with limited work time, you're pretty dang productive! Cheers. Nice work. Destiny looks brand new. That's a $100k yacht you're about to splash!

[Commander 147]

Holy Moley! For someone with limited work time, you're pretty dang productive! Cheers. Nice work. Destiny looks brand new. That's a $100k yacht you're about to splash!

Thanks Kyle


The way I look at it if I was going to buy a new boat that is equal to what Destiny will be when I am done I would actually have to pay more than 100K. At least that is what I tell myself to justify the money I am spending on her!

[Commander 147]

She's really coming together nicely. That coaming is freakin' gorgeous Jerry! I'm sorry if you've talked about it before, but jeeze, it looks like a piece of fine furniture! Really beautiful! Got any "how you made 'em" pics? What are they?

Mike


I actually went to a lot of effort to get the coamings right. They are Honduras mahogany which is getting much more difficult to find and what you do find is just not that good. I'm lucky in that I have a friend that owns a large millwork operation who allows me to purchase lumber through his wholesale distributor. But I had to drive an hour and a half to get to his supplier where I looked through 500 board feet of lumber to find the two boards that were long and wide enough and quarter sawn. There were a lot of boards big enough but they were flat sawn and ugly and likely to be unstable in a wet environment.


The returns where the boards tie into the cabin sides are made from another piece of Honduras mahogany that was also quarter sawn and 8/4 (2 inches) thick. The quarter sawn mahogany will often get the ribbon stripping that the returns show. I actually bought that piece of lumber from out of state because I could not find it in Florida. And I spent the better part of a full weekend doing nothing but shaping and fitting the two returns.


Bottom line is Mike all it comes down to is time and money. And I have invested a lot of both in Destiny. :-)

[mbd]

Thanks Jerry. It looks like you "capped" where it connects to the cabin trunk too. It's a nice finished look and give some protection to the end grain on the attachment piece - whatever that would be called. The Sea Sprite 23 had those caps and I thought they'd look really nice with all wood coamings - now I know - at least when YOU do it. Seriously - so beautifully done! And the coamings are so a featured on these boats too. Wow....

[Commander 147]

Thanks Jerry. It looks like you "capped" where it connects to the cabin trunk too. It's a nice finished look and give some protection to the end grain on the attachment piece - whatever that would be called. The Sea Sprite 23 had those caps and I thought they'd look really nice with all wood coamings - now I know - at least when YOU do it. Seriously - so beautifully done! And the coamings are so a featured on these boats too. Wow....

Actually Mike the returns are not capped and when I went back and looked at the picture I could see why you would think they were. They appear capped because I rounded over the top edges with a round over bit in the router. And the end grain appears darker than the face grain of the wood. The problem with capping something like this is that wood expands and shrinks at different rates based on it's orientation. The cap that would be on top would not expand or contract hardly at all in it's length. But the wood under it will expand at a much larger percentage than the cap on top. I did a quick search online and found what appears to be a good article about wood expansion and contraction as it takes on and gives off moisture content. Take a look here. You will see a picture that shows wood only expands and contract 1% in length but 8% tangentially.


http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow...d_Movement.htm

[mbd]

Hmmm... thanks for setting me straight. How did/will you seal that work of art?

[Commander 147]

Hmmm... thanks for setting me straight. How did/will you seal that work of art?

In any state that is always a challenge but here in Florida it is even more so. I am using 4 coats of Cetol natural teak as a base and two coats of clear Cetol over the top. The picture does not show the finished product yet because it isn't. There are only 2 coats of natural teak finish on so far. And while some of the other Cetol products would do a better job of protecting, they muddy up the appearance so much you can't hardly tell what the wood looks like under it. In the Florida sun Cetol holds up significantly better than varnish possibly can so even the lower level of protection with the "natural teak" version is better than varnish. In addition my wife is making a full cover for Destiny for me. So when I am not sailing her she will always be under cover.


Everything about life is a compromise. I am a big fan of wood so I am willing to spend a lot more time in the off sailing season maintaining the finish on Destiny's wood parts. And the key is good maintenance.

[mbd]

Jerry, you've really got really knack for the finer details: the trim pieces along the cockpit seat, the grate in the after part of the cockpit - even the sliding rails on your hatch - really accent those beautiful coamings. You're probably getting tired of hearing it - but you really really do absolutely beautiful work! Thanks for sharing it with us.

[Commander 147]

Jerry, you've really got really knack for the finer details: the trim pieces along the cockpit seat, the grate in the after part of the cockpit - even the sliding rails on your hatch - really accent those beautiful coamings. You're probably getting tired of hearing it - but you really really do absolutely beautiful work! Thanks for sharing it with us.

I really do appreciate the comments a lot. As long as this project has taken me it is comments like that that keep me going and never giving up. Thanks for your kind words.

[Commander 147]

Since I am not putting the stern pulpit back on Destiny I though a long time about how to support the mast for travel. This afternoon I built a support at the back end of the cockpit and another at the mast step to do just that. I was able to tie the back support off to 4 cleats (two stern cleats and two mid-ships cleats that mount to the genoa track.


Because the forward mast support is part of the trailer and because the boat can get a little out of perfect alignment when going on the trailer the center support had to allow for the misalignment. So it is a support only. You can see the way the boat is on the trailer right now the string line does not land right in the middle of the center support.


I'm trying to get the mast back on the boat (at least temporarily) so I can finish up the new standing rigging and measure for new sails.


One of these days I'm going to actually sail this boat!

[Commander 147]

Did you know that according to Wikipedia the correct spelling for a boats traveller requires 2 L's? All these years I have been spelling it incorrectly.


So anyway I got a small amount of time I could spend on Destiny today and I finished the traveller installation.

[Lucky Dawg]

What's the launch date, Man? Can't wait to see Destiny fulfill her destiny!

[Lucky Dawg]

I'm with you Mike. Serious "WOW" factor. Jerry, I want to see your masterful take on the teak cockpit sole as the pièce de résistance for this brand-new-old gal!

Thanks for the info on installing rubrail. I toyed with using the predrilled Eagle moulding 12" oc holes (with the same 5200 process you describ) to install the rail - therefore with half as many screw holes through the topsides - and then screwing the6" oc stainless rubrail just to the moulding. Thoughts?

[Commander 147]

I'm with you Mike. Serious "WOW" factor. Jerry, I want to see your masterful take on the teak cockpit sole as the pièce de résistance for this brand-new-old gal!

Thanks for the info on installing rubrail. I toyed with using the predrilled Eagle moulding 12" oc holes (with the same 5200 process you describ) to install the rail - therefore with half as many screw holes through the topsides - and then screwing the6" oc stainless rubrail just to the moulding. Thoughts?

Dang, I forgot until you asked this question that I had done exactly that (at least to a point)! I attached the vinyl molding first and then the S.S. rub rail afterwards and I used a 5/8" long screw to attach the S.S. rub rail to the vinyl with the following exceptions. At both ends and at a maximum of 3' apart I ran screws through the S.S. rail and all the way into the fiberglass. I found some of the holes in the S.S. rub rail landed directly on top of the screws for the vinyl so at those locations I used the same screw for both. So at all of the ends of the S.S. rub rail, and where ever screws landed on top of each other and, a maximum of 3' apart I had screws that went through both the stainless and the vinyl all the way into the fiberglass. Sorry I forgot to mention that in my previous post.