Commander 147

[Commander227]

Sounds like you've got your mind right... You'll never be able to sell it for more than half what you've got into it. And all your labor? HA!
You're building what you want for you. It's a labor of love all the way.
We're not alone in this however. I was at a car show and saw a T bucket for sale for $12,000. It was a work of art. He had over $30,000. Into it and every weekend for the last 5 years.

[carbonsoup]

wow. regarding rigging prices, i would seriously consider Garhauer marine hardware. Im not trying be an internet ass, I am sure you have seen their stuff before however, I was at the Oakland boat show a couple years back when I was ogling other hardware and ran into the Garhauer booth and I was really impressed with the level of durability, fit and finish... I say this as I looked over your spreadsheet and saw some prices that made me wretch... for example, the low lead cars from Schaefer are 312 bux, yikes. The low lead cars that I have been looking at from Garhauer are 100 for the pair and I prefer the solid SS look and feel of Garhauer over the plastic Harken stuff. Now, I say this with the caveat that I am not racing, if that were the case I might reconsider as weight might make a difference... but even then...

Last fall, Garhauer had a sale and I bought a new main traveler (MT-2) for 200 bux. I admit, the bling makes me smile, but I dont feel weird about it cuz I only spent 200, not 500, or more.

[Bill]

I can second the Garhauer post. Take a look at their hardware:

http://garhauermarine.com/

They've got a 20% off sale going on some stuff until June 30.

[Commander 147]

Well guys while I appreciate your attemps to send me in a more cost effective direction at this point it is already too late for that. The order has been placed and will ship to me on Tuesday.

As far as Garhauer goes I have to admit to not having a lot of experience with their hardware. The pieces I have seen appeared to be very well built and strong. They also appeared large for the application but that may have been someone specifying something that was the wrong part for the job. I guess my lack of experience with Garhauer is why I did not consider their material when I was specing out the material for Destiny.

Harken on the other hand I have a lot of experience working with. And I can't remember having a Harken product fail when it was properly sized for the application. And while I am well aware that they cost more than some other brands the reliability is worth it to me. And hey, I grew up in Wisconsin close to where their facility is. We have similar roots :-)

I will see about getting a Garhauer full line catalog and give them more consideration for items I need going forward.

[Commander 147]

I have not placed the order on my sails as of yet so if you guys have some suggestions now would be the time to let me know.

I have attached a PDF of the specs I have put together for the sailmaker to price from. If you have suggestions please let me know.

[Bill]

We've had great luck & good prices with Hogin Sales in Alameda CA (they will ship). Our top ODCA Ariel class boats used this loft. If you contact them, ask if the Ariel Class discount is still available.

http://www.hoginsails.com/

Here in SF Bay we use a 110 during the summer and a 120 or 150 for the lighter winter breezes. Check this thread on track placement as it's different for each sail:

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...rack-placement

[Commander 147]

Bill

Thank you for your reply.

I have sent an e-mail to Hogin Sails for an intial contact. We will see what comes of it.

Also I appreciate the link for the track placement. Tonight when I am too tired to keep working on the boat I will read through all of that.

[Commander227]

My old employee Tim bought the sail loft from me before I left SYC.
He built the sails for C227, C157, C299, C256 & A... can't remember the#.
I'm sure he'd be happy to give you a bid.
Tim Carlson
Sail Crafters
952-693-6089
He just finished a beautiful Asym for C157 and is delivering my new Code Zero tomorrow. I can't wait.

[Commander 147]

Thanks Mike

I will give him a call to discuss it.

So I want to see pictures of you flying the code zero. And I will be interested in hearing all about it also. After the initial order of sails I will look for a light air sail also.

[Commander 147]

Forward one is held in with wing nuts and the back one where I should not need to access is just screwed in.

[Commander152]

Forward one is held in with wing nuts and the back one where I should not need to access is just screwed in.

Has anyone kept the measurements for these dividers? I'd love to make them for my Commander (152 -- Friendship). I can, of course, measure, but it is awkward. If anyone has the measurements I would really appreciate them. I figure I can make one out of peg board.

Here is the picture: http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...1&d=1371602193

thanks, Mike

[carbonsoup]

fyi, I bought a new main from Bacon Sails in Annapolis last summer. I bought your exact specs from them except for the 'quick cringle' and the extra cunningham at the second reef. They offered me a couple different 'builds', however, I selected the 'offshore' version which meant that it was triple stitched and a slightly heavier weight. It was made in Hong Kong at the same factory that makes Hood sails. Out the door, it was 1380 total, no shipping as I picked it up.

[Commander 147]

Matt

So far the only pricing I have gotten back is from my local Doyle loft. They price things two ways. If they build it locally and do all of the measuring and then check the fit of the sail after it is made the cost for the main is $1,475.00. If I do all of the measuring and they design the sail here and then have a loft in China build it with the same materials that they would use here the cost is $1.195.00.

The total cost for all three sails built locally from the Doyle loft is $3,715.00 or built in China the total cost is $3,235.00. Or, $480.00 differance for them to drive up to me (an hour and 15 minutes one way) and do the measuring and then again to check the fit afterwards. I felt like their pricing was reasonable either way. We will see what the other two people have to say.

[Commander 147]

I have been busy working on Destiny as much as possible. I glassed in some plywood under the deck and cockpit where I will be running wires for all of my electrical. After all that was in place I started painting the remaining areas inside the boat before I start the electrical installation. That is until I ran out of paint and had to order some more. This old hull is sucking up paint like a sponge.

I also finished all of the dividers that will keep things from falling into the keel and got them painted.

When I got my new hardware in I decided I was very pleased that the folks at Rigging Only talked me into the stainless Anderson winches. There is a picture of one of them below. They appear VERY solidly built and will fit my winch risers quite well. The new hole pattern is however slightly larger than the old one so the second picture below is of the repair I'm doing to the risers. I filled the old holes with thickened epoxy and then glassed over the top and underside with a layer of 1708. I made backer blocks and covered them with cellophane tape so they would not stick to the epoxy. Then I clamped the risers to the top of my bench to let the epoxy cure. I will sand and fair out the tops before they get painted.

This morning I finished making a louver that will go in the hole where the outboard tiller handle used to extend into the cockpit from the lazarette. I plan to stow fenders, dock lines extra PFDs etc. there and I wanted ventilation to keep the mold away so I decided on a louver. I put the first coat of Cetol on it also. A picture is below.

[Commander 147]

One of the projects I have been avoiding for a long time is removing the added 500 Lb. lead pig in Destiny's keel which will be replaced with 4 - 132 Lb. batteries that will power the new electric drive. So 528 Lbs. will go back in.

I first tried Mike's (C227) method of cutting the lead down the center but I was not getting anywhere fast that way. So since I always planned on putting a new teak and holly floor in I decided I would just open up the floor and lift it out intact.

Having a 2-1/2 acre lot with literally thousands of trees on it I have gotten to know my tree removal guy pretty well. And since he was in the neighborhood cutting down trees for a neighbor I called him up and asked him if he had his tractor with him. He did and so I asked him to bring it over and help me lift the lead out.

Now I am starting to put the floor back together with white oak structural supports to help carry the load of the new batteries and tie the floor back together again.