Good to see you back on the boards, Jerry. Once again your eye for fit and fourm is spot on and I don't believe for a second it was a "challange for your skills". The transition from trim to outside looks like it should be, simple and smooth. I too await more pictures of Destiny.
My home has a keel.
Ditto that. Good to hear from you Jerry.
Mike
Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)
Thanks Ben, Tony and Mike
I have some serious catching up to do here since I have not even peeked in for a while.
The deck recore on the starboard side was simialr in scope to the port side but differant in location. On the bow I had a section on the starboard side that was mush. The side decks were not as bad however so the amount of work was similar. A few pictures below.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
I've been enjoying the cooler temps lately and getting a little more work done on Destiny. I finally got around to making the new coaming boards for Destiny and the very complicated to construct transition pieces that tie the coaming boards into the cabin sides. I still have some rounding over of edges and fine tuning to do but I want to take them off again before I do that and before I take them off I need to modify the winch stands so they fit perfectly where I want them.
I had so many parts and pieces in the shop the place was getting cluttered so I started installing some to get them out of the way. I have blue painter's tape covering the light gray countertops to protect them from scratches I would have to sand out.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
Looking awesome Jerry. I love your galley set, is the area aft of it to remain as berths?
Mike
Yes the plan is to leave the area aft of the galley as berths. I will likely sleep on one of the quarter berths when I'm on the boat overnight. They are longer than the v-berth.
Tony
I have always been a function first and then make the form as good as you can after function sort of guy. So I take your comment of "clean and purposeful" as a complement that I have acheived my goal.
Ebb
The blue countertops are actually gray countertops covered in blue painter's tape to protect them during construction. The tops are 1/4" thick corian.
I've been doing some plugging on the port coaming board already. I searched through close to 1000 B.F. of lumber to find the two pieces I used for the coamings and one of these had some worm holes so I had to make them disappear. When I take the boards back off and into the shop I will plug the screw holes and do the rest of the sanding etc. before I start applying finish.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
Before I took off the coaming boards to finish up the work on them and put finish on them I wanted to make sure my winch risers would work correctly at the location I wanted to put them. Back when Pearson installed them originally (at a differant location than I chose) they cut the top of the coaming to be flush with the top of the riser and there were these long curves in the top of the coaming which I did not like.
I was quite suprised when the first riser landed perfectly on the side deck as you can see in the first picture below.
No such luck on the second riser though, when I installed it I had a 1/8" gap under the forward end and 3/8" gap under the aft end of it per the second picture below.
So I cut up 13 pieces of 1708 biax and alternated full length pieces with progressively shorter pieces as I laid it up on top of some visqueen on the deck. Then I bolted the riser to the coaming board which pressed it down into the glass and resin so it could cure. When it is hard I will grind the glass flush with the original base, do any fairing needed and they will both then fit perfectly after painting.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
I still need to do a little fairing compound on the edge to make the seam completely disappear but I wanted to show how nice the glass took care of the gap.
I also need to do a repair to the right side on the top of the base that was broke prior to me buying Destiny. But the rest of the repairs can wait until I start mixing epoxy for something a little bigger than this work.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
about quarter sawn mahogany is the ribbon stripped apearance.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
I totally agree with Mike, Jerry. That is one beautiful galley. It follows suit along with the other work you have done on her-clean and purposeful. BTW, we have been having cooler weather here too, around zero, I hate it...
My home has a keel.
Beautiful work, Jerry!
Sweet use of space and pull-outs.
Especially the see-thru drawer!
There's a lot of unseen work doing that.
And your glowing art-deco stack bracing the bulkheading is a great touch!
The blue counter top looks cool - could be formica, looks right.
Looking at those fancy brand new COAMINGS:
Happen to be watching daytime TV, Woodwrights Shop, I think.
Saw a neat tip there on a good way to pare down plugs in screw holes with your low angle plane.
Something I tried years ago with total disaster.
[Now, I knock the tall stuff of the plug off with a sharp chisel, high enough so that the slant of the break shows which way the grain goes.
Then pare the stub down flush with the chisel from the short side of the break which is always an angle - still sometimes gouging the work.]
I think he used a plug saw of some sort - that doesn't mark the work - to cut the plug short but still above the surface of the work.
The tip is to stick blue tape about 1/2" in on the bottom along both sides of the mouth on the low angle plane.
He showed pieces maybe about 2 1/2" long.
Thereby raising the plane the thickness of the tape off the work, so that only the plug is engaged when moving the plane over the work.
The tape also covers the corners of the blade in the mouth so that if you press down unevenly, the corners won't gouge the surface.
Of course the woodwright's iron was obviously sharp and he had a lite touch.
.....You know this trick, but maybe someone else didn't
Last edited by ebb; 12-24-2012 at 12:11 AM.
Beautiful!
Kyle
C-65 Lucky Dawg
One particular modification that you have made, internal halyard masthead blocks, is one i am definitely interested. Once I get some headspace for this modification I will be in touch, most probably in April/may when I attack the mast and spars. One question that I did have; it would seem likely that the halyard could get caught over the top or to the side of the block, during squally weather which would most surely cut the halyard in quick order. Had you considered a SS 'chock' welded on and bridging the entryway for the halyard? I admit this could add leverage of a twisted halyard to bend the entire assembly causing more serious problems...
I don't think it is possible for the halyard to get hung up on the edge of the sheeve (where there is only approx. 1/16" of clearance on each side) or on the top because it is rounded and sloping down so I can't really see a need to do what you are suggesting (if I understand correctly). Of course only time will tell for sure when she is getting used.Originally Posted by carbonsoup
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
I have installed two of the halyard block set ups from Jerry's drawing on different boats. It is a great mod... Have not had any issues. One change I would consider how ever is to make the jib halyard block lower than the main. The reason is twofold; one is to increase clearance between the block and the furler's luff tube and if it is a couple inches lower it will eliminate the need for a halyard wrap preventer. Like I said it works well as is, but if I were to have another made I would lower the jib block.
Mike
C227
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