Commander 147

[ebb]

Kicking a dead horse is the expression, but for the record:

Titebond III passes ANSI/HPVA Type 1 Specs.
Type 1 testing involves using birch plywood-like laminations cut into 1" X 3" pieces
boiling them for 4 hours, then baking for 20 hrs at 145 degrees.
They are boiled again for 4 more hours, then cooled using running water.
The pieces are sheer tested while wet.
One assumes the wood will sheer but not at the gluelines.

Generally woodworkers don't trust PVA aliphatic resin glues, probably because they grew up with them and became prejudiced one way or another.

The test above looks pretty rigorous, right?
Still, there are some that say over time, years later, in damp conditions Titebond III will creep (or are they remembering Titebond II?) Where's the proof?

The ingredients are proprietary. but it is a 'plastic resin' glue. So is Weldwood a plastic resin glue. Both glues require in gluing up laminations that the veneers if ripped have the SAW MARKS removed. Woodworkers say to glue only freshly milled veneers.
So prep is all important. You have to use the glue according to their specs. (Then boil your work for 8 hours)

In curved laminations
each piece of the laminate has a side under compression and a side in tension. That's a lot of stress we ask any glue to overcome. And that is why thinner veneers are better than thicker iones.

Some insurance for a curved lamination using Titebond III might be in DRIVING some fastenings through the stack near the ends of the finished piece.
Hardwood dowels might be used at right angle to the lams - glued in with the same glue.
One or two at either end, say, of a tiller could look decorative and might keep the piece from wanting to move over time. Just an idea!
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Titebond III is not toxic - you can work without gloves.
Franklin literature, while full of hype about Titebond III, NOWHERE mentions that the product can be used for curved laminations.