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Thread: Commander 147

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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    onward

    Humps.
    Since the Commander was originally laid up in a female mold,
    the assumption with a whole lot of certainty is that there would
    NOT BE ANY FACTORY BUMPS IN THE HULL.
    That is bumps that stick out on the hull.

    Any bumps would come from a repair.
    If you have access to the inside of the boat opposite any bumps on the outside,
    you can probably look down at the roving that Pearson put in and see that it is original, or not.
    Pearson's work is often competent but funky - and anybody else's repairs of any age will stand out like a sore thumb.

    Sitting here in California I can easily say that I would grind ANY humps flat. Carefully. A bump could be some kind of wierd blister. Should find out what the hell the bumps are. And then fair, repair, and lay on the 6oz.
    BUT befor you start grinding a bump:
    If you look down into the bilge and you are seeing the signature Pearson layup and you are sure there is a bump on the ouitside - this is not possible.
    I would use a batten to REALLY MAKE SURE that any bumps are really bumps and not an area that has hollows around an island that is not actually standing out. Hollows are more likely than bumps in a nonrestored hull.



    [The 6oz cloth is not going to add thickness or much strength. Most will agree it is the best way to add a thick supported layer of epoxy barrier. The cloth is light and easy to apply. Another layer or two could be considered if you truly have a thin factory lamination in the area. Put the smaller piece on first, the a larger, then the largest over all. Seems backwards but I think fairing will be easier and there are fewer seams.]


    The best test for hull soundness is thumping it. If there is a dull thud you have no other choice but grinding down to green fiberglass. You have to grind all white fibers away.

    Build back up thin layers so that removal is easy. If you have to.
    A couple bendy wood fairing battens for horizontal and vertical testing are good. You can pick out hollows and bumps real easy with these.

    A piece of thin, sharp, stiff gauge metal is good for dragging over just applied fairing compound. Slather the compound on, then drag the steel over the surface, bending the metal to conform to the general curve of the hull.
    Imco
    Last edited by ebb; 07-20-2009 at 06:11 PM.

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