Commander 147

[Lucky Dawg]

I'm with you Mike. Serious "WOW" factor. Jerry, I want to see your masterful take on the teak cockpit sole as the pièce de résistance for this brand-new-old gal!

Thanks for the info on installing rubrail. I toyed with using the predrilled Eagle moulding 12" oc holes (with the same 5200 process you describ) to install the rail - therefore with half as many screw holes through the topsides - and then screwing the6" oc stainless rubrail just to the moulding. Thoughts?

[Commander 147]

I'm with you Mike. Serious "WOW" factor. Jerry, I want to see your masterful take on the teak cockpit sole as the pièce de résistance for this brand-new-old gal!

Thanks for the info on installing rubrail. I toyed with using the predrilled Eagle moulding 12" oc holes (with the same 5200 process you describ) to install the rail - therefore with half as many screw holes through the topsides - and then screwing the6" oc stainless rubrail just to the moulding. Thoughts?

Dang, I forgot until you asked this question that I had done exactly that (at least to a point)! I attached the vinyl molding first and then the S.S. rub rail afterwards and I used a 5/8" long screw to attach the S.S. rub rail to the vinyl with the following exceptions. At both ends and at a maximum of 3' apart I ran screws through the S.S. rail and all the way into the fiberglass. I found some of the holes in the S.S. rub rail landed directly on top of the screws for the vinyl so at those locations I used the same screw for both. So at all of the ends of the S.S. rub rail, and where ever screws landed on top of each other and, a maximum of 3' apart I had screws that went through both the stainless and the vinyl all the way into the fiberglass. Sorry I forgot to mention that in my previous post.