Commander 147

[ebb]

That's a great point there, that the glue used has to be crystaline structure
so that creep in laminations doesn't happen after set.
I wonder if the jury is still out on Titebond 3 - which doesn't seem to be a 'yellow' glue.
For someone else reading this, even 'structural' epoxy squeeze out can be a problem in this quite technical glue lam. Epoxy glue ups get starved joints with pressure clamping.

40 years ago our only cabinet and furniture glue was called 'brown' glue (creative, huh?) Or powder glue.
It doesn't leave a glue line on light colored woods.
The most masterful Weldwood glue-up I've ever seen were some varnished spruce masts and spars for a 48' schooner.... What's MORE exterior?
You had to search real close to see any seam at all! NO glue lines! High pressure clamping!
But NO purple resorcinol lines.

I'm assuming these not 'waterproof' beauties are still going strong after 3 decades.
You can't fudge this kind of gluing.
By all intents, if you wanted to, the A/C strongback could also be made with Weldwood and perfectly milled hardwood lumber.

In the hands of a master the master makes the rules. Or maybe to say the rules get broken.
Nice, look forward to your next move

[Ariel 109]

Very nice job Jerry, can't wait to see it installed!

Just reporting that the tiller I glued up with Titebond 3 last year is still holding tight together. Put a coat of Epifanes varnish on it and the coamings yesterday evening during one of the brief spring moments we've been allowed in the New York area this year, now we're back to cold and rainy.

Ben

[Commander 147]

Thanks Ben

Tonight was supposed to be the coolest night we are likely to see for the next 6 or 7 months and we are supposed to get down to 47 degrees before dawn. I just know it felt really good working out there tonight and I pushed it longer than I should have for a residential neighborhood. I quit working about 10:15 this evening and I have the piece almost ready to install. A few trim cuts on the ends to work myself into a perfect fit and some sanding and varnish and it will be ready to go in. I need to glue up the second one for the other side but now I have all the procedures and jigs built so that should go much quicker.

I'm guessing your tiller will probably hold together for a good long time. Especially if you keep her varnished. What you might notice after time is some of the laminations are very slightly offset from the laminations they are next to. Or possibly the glue lines becoming more prominent or even feel a slight ridge at the glue lines. It would be interesting to hear the results a couple years down the road.

How are the deck repairs going?

[Ariel 109]

Under all that varnish I think that tiller would stick together with only wheat paste. If I had to do it over again I'd have used epoxy. I've made a few scrap wood kitchen cutting boards using Titebond 3 and have notice some separation along the ends of the glue joints. But in defense of the glue I don't think I kept these boards clamped up a very long time.

The deck is about ready to paint, some more sanding and then I can prime. That old deck paint is tougher than concrete. And I've been thankfully busy with some interesting work projects, so I haven't been able to spend too much time working on Noesis. I should be sailing soon.

Ben