Insulating the hull questions.

[ebb]

Kent, Has some great qualities, doesn't it?.
One is that it's everything proof, and easy to clean. MSDS says it's made of extruded recycled polyolefins and mineral fillers. So not knowing anything about the manufacture, it may be ground-up polyetylene and p.propylene from the landfill - with who knows what mineral fillers (cabosil?) - that's heated, melted and extruded flat to make continuous 4' wide 8ft/10ft panels.
1/16" stuff has a how-to video that shows a bendy but stiff material like veneer being glued to drywall.
Comes in various unknown thicknesses up to 3/16".

Long open time waterborne (latex) trowel cement is recommended. Interesting they advise troweling it on one surface only. Tech guide says wall, video shows panel.

For a nice waterproof surface this is the stuff. Too bad it is so stiff. The thin material can be rolled (good for shipping) but cannot do compound curves. Ebb's vinyl material is way more floppy, but actually will also NOT do compound/concave surfaces. It will cheat a little if you are covering small areas. It also soils, maybe because I insisted on installing the material matt side out. It's also vinyl and will never be as inert as Plas-tex.

Polyolefins are thermo-plastics. Wonder if the stuff can be heated (hot water, electric blanket, heat gun*) and encouraged to take a compound curve.... like to cover insulation already installed against the hull.
Or to bend around corners, if you have any carpentered radius corners in the cabin?
It just may be too stiff to cover a foam rubber insulation.

[Somebody will come along who wants to glue cedar strips to his ensolite insulated hull - to get that varnished traditional look....
And probably be successful!!!]

APAC564 and other waterborne green adhesives are recommend for plywood, concrete, terrazzo, concrete patching compounds, gypsum. These are essentially porus surfaces that may allow minimal evaporation the paste needs to transform into rubber cement. APAC564 should not be used when RH is above 80% - should be applied when the RH at the site is falling - warming & getting drier.
Vinyl, tile, linoleum, Plas-tec are not porus. This adhesive needs to evaporate water to set. It won't bond wet. If both surfaces to be bonded are non-porus the only way to glue is to trowel it on and let it get tacky, partially evaporate. Then carefully position the panel/piece onto the substrate and roll or press evenly over the entire surface.


Kurt,
who proposed using pink and blue Home Depo foam panels as secondary bulkheads in his boat remodeling, might use Plas-tex to make a great surface on the foam. Plas-tex says it is impervious to water (along with a list of two dozen other usual suspects).

Would probably use Chem-tec M-1 polyether in the boat to seal corners and transitions to other materials.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________
* Perhaps panels of certain dimension could be steamed? A large flat pan of propane fired boiling water in a box - wire rack above the pan - maybe the Plas-tex gets floppy (but still holds dimension) at a certain temp. When 'done', lift lid, remove from the steamer quickly place in position against the insulation on the hull, press a pillow against the hot panel and brace it with a stick. Panel is thin, won't hold heat, cools immediately, hopefully with a slight belly against the rubber.
If this formed Plas-tec crust is completely bonded to the softer but relatively firm insulation, it just might work.