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Thread: Commander #256 (Ceili)

  1. #106
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283
    Ebb,
    I hadn't thought of using Lanocote for a release agent, but it makes sense. I know exactly what you mean when you say "agressive" sealants! It would seem that the previous owner of Ceili did not know the difference between bedding compounds (sealants) and those designed as either dual purpose or with an emphasis of "Adhesive". I have had a heck of time removing the coamings and companion way hatch slider rail supports.

    As for the thru hull, you take is one I hadn't considered, never crossed my mind. Should work though. It's not like we are plumbing a pressurized system. As for the threads, I'm sure teflon tape would work, but I think it be prudent to at least bed with the least agressive "sealant", the lip of the thru hull, where she sits down against the hull.

    I haven't installed the adapter plates, thru-hulls yet because I'm doing or rather, will be doing some other stuff under the cockpit and it's easier for me to get under there with as little as possible jabbing my twisted body. I almost got my self stuck under there not too long ago.

    So you went with a Lexan companionway hatch, eh? I cored the stock one with 1/2" end grain balsa then an inner skin, but I definately will not get the illumination that you will have achieved.

    Thanks for the tip on bedding bronze nuts for a clean, concealed look without resorting to thru-bolting.
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  2. #107
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    I have decided to core the cabin trunk sides.

    Okay, I like making more work for myself, but.....I have decided to core the cabin trunk sides. My reasoning is mainly to accomodate the future opening port lights I will install, in place of the original fixed port lights.

    Any thoughts / comments??

    I have decided to use 3/4" end grain balsa for the core. I am very familiar with using this material and done properly I have no concerns with it.

    Hmmm, opening port lights, I am leaning towards Spartan Marine. Even though there are not a lot of suppliers / manufacturers the only two I have narrowed it down to are Spartan and New Found Metals.

    Ebb, I believe you have Spartan bronze, opening portlights in hand. Are you impressed with their design and quality?
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  3. #108
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621
    Wholely Catfish!!!! Core the sides?
    W O W
    Well, just banged into the brain: you'll do it from the INSIDE, right?
    Maybe you saw some of my posts relating to cabin sides.
    It's a heavy duty molding that gets heavier at the deck and maybe in the turn of the dog house.
    From inside at least you'll be standing mostly to do the work.


    Have to dig out those Spartan lights, haven't seen them in years.
    When I got them I remember I was horrified....
    them looked to me like something you'd find on a WWII Liberty Ship!

    One might work as a kellet on yer anchor rode.

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283
    Ebb,
    I fell out of the chair laughing so hard at your initial assessment of the Spartan portlights. You are so funny!

    Yes, most definately done from the inside, don't think one could core the cabin truck sides any other way.

    IMHO one advantage commander folk have over ariels is that there is no liner to contend with. Of course there are pros and cons to both configurations.

    I picked up the 3/4" scrimmed end grain balsa panels today. My local source for glass work supplies, and other related marine finishes happens to be Eastern Burlap Trading company. They are located up in Norfolk, VA. They cater to the marine building industry and their on hand inventory supports this. They also ship daily, and are the supplier for many mid atlantic boat building companies.
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  5. #110
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    4
    Chance,

    I have been following your work religiously, and I am awed by both your skill and attention to detail. My apologies if someone has already asked, but why did you decide to replace the thru hulls in their original position rather than moving them above the waterline? I am considering doing the latter (thus removing all thru hulls from my boat) and was wondering if there was some logic I had missed.

    Thanks,

    Joe

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283
    Joe,
    Thank you. Hmmm....attempting to move the cockpit drains above the water line could present problems:

    1) The commander's cockpit sole is sloped forward, thus that's why the original drain ports are located in the forward Port and Starboard corners.
    2) Pearson's original glassed in drains (on the cockpit underside) are sloped back aft.
    3) The terminous point of these glassed in FRP tubes (where one would attach the 1-1/2" hose) are actually located below the water line.
    4) I did not want to disturb the original configuration of the drains in the cockpit, nor the original glassed in FRP channels / pipe.
    5) To route above the water line, you would have to change all the above.
    6) There would be inadequate gravity drainage of the cockpit if you did not re-invent the above, because......the drain tubing would have to actually have an upward slope to get above the waterline.
    7) Best drainage IMHO is as close to centerline as possible, while maintainiung downward slope.
    8) If the drains were to be run outboard, then when heeled, the upward one would have reduced flow or worse, not even drain.
    9) If you were to run the drain tubing all the way aft, then you would most like have to penetrate the watertight structural bulkhead to gain access to the aft lazarette. This I did not want to do.
    10) Rule number one for me, is to do no harm. Pearson had the cockpit drains configured nicely with the exception of not having a bonifide sea cock to manage them. This IMHO was due not because of know how, but because of $$. These were production boats, not custom built to orders. A price point was established and that dictates why things are done or better yet, not done.
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  7. #112
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Close ups of former sink drain glassed in.

    I have chosen not to re-install the cabinet containing the drawer and little sink. This resulted in an opportunity to permanently close the sink drain that penetrated the hull.
    Attached Images      
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  8. #113
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Port Bulk Head close ups

    Here's a few more views of the Port bulkhead installation.
    Attached Images          
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  9. #114
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Starboard bulkhead close ups

    Here's the Starboard bulkhead in place. I am not re-installing the cabinet containing the sink / drawer. That will remain upstairs in the garage.
    Attached Images        
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  10. #115
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Forward hatch ready for final fitment and paint

    Here's the forward hatch ready for final phase.
    Attached Images  
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  11. #116
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Port and Starboard QTR Berth shelves.

    Here's the quarter berth shelves tabed in and complete. I still have the finish trim (fiddle rail) to install.
    Attached Images        
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  12. #117
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Mini bulkhead under fwd section of cockpit sole

    A little make over in this area. I'll be installing the battery box just forward of this area, between here and aft of the companionway ladder.
    Attached Images      
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  13. #118
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283
    The cold weather has really made forward progress on "Ceili", extremely slow, however.......I have started to assemble the materials needed to replace her old rudder with a completely new one that I will be building.

    Thanks to the association for the rudder bearing I just received in the mail today. Additionally I have:

    The silicone bronze (Alloy 655 - Everdur) is forthcoming, but at least it's on order.

    The the marine ply (Meranti, BS1088 standard)

    Will also have a new rudder shoe cast. (See rudder shoe thread)

    As for the cabin sides. I have glassed in the old fixed portlight openings and have the coring (3/4 end grain balsa) in a holding pattern waiting for warmer weather.

    I'll post photos of the above as things progress, weather permitting.
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  14. #119
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Rudder shoe casting in progress

    Ceili's new rudder shoe is moving forward.

    The pattern will be with the foundry first part of this coming week.

    If anyone desires to purchase one now, the cost is $325.00. If your interested, speak up now, or at least by this Sunday, January 30th.

    For details see "rudder shoe" thread.

    Thanks.
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

  15. #120
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Camden, NC
    Posts
    283

    Rudder parts

    Just received the new rudder shoe that will grace Ceili when I replace the rudder this year.

    My compliments for an extremely beautiful job on the silicon bronze rudder shoe go to Fred up in Washington State (Fox Island) for his mastery craftsmanship, and excellent machine work!

    When I am done I will have replaced the entire rudder assembly to include:
    1) Rudder foil
    2) Shaft
    3) Delrin Bearing
    4) Shoe
    5) Tiller head assembly
    6) Tiller

    Still have to source out the machine work on the shaft but I have been waiting for the shoe to arrive to ensure I get the correct fitment on the lower end of the shaft where it rest in the shoe. I'll have the shaft machined at the lowest end of the thousands of an inch clearance IAW the drawings.

    Unfortuanately I no longer have internet capabilities at my residence, which explains why I sit here at the public library in Elizabeth City, NC and why I haven't posted any updated photos recently.

    Happy sailing.
    Respectfully,
    Chance Smith
    (Formerly) Sea Sprite 23 #760 (Heritage)
    (Formerly) Commander #256 (Ceili)

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