Here it goes. I am going to start from the begining. Here she is.
Untouched by anyone for who knows how long.
Here it goes. I am going to start from the begining. Here she is.
Untouched by anyone for who knows how long.
last week I had a small window to cut the outer skin off. Things went as I had planned. I followed the standard procedure of using a skil saw to follow the nonskid pattern. I had commited to installing new decks all the way around. which caused some headache because there were some git rot treated parts of the deck that were quite difficult to remove.
With lots of help from my cousin have stripped the interior, removed most of the hardware and wood from the boat. with the decks removed back to the winches we started to recore process. The lay-up schedule is as follows from the inner skin moving up. I first put one layer of 8 oz. cloth over the inner skin to cover any holes that i created taking the balsa out. Some parts of the core was still bonded pretty good to the skin thanks to the liberal use of git rot. I didn't manage to do anything to bad except on the starbord fore deck. I kind ripped 1ft hole in the skin. You would think I would have learned to have some patients in the last 32 years.
Following the 8oz. layer went one layer of woven roving, then another 8oz. layer. I then put baltek mat on the entire surface to add some stiffness, with 1/4'' plywood over that. I quickly decided against more than one layer of baltek mat because it takes alot of resin to wet out properly. about a gallon for one layer. Ouch! I have only used it on small projects before. I did not realize how much resin it would use on the deck.
Next I mixed up a couple of batches with chopped glass filler and filled the edges all the way around the deck with the thickened epoxy.
Once that cured, my cousin took an angle grinder and ground down the old glass around the cabin top and the toe rail to about an 1/8'' thick.
then we put kevlar strips all on all the way around the toe rail and the cabin top where they met the deck. followed by a layer of chopped mat that I wanted to use as a leveling course. I did not realize that chopped mat and epoxy were not compatable until I was done. Evidently the binder that holds the mat together needs a solvent to dissolve it. Oops! Luckily it sands pretty easy. After that was done we put down another layer of 8oz. and one more layer of kevlar around the inner and outer deck perimeter. followed by a 3ft long kevlar patch at the chainplate location. I thought I had more pics loaded. I will take some tomorrow of the kevlar at the chainplates. It looks pretty sweet. and I think it would take a pretty major impact if the boom hitting the water before any damage would take place on the deck.
here is the interior with plywood stringers glassed in place. And the rudder shoe. We cut out the water tank. It was just a pile of rust. the mast base is pretty much junk. The bulkhead under the mast base does not have any rot, but the core material is compressed. Any thoughts on the green corrosion at the rudder shoe? Also, what is the block at the base of the mast for? more pics comoing soon.
My Ariel had that too. No idea. Boom vang? Turning block for lines? 2 screws in the deck doesn't seem strong enough for either...Originally Posted by josh#74
Mike
Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)
SEARCH then ask
Here's some rudder shoe discussion, but there is more. Just search on "rudder shoe."
http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...read.php?t=583
Josh, looks like a great job!
Hope you got out of that mat binder pickle.
There is a mat-like product called 'x-mat' that I have always assumed was generally available, but has not proven to be.
Called Knytex - it is an epoxy friendly mat loosely sewn* to a thin double bias woven roving. I'm sure it'll work with poly and vinyl esters.
It's available from TapPlastics. 19oz and 24oz - the stuff gobbles up laminating epoxy.
It has equal strength rating to woven fabric and is very useful because it likes to be persuaded into corners and is also great for tabbing.
If you don't mess with it while fitting, it is stiff enough to place into position exactly. Same way wetting out, if you don't mess with it using a brush, you can get good wet-out with a green squeegy.
It's stiff when dry and gets conformable when wet. I usual cut darts on one side of a long corner tabbing just to get it to fit better and easier to wet-out.
I've used very little woven fabric in Little Gull's refit, using x-mat for everything.
Have always wished for a lighter version, less thirsty,
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*NOT "STITCH BONDED" as it says in the TapPlastics description.
Last edited by ebb; 11-19-2008 at 09:36 AM.
I am going to get some of the kyntex. 13$ a yard. here. I got sucked into the 2$ a yard trap of the chopped mat. We ground all of the non-skid off of the cabin and stern decks. WOW! that was not fun. At all!
here is a pic of the kevlar deck patch. it looks bad because there is dust from the non-skid everywhere. more pics of the cabin and stern decks. What is the blue? factory non-skid/?
Another problem is all of the wood is beyond repair. I purchased a large amount of reclaimed deck boards made from mahogany, that I plan on using for the interior and maybe for the companionway boards.
I purchased new teak hand rails last month. I had planned on just rubbing teak oil on them. If I decided to varnish them. Would the teak oil cause a problem with the varnish?
I've never had problems going over oiled wood with varnish, but have heard of people who did, think alot depends on how soon you varnish after oiling, and the quality of the oil and varnish.
Since they are new, My advice is to finish them with what you plan to use for the long term, no potential hassles at all that way. Ken.
Edit: Recored one of the soft spots on my side deck, (three to go) and just noticed that my coring ended farther ahead than shown here, mine extends to just barely into the cockpit area where it becomes solid glass. Any one know if it's 'normal' for coring to vary that much? Is it a Pearson thing, Kind of like no two Tritons or Ariels are the same?
Ken
Second edit:
Mine also has the bails near the mast, along with three others on the doghouse. I have that webbing strap and stainless plate style vang deal with a clip on the end that fits the bails, but the bails themsalves don't seem strong enough to use as mounts for it. They are located in the right spotsfor it's use though.
Last edited by kendall; 11-19-2008 at 11:30 AM.
Josh:
question - "Also, what is the block at the base of the mast for?"
i've generally seen this used to secure the downhaul or cunningham. This was a source for water entry into the coach roof on A-231. i elected to remove the fitting and move the downhaul to the base of the mast.
P.S. while you are this far in, take a look at the core under the mast step. after 40 years of service, there is a good chance it needs attention or replacement with solid 'glass.
cheers,
bill@ariel231
Last edited by bill@ariel231; 11-19-2008 at 03:51 PM.
You guys is correct I think. Just had a ride on a Triton that still had an adjustable gooseneck AND a cunningham rigged. It's main purpose seems to be to tighten up the luff - because you didn't get it tight enough with the halyard. I'm sure there is more finesse to this then that.
Little Gull, which I bought not knowing, came with a fixed gooseneck on what looked the original boom. Had already been modernized - if that is the term. If a boomvang is fitted you can't have an adjustable gooseneck.
On 338 there was a fairlead type eye on the deck between the mast pad and the dog-house rise. A decommissioning photo shows it to be an insignificant piece of gear - and if I remember, it had no back-up plate inside. Didn't look serious at all.
What is the skinny on this?
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Just discovered that a Cunningham is a grommet in the luff of a mainsail with a FIXED GOOSENECK used to tighten the luff.
Would assume you wouldn't need to go to the deck to tighten the luff but just to the fixed boom or gooseneck.
A sliding gooseneck is original to a roller-reefed main so that the end of the boom could be adjusted up when reefed. So said on a Brion Toss page, But I may have misinterpreted. Again.
Did Ariel's and Commander's have roller reef booms originally? Maybe an option?
But a tight luff can be achieved with a boom downhaul to a block at the foot of the mast - no cunningham - if the boom has a sliding gooseneck. Kind of a which came first: the goose or the egg???
Last edited by ebb; 11-20-2008 at 08:55 AM.
Short answer, yes. I believe the gear is called a "down haul" when the goose neck is not fixed.
Wow !! it looks like you are doing a great job on #74 . Is this the Ariel that was on craigs list in corvallis ?? I have # 367 in Newport Oregon ,if you want to see an Ariel floating just let me know and we could go sailing........Elliott
I can't believe I did not realize that was a down haul. I was just looking at the goosneck on sunday, noticing that it is on a rail. JUST LIKE MY LAST BOAT! DUH!
And yes bill, You are right. The core is a combination of compressed and rotten. Maybe because of the latter. I might as well add a tabernacle.
Anyway, this is the ariel that was in corvalis, I would really like to go for a sail. I'll send you a pm.
The Weather has has become quite wet here lately. I have been decided to cut the mahogany slats for the side of the hull. And re-finish as much of the old wood as I could salvage. I previously thought that most of the wood was to old and rotten to save. But once I checked my bank account I realized the wood was actually just fine. and just need to be sanded. In some places it need a lot of sanding. My coamings are probably a 1/4" thinner than they were when I took them off the boat.
But sand paper is so much cheaper than teak I just don't see any reason to replace them right now. here are a couple more pics. I put about 5 heavy coats of teak oil on the mahogany slats hoping it would build up enough so that I didn't have to varnish all of the slats but I don't it is going to work out. Luckily I don't mind the whole varnish thing. though it will probably be a pain when it is time to re varnish them. Oh ya. I just picked up a force ten cozy cabin heater for 75 bucks. I think it will do a fine job in such a small space and our moderate climate here.
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