Fruits Of My Labor (A-113)

[ebb]

Tony,
Is there any rule for the angle of line to the sheet winch?

Some coamings are slanted at a rediculous and unattractive angle.
While other winches seem to sit square and upright..
We've even seen sheet winches horizontal off the coamings - instead of vertical.

If a wedge is used under the winch on flat coamings, there has to be a companion wedge underneath somewhere so that fastenings are square. Complications getting that right.

The line has to want to winde UP on the drum in an orderly fashion, correct?

When I was crewing on Bill's boat there was a cleat thingy on the winches. I never thrusted the convenience thinking a digit could get caught in the jamming process. I imagine a separate jamcleat (like I've often seen) that a singlehander could whip the sheet around and get tight without having to actually touch the winch. With the exception of the winch handle.
Seen winches with a flying camcleat coming out of the base.
How you gonna do it?

Any tips to getting the lead perfect?

[Tony G]

Ebb, I purposely keep the word perfect out of my vocabulary. Was it CPete that said perfection is the enemy of progress?

The winches I have call for an ideal line angle of 3-8 degrees to prevent overriding. The science used here was plopping a winch on the coaming along with the turning block in their designated spots. Then I ran some 3/8" line through turning block wrapped the winch and worked backwards to the height of the lead blocks on tracks. That was, of course, for the large percentage head sails. For the smaller head sail we skipped the turning block and moved the lead block forward. I putzed with it for half a day so I hope I got it right. If not, who the #&!! cares we can work with it, let's git 'er wet!

As far as winch placement I figured we'd need a 1/2" pad under the winch and a 1/4" one below the turning block to give a fair lead to the sheets. I have seen some horizontally mounted winches too and it screwed me up! I'm still not the same!

Cool temps and low humidity inspired me to cash in one of my vacation days and break out the grinder. Nothing makes me feel like we're getting something done like a bad itch!

[Tony G]

Just some more photos of the same old boring stuff... Finally decided how to handle the 'space' below the traveler. The fiberglass skin will hopefully act as, or should I say form a strut to spread the stress over a greater area. That's how I see it happening anyway.

Once we get the coamings encased we will start on the cockpit storage in the forward end of the footwell. That'll be interesting. Gotta work backwards from the seacocks to the scuppers in order to find some hoses that will work. Currently I'm thinking of using radiator hoses like Tim L. did on Glissando and making my own scupper drains. Those manufactured drains are outrageously expensive!

The last two photos are of the final layer of glass to go on the coamings. I know, I know, not too exciting. It's worse to think it is about the only thing I've accomplished on the boat this summer.

Next up-a hole...

[Commander227]

Tony,
Really looking good!!! I always say a good home addition is one in which you can't tell has been added on. It should look like a part of the original design. You've made the new coamings look as though the boat was intended to wear them. Are they higher than the original wood coamings? What are your plans for this fwd cockpit storage locker? I must say I'm a little nervous about that.
Mike
C227

[Tony G]

Thanks, Mike. They are roughly 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch taller at the forward end and around 3 inches taller at the aft. They seem bigger though. I'm starting to like them more and more the closer they get to being finished. But it has been sooo long since we've had coamings on the boat that 'comfort factor' may be more perceived than actual.

Sheesh! I'm already leary about cutting a big hole in the cockpit, how about givin a brother a little love! I'm planning on making some scuppers like the ones you'd find under the factory locker lids. Got a 'water proof', heavy duty latch to keep the lid on things. The bottom portion will be an integral water tank much smaller than the 40 gallon version I originally thought about adding. Above that a 'dry' storage area. The locker portion will extend aft from the bridge deck around 18-20 inches and come up to just below the factory locker lids. Seems like a nice spot for some teak decking. This part is all straight forward...it's the scuppers in the footwell that are adding a dash of frustration to the mix.

*************************************wait a minute***************************************
Nope. Changed my mind. The locker will only extend back 16 1/2 inches and will be flush with the cockpit seats. Still adds plenty of storage and the lower water tank will be sufficiently large for a second tank. The site gauge and plumbing will be accessable through the wet locker under the companionway. The original cockpit scuppers can be cut out and transferred to their new location. This design get a 99% confidence rating from me, this morning.

[Tony G]

Well, my buddy wanted his hammer back so I figured we better get some wood working done. Same as always, start getting nervous, then shaking, worried about screwing something up. Or cutting off a finger...

It's the last teak the hardwood supplier around town will bring in. Then I mixed in some of the old Ensign's cockpit parts for luck. Luck, ha! I couldn't afford to buy any more teak if I wanted to. I always liked the look of the Cabo Rico interiors and their doors look strong and dummy resistant. That's exactly what I need!

Of course these are pictures of a bunch of pieces just lying there. But you get the idea. Making one board many pieces is the easy part. Making many pieces one.......

[ebb]

First class joinery there Tony!
Want to see the set mounted IN the boat.....