Fruits Of My Labor (A-113)

[ebb]

Tony, sir, late last night, rather early this moring, I tagged the end of the preceding post with something else to consider....
But the Association site shuts down in the dead of night, and the addon disappeared..

Filling in the cove up in the sheer inside the boat is plainly a royal pain. A waste of epoxy, effort, and added weight, for no real benefit imco.
Getting long bolts to emerge inside in the right position to take washer and nut is also a royal.
Infact it may be impossible with the 1" profile you propose. (Unless you fasten bolt ends up IN THE COVE, yeah, right!) Must do experimental mockups.
So, was thinking how we might get the lighter profile you propose... and also have a true voyager aspect to it.
Wish I'd done it this way.

STANCHION BULWARK BOARDS
I know I've seen a You-Can-Do-It-Yourself book where bulwarks were added on to the stanchions. The bulwarks had half round ends, weren't yachtsie woodwork additions, but to my eye looked pretty good. Can't find royal book!
We don't have enough stanchions on the Ariel to bend on visually floating boards.
They'd be attached to stanchions about 3/4 to 1 1/2" (to pass spring lines) above the toerail. RIGHT! Not ON the toerail. NOT bulking up the sheer line.

Idea would be to place your regular stanchions on the deck where you think you want them. Then have short stanchions at the height of the boards spaced at regular intervals between them extending the length of bulwarks, fore and aft.
Shorty bases could be welded up out of pieces of plate and tube from onlinemetals. They could be made one sided as you sometimes see bases that are deck mounted but also designed to be fastened to the side of a taller toerail.
They could be designed to allow water to pass by without running into base plate where small amounts of water stand and stain the deck.

When the project is done and viewed from off the side you'd see nicely varnished wood, even painted wood or zero-maintenance star-board suspended close to the toerail with stainless tube pieces glinting at at regular intervals thru the space between. The bulwark would still appear over the toerail but not attached to it and look neat inside. If the short stanchions look too buzy then maybe bent and buffed s.s. plate might work better or smaller diameter pipe and base than the regular 1" stuff.

Might be easier to get your bulwark to lean out a little up in the bow.
BUT that might not be necessary as imco the addition using stanchion bases or brackets isn't visualized as an extension of the hull sides,
but as an expression of deck furniture. So up in the bow they would be flared out ,or not, in relation to the deck, and what you need there.
Anyway, I'm not going down to litlgull today and rip off the toerail extentions I have. Too late for us.
They took a bucket of royal sweat & a bucket of blood to put on. I think I like the stanchion idea much better. You know.....or a variation.

All along the deck inboard at the toerail there is solid fiberglass to attach such a bulwark .... no balsa.
Because you keep the original toerail like it is, the added bulwark could be taller than what you have to aesthetically design for the eye with a pasted on toerail addition. You can also can replace the original s.s. half-round over the original seam, rather than something that has to cover two seams.
For me it is the cruiser-circumnavigator-Serafyn-Pardey look that only a wooden boat with extended ribs coming thru the deck can have.
This way can be just as Pardey-shippy and add a huge amount of security at no expense to the Alberg philosophy.

The bulwark boards on the Ariel won't need to be more than 3 or 4" tall to get the effect and do the job.
If you are planning lifelines the system provides strong bracing for the tall stanchions.
Dang! Maybe I go down now and rip those buggers off ! ! !