Fruits Of My Labor (A-113)

[mbd]

Among the many well thought out features, the Albin Vega 27s have a very slick table setup, which includes stowage above the v-berth area. Sorry, no pics here at work, but you can probably find some on Yachtworld...

[Tony G]

Hot, humid weather finally!

Found the oportunity to sneak up to the boat again. We took all of the main cabin furniture out and epoxy sealed the backsides, edges and bottoms of it. Then back to the boat where a few final cuts and shaping had to be done. And finally some hot, sticky weather to inaugurate the epoxy in tight spots season! Ahhh. It's officially summer.

Having recently given thought to the electrical system I decided I had to commit to a wiring chase forward from the electrical panel. That included a 3/4" PVC pipe through the main cabin and just through the mainbulkhead. Then we picked up a 1/2" PVC pipe to run through the v-berth area into the chainlocker/peak to handle the wiring run for the forward navigation lights. Of course this would involve hacking my way through the ceiling battens I applied to the hull some time ago.

A good friend left me some of his tools and in that odd collection I found the perfect beast!

[Tony G]

Along with the wiring chase I made way for the plumbing to run from the head in the v-berth back to the holding tank under the cockpit much like Theis' set-up.

I used short pieces of PVC just large enough in diameter to allow the 'flexable' plumbing to run through the bulkheads and setee dividers. The flexible plumbing will be caulked where it passes through the PVC stubs so the setees will be water tight (in theory).

The edges of the holes were coated with unthickened epoxy first, then the PVC was wrapped in wetted matt and carefully 'twisted' into place. Later, after given a little sanding an epoxy fillet was added to smooth things out.

Being these funiture pieces are not really structural and I wanted to expedite the whole process and save a little epoxy, I hot-glued these little styro wedges in for 'fast fillets'. A quick pass with a 1-1/2" sanding drum chucked in a drill gives a nice smooth form to lay tabbing over.

[Tony G]

We have all this re-sawn ash to use up so I thought as long as I'm waiting I might as well add some ceiling battens to the hull on the starboard side below the cabinets. This time I decided to use some of the 1/8" baltic birth ply lying around to make some curved battens that follow the hull's form.

The curved furniture pieces got a final shaping and are glued in place. Well, on the starboard side at least.

[CapnK]

Nice work, Maestro...{insert bowing emoticon} Can't wait to see more, and those lovely interior curves - she's gonna be a *beauty*...

The styro fillets - have thought of the same, they make perfect sense for straighter runs, no need to get 'gloppy' if you don't have to!

[Tony G]

Another day, a little closer...I did not shape these syro fillets with the sanding drum before the tabbing went on. I just wanted to see how the glass would take the sharper corners. Being it was a light (6oz.) fabric it flowed from surface to surface just fine in my opinion. If it were a truley structural seam with a heavier tabbing schedule a fillet would certainly be in order to reduce the stress on the bonding fabric.

[Tony G]

A few years ago I made a mahogany frame/base for the Bomar forward hatch. And then one day I saw a picture of Periwinkle's forward hatch. Love at first sight...

So this weekend I 'redoned' it. Starting with redesigning the frame to put the hatch's top surface on the same plane as the main cabin's top as it has a slightly different angle than the forward cabin's top. That alone was an improvment. This new one will get a GRP skin giving me the chance to play with the vacuum bagging system again

First shot shows how much the previously enlarged opening will get 're-enlarged'. Then the dirty deed has been done. Next is the wood frame scribed to the interior overhead. Finally some styro has been added which will be sanded into shape and later covered in fiberglass.