Commander #65 "Lucky Dawg"

[ebb]

That's a google
Boatdesignforums has an exchange on that.

I can find nothing in the yachtpaints.com data sheet warning against buffing.
However a full cure will take two weeks. More the better.
The guys on the boatdesign form mention that.

Another points out that the gloss micron layer on top which provides most of the coating's promised protection will be compromised if buffed, that is if you take the shine away with the buffing - as you say.

Another guy says don't use anything under 2500 grit ! ! !

It's understandable you want to protect the gloss.
So why can't you wax-n-buff when it's 99% and you have to have 100? Not removing anything except the last polish and wax.

I think that if you want to get a mirror gloss like fancy concours cars get you have to use an acrylic urethane (yachtpaint's AwlCraft) used for autos, made to be sanded and sanded, clear coated & buffed. (Awlgrip's Awlcraft data sheet specs that the system has a clear coat and the coating is buffable.)

Color coatings have to be solid color. But maybe the top reclining molecules in the Perfection color gloss could arguably be transparent.
A perfectionist might try to sand and recoat cured polyester layers if each had a flattening agent mixed in. Sand to perfection then lay on a last coat of color gloss.
I see NO clear gloss in the Perfection data sheet.
To achieve concours imco you have to clear coat!
BUT neither of these two (single stage) linear polyester urethane coatings can be sanded and buffed in the classic sense.
Can't say I understand a damn thing anymore the way paint chemistry seems to blend everything together. But maybe the slightly cheaper acrylic urethane is more crystalin in structure and therfor can be BUFFED?
Kyle, the assumption here is that Perfection is a polyester urethane. Do we know this as a fact?
If it is an acrylic urethane then perhaps it actually can be sanded and buffed like Awlcraft 2000.
After the stuff cures for two months.
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A 3rd FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE:
System Three makes a waterborne WR Linear Polyester Urethane Topcoat.
This two stage system (there is a clear coat) presents no serious safety issues.

According to the Description & Application Guide it looks fairly easy to build up coats
(if you must) by putting coats on without a particular additive, and sanding,
then finishing up with a coat with a crosslinker in it. That sort of stuff.

Wouldn't know about comparing the gloss with the LPUs mentioned above,
but they all seem to promise equal performance.

Thinning WR-LPU is with water and the coating can be SANDED & BUFFED
if you put on four coats of satin color, two of clear for gloss*, then sand and buff.
Quote:
"If a higher level of gloss is desired the cured coat may be sanded and buffed. Wet sand with 600grit sandpaper proceeding in stages through 1500grit. Buff with a compound equivalent to 2500grit and finish with a product similar to 3M's Finesse-It."

.....And this is explicitly printed in the SystemThree application quide.
Not inconveniently left for forums to discuss or making a disappointing phone call.
(S.3 is also available for help throughout the workweek.
The CAVEAT. WR-LPU is notoriously difficult to use anywhere south of the 48th parallel. You will require 65/70 degress and 85%humidity.
Bateau2 - Builder Forums guys complain System 3 should have more explicit guidelines on ap temp and humidity. Some have to flood their shops !!! with water to raise humidity levels. Everyone will agree that WR-LPU is a cold weather paint.
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* On my planet we can't put a coat of clear or color over another without sanding - wet sanding usually. That means more total coats AND more time.
It isn't concours that drives us, it's just getting rid of the bugs, zits and dust specks to make it smooth enough for the next stage.
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"The end stages of Boat Building Disease can make a strong man cry."
Gary Frankel- Cockpit Confessions, Pacific Yacht Magazine (newboatbuilders.com)