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Thread: Commander #65 "Lucky Dawg"

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Excelsior, Minnesota
    Posts
    326
    Kyle,
    $.02. ... The princess also tapped out fine and when I went to drill out the mounting holes for the combings I had a few that spit out some wet core. The outer skin on those side decks is so thick that even in the worst areas it does not flex under foot. I just let it go on The Princess (being certain that everything was sealed up so it would not worsen) concluding that with the thick skins the core is not needed in that area anyway. on many boats the area between the combing and rubrail is not cored.
    I think you could approach it this way:
    1. Chuck up an allen wrench with a 90 degree bend in it.
    2. Spin that sucker in each of your holes to clear out the mush.
    3. vacuum out debris and blow out with compressed air.
    4. Douse the area with Isopropyl alcohol to help remove moisture.
    5. repeat step #3
    6. repeat step #4
    7. repeat step #3
    8. inject epoxy thickened with something light weight like micro balloons with west system tubes and the $50. Royobi electric caulk gun. (or a regular caulk gun, I heard chicks dig guys with strong hands)

    ...or just cut the skins off and recore if it makes you feel better. not as bad a job as you might think.

    The paste we used on #299's decks was Dura Tech Vinyl ester fairing primer.
    Process:
    1. Route out all the stress cracks with a 1/8" carbide in a Dremel or air grinder.
    2. Knock down the decks with something around 80 grit.
    3. roll on the paste working it into all crevices.
    4. repeat step #2 and 3 as necessary.
    Final knock down should be done with a longboard sander where ever possible.

    Mike
    C227

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Grand Haven / Muskegon, Michigan
    Posts
    614

    Ham and Cheese

    Thank for your thoughts and time replying Mike.

    I've said it before - I REALLY appreciate this forum. Friends have asked me "How the hell do you know how to do this?" (I decidedly don't...yet) and I just credit y'all as my brain trust: "I have this terrific yacht-specific forum that can answer any question imaginable in a matter of hours." The info is available, I suspect, in other places and I do sample those sources, but I trust you as a group and the friendly, helpful, never-condescending tone of this forum is rarely achieved in other discussion lists. Really a remarkable resource and I can't thank you enough.

    So, I feel more comfortable with the swiss cheese approach - though it looks like boat abuse. I also like the idea of using alcohol better than acetone. Cheaper for sure and probably much more earth-friendly. The mush removal worked well today. Not speedy, but seems to be pulling it out easily. For the most part, blowing air through an adjacent hole while balsa-mining worked better than vacuuming. I'm not obsessing about getting everything out - I'm going on the assumption that if I get it bone dry, what is left will just mix with the epoxy and act as filler. This approach maintains the elevation of the deck line - which I feel good about. Haven't checked it, but if there is any arch at all to that surface (or several others I'll tackle) I don't have to bother with recreating it. Estimating epoxy will be a crapshoot, but... learning as I go. Supposed to be warm and dry for the next three days (this is all outdoor work) so I'm hoping to be flexing my forearm muscles with a caulk gun on Tuesday. Thankfully the port side is nothing compared to this.

    p.s. My new aluminum mast step is complete and I'll pick it up this week. Will share pix.

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