Commander #65 "Lucky Dawg"

[ebb]

These coatings are all urethanes.
Once the VOCs have evaporated - there is plenty of solvent that has to dissipate (upwards of 70%) - perhaps a polyester urethane coating becomes virtually inert at that point and with a little tooth applied to the surface, maybe an acrylic urethane clear coat could be rolled or sprayed on - and that buffed?
Solvents are the problem, as it may be difficult for them to disapate quickly through a tight, dense, hard skin.

Urethanes are notorious for not sticking. Usually applied to a fresh epoxy primer, but not always. But the reasons for that may be more in careful prep than chemical tech.
(For example:
Non-clogging sandpaper containing STEARATES will leave a residue and screw up any surface epoxy and polyurethanes are applied to.
There are often warnings about wax in tack-cloths used to clean dust off surfaces about to be painted.
Solvents used to wipe clean a surface are often culprits in a coating's failure.
Silicone caulk contamination of gel coat.
Between the two packaged cans of an INTERLUX epoxy filler I bought once was a folded piece of paper that in the smallest print possible warned that the cured material had to be washed of BLUSH befor sanding!!!
No mention of this step on either can! If I had used the product (I took it back to Svendsen's) without washing off the water soluable oil it would have contaminated the surface, gotten into every minute scratch, when I sanded.)

Once one system's surface is neutral, arguably any paint, any enamel, any coating could then be used over it.
Maybe - to dull the surface - prep could be warm water, BonAmi, and a green nylon pad?
Imco it would be possible to use another system's CLEAR COAT, perhaps even the waterborne LPU, to get your 'higher level of gloss.'

They're all obscenely expensive coatings
and you know how big money likes to stick together!