My thought which is echoed by others here and elsewhere is that the lead casting allowed water inside and over the years during freeze-thaw cycles water that entered the ballast exploited a weak spot in the casting pushing it out.
From what I have been told by others, the casting Pearson did or had done for lead ballast was not perfect. If there was a void either from not bringing the entire mass up to melting point, or inconsistant cooling, it would make sense there could be cracks where water could pentrate the ballast. What is known is that the area was wet from my recent reclaimation of the bilge. I witnessed water trickling from the void between the keel and ballast to the aft keel void so there was certainly the right conditions to have water surround the ballast.
I too thought something must be going on with the other side initially, but when I tap and closely observe it, it seems to be fine. I really think it is water that was in the ballast that pushed out a section not something on the other side or there would be evidence of that. I have completed the chiseling so it is now level with the surrounding ballast. My plan is to drill into the ballast to see if any water drains or to see different color shavings which would indicate something other than lead being in the casting.
As I have said from the begining of my bilge project. I am going to try to seal the two voids from one another. If I do a good glass job, which I will, water won't enter from the outside. I am also going to grind of the old glass surrounding the aft part of the lead ballest visible when looking into the forward part of the aft keel void. I will glass it over with epoxy after prepping it, then build it up with thickened epoxy to make it as fair as I can. This should eliminate the water migration which will hopefully eliminate any water getting to the lead ballast.
There was mention in a previous post about water getting into the void between the lead and hull through the space beneath the sole of the v-berth. Does anyone remember that post or does anyone know how water could enter through from that area?
I do plan on removing the rudder shoe after recent revelations to rebed it so that it does not leak at all. Therefore eliminating the major highways water has been known to enter these wonderful vessels.
Last point: I love my boat and I am thoroughly enjoying this process believe it or not.
I don't know about what other ariel owners have found but on A-231, there is a triangular section of glass at the forward edge of the ballast that was a source of water into the keel (directly below the vee-berth deck). In A-231's case, I was able to feel this section out with a dental mirror looking forward from the forward most bilge access plate. When I cut into the floor boards to repair the hull in that area (and drop in a teak grate), I found this forward most barrier to the ballast was composed of a couple layers of 6 Oz cloth and 1 inch of fractured resin. Lots of cracks in that surface allowed any water from the chain locker to find its way into the keel.
Bill, I would very much like to see that photo you mention without the teak grate. I am making it my mission to have a boat that doesn't leak or have highways water can relocate to and from voids through.
Was the water dripping from the anchor locker to that point and then to the ballast cavity? Can water that ends up in the space below the sole make it to the real bilge aft of there or does it pool up and hang out? This is the first time I've seen that space, thanks for posting that photo.
BTW- I removed the rudder shoe tonight and it is in great shape. There was a small amount of water dripping out of the holes the pins were in though. I'm going to let the area dry for a while then overdrill the holes, fill with epoxy. Redrill the correct sized holes then rebed with an obnoxioius amount of 5200. Fun Fun!
as built, A-231 had a small pool for water collect forward of the ballast to a depth of 1 inch or so before cascading aft to the bilge. My extensive use of a garden hose below decks during construction and cleaning was one of the contributing factors to water reaching the bilge. One other source for a small contribution was the former outboard well (since removed on A-231) and some cracks in the cockpit locker drain system, plenty of cracks in the keel and false keel area (all since ground out and re-glassed).
You are on track with the removal of the rudder shoe. you may also want to do the same with the rudder strap (two bolts). This was another water entry point for me....
They don't call water the universal solvent for nuthin'...
I removed the rudder shoe without any problems. The shoe is in great shape with no cracks or corrosion. The repair to this area will be straightforward and will be similar to what others have done (grind, coat with epoxy, fair, 5200, etc.)
Once the shoe is back on, is it a good idea to encapsulate it with glass and epoxy?
Is a zinc worth the effort if there has been no corrosion thus far?
This stuff was thick and nasty, but it peeled off easily. It was especially thick at the aft end of the shoe.
Should the keel be extended some with epoxy so that I can avoid having to use that much caulking in the back? It seems building it up aft with epoxy would provide more structure for the shoe to hold on to, especially considering its location to the shaft which is an area that would experience the most torque.
Last edited by Tim Mertinooke; 04-04-2007 at 12:30 PM.
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