Ariel #24

[SkipperJer]

Tim,
Fill me in on the reasoning behind not putting the lead back in. Thanks for sharing your fine work.

[Bill]

Tim,
Fill me in on the reasoning behind not putting the lead back in.

See "Encapsulated Lead" discussion: http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...hread.php?t=27

and "Extra Pearson Ballast" http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...hread.php?t=31

Remember the Search button . .

[Tim Mertinooke]

Alberg designs tend to squat I have found. My Cape Dory Typhoon does, my friends CD 27 does, half the ariel photos I have run across show it. My outboard weighs 60 pounds, Gas tank full is another 15, I plan to keep a small anchor in the stern lazerette as well, theres another 20 pounds. I prefer the boat sits without the squat and removing the lead should help. I know the lead keeps the weight down low where it should be on a boat like this, and that it could affect the performance, but for this summer I don't plan on putting it back. If I feel as though it needs to be put back in next summer to compare I will. For this summer however they stay out. I weigh 210 so I'll just lay down on the cockpit sole if it gets to nasty out there.

[Tim Mertinooke]

It's nice to have wrapped things up below the waterline, I am pretty sure she won't sink. Now my energies go to the interior. After seeing so many inspirational photos browsing this site, I decided to paint the interior gloss white with brightsides, then replace the original lights with brass ones from ABI. I hope to have things prepped this week and paint this weekend weather permitting.

The replacement lights


Some befores of the bulkhead. The two new lights are going exactly where the other ones were (at least for this year anyway) for the sake of ease.



After removing the weird foam placed in the gap between the bulkhead and the cabin trunk, there was a space that needed to be filled. I decided to use a painter's caulk to make it look like a tight fit. The teak trim of course will be varnished. My hope is that this dark, multicolored, cave of a cabin transforms into a bright and airy one.

Here is the nicely cut bulkhead that left the shop floor in RI 45 years ago. Now that's craftsmanship (note sarcasm in voice.)

[Tim Mertinooke]

Here is a shot after the first coat. the second coat today should make it look awesome. I decided to do it in stages as I have limited time after work. The sides will be done next followed by the aft part of the cabin. I have some teak pieces let over from a job my dad did and I will be using those to make teak trim around the top and sides of the bulkhead.

[Tim Mertinooke]

Here's a nibble of what I'll also be doing to the boat this weekend...

[ebb]

Can't a tendency to squat be countered by balancing with weight and ballast? For instance if you have 100# way out at the stern why not try a similar weight in or near the forepeak? Certainly would counter any hobby horsing....?

[Tim Mertinooke]

Sounds good, but I liken this game to leveling a chair by shaving a little off one of the legs.

I plan to remove the cabin sole this winter and epoxy/glass over the porous roving so hastily thrown in by Pearson. I will also be removing a section in the V-berth sole similar to what Bill(231) did for access there. I want a smooth transition from bow to sump for water to flow and mght try some creative drain/pipe thing for water from the anchor locker to flow. I like Ebb's pipe idea, although I don't think mine will be that elaborate. The entire bilge will be faired and painted as well and I want access to the entire bilge so I might change the access panels when I put the new sole in. I think by adding weight, it would complicate my plan because I wouls want it removable, but don't want free pieces of lead able to scoot around. A-24's on a diet, I just assume keep the weight out.