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Thread: Ariel #24

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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Rudder Shoe

    I removed the rudder shoe without any problems. The shoe is in great shape with no cracks or corrosion. The repair to this area will be straightforward and will be similar to what others have done (grind, coat with epoxy, fair, 5200, etc.)

    Once the shoe is back on, is it a good idea to encapsulate it with glass and epoxy?

    Is a zinc worth the effort if there has been no corrosion thus far?










    This stuff was thick and nasty, but it peeled off easily. It was especially thick at the aft end of the shoe.

    Should the keel be extended some with epoxy so that I can avoid having to use that much caulking in the back? It seems building it up aft with epoxy would provide more structure for the shoe to hold on to, especially considering its location to the shaft which is an area that would experience the most torque.





    Last edited by Tim Mertinooke; 04-04-2007 at 12:30 PM.

  2. #2
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    Tim

    we'll see how the voting from the other members works out..

    for what it's worth, A-231's rudder shoe is bedded in epoxy (filling the whole of the shoe). I haven't seen a need to encapsulate the shoe.

    I haven't installed a Zinc on the shoe, neither have I seen any ill effect from not having one. (the casting would turn pink in spots due to de-zincification)

    cheers,
    bill

    p.s. nice work cutting back the keel growth A-24.

  3. #3
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    "A-231's rudder shoe is bedded in epoxy (filling the whole of the shoe)."

    Bill,

    I'm assuming you used the epoxy as the adhesive that seals and holds the shoe in place. Did you coat the aft section of the keel with epoxy then set the shoe before the epoxy cured?

    Did your method seal the area so that no water migrates into the bilge, if so I may be sold in which method to use?

    I was thinking about setting the shoe in 5200 after coating the area with epoxy and waiting until the epoxy fully cured. I think that I am going to leave the shoe exposed as well. It's bronze so it should do its thing and protect itself. I'll be able to inspect it as well which is a very attractive feature to leaving it exposed.

    Tim
    Last edited by Tim Mertinooke; 04-04-2007 at 05:00 PM.

  4. #4
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    question -- "Did you coat the aft section of the keel with epoxy then set the shoe before the epoxy cured?"
    yes, I filled the shoe with thickened epoxy and used a jack to hold it in position.

    The stub on your keel looks good in the photos (At least no cracks are visible around the holes). either method (bedding in wet epoxy or 5200 will work) the 5200 is much easier to remove if you ever need to drop the rudder for repairs.

    were I to do it again, I'd use 5200...
    Last edited by bill@ariel231; 04-04-2007 at 07:08 PM.

  5. #5
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    "were I to do it again, I'd use 5200..."

    Bill, Thank you for your experiences and insight. I think I'll go the 5200 route for the reasons mentioned earlier.

    If only the weather would warm so that I can start laying up the glass...

    Tim

  6. #6
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    Potential leak area

    As I was looking in the bilge tonight I noticed some white powder near a few small holes in the laminate coating the bilge over the lead ballast. This area happens to be right above the area of the keel that I grinded last weekend. If the dust from grinding can make it up through these small holes, then water is certainly able to travel the other way. In a perfect world the the entire bilge will be covered with a coat of glass saturated in epoxy resin. The problem as we all know is limited access which makes prep work a nightmare. Pearson certainly threw these things together like they were in a hurry.


    This Picture was taken through the middle bilge access panel. You can see the powder and if you look toward the bottom of the picture you can see a few small holes.



    Here is the same shot only zoomed in a little. You can clearly see the holes in this shot.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I removed all of the peeling fiberglass laminate from the rudder today. The mahogany appears to be in very good condition. I observed no rot it appears to be structurally solid. The upper and lower posts also appear to be in very good condition. I did not observe the corrosion I have seen mentioned by others.

    I'm assuming these boats came off the assembly line with exposed mahogany rudders with maybe just a coat of paint on them. I am considering leaving it exposed like it is with the exception of a coat of bottom paint. Have others found this works, or have you tried other things such as encapsulating with epoxy and glass. The encapsulation thing seems to be a no-win battle as water always wins. It will also increase the rudder's weight making it more dense which creates an annoyance to whomever is at the tiller.

    Some pictures:







    The laminate came off in sheets this large indicating that it was not holding very well.








    Some close-ups of the posts.


    Last edited by Tim Mertinooke; 04-06-2007 at 05:48 PM.

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