Ariel #24

[Hull376]

Tim, Bill, ebb,

I never "dug" into the floor of the outboard well, and was going to take a peek by drilling a couple of holes through which I could remove any wet foam. These posts seem to indicate that its about a 100% certaintly that there is water under the outboard well floor, and that there is a high probability that the bulkhead was tabbed quickly and without much attention to detail. So that means that I'll probably wind up demolishing the whole floor, sealing the bulkhead all the way around, as ebb recommends, and then deciding whether or not to put in another floor. And what was the point of the outboard well floor? Was it needed to allow the outboard well to have a self draining system (that hole). Am I on track here with what you guys are saying?

Also, can I do this with the boat in the water? Any risk of water coming up through the bottom with the floor removed (I can't see how unless the hull has a hole in it! But then me with a blunt instrument and a hammer in my hand so close to the hull laminate sounds like a disaster waiting to happen---- abandon ship!!! she's been holed!!! where's that Dutch Kid when you need him???).

[Bill]

And what was the point of the outboard well floor? ... Any risk of water coming up through the bottom with the floor removed

Without a floor, water will collect in the open space with no where to go, but maybe into the bilge if there is an opening. The floor also provides a level area for the fuel tank and storing the ob. Search for other discussions on the ob well.

[Tim Mertinooke]

I sanded the area this morning and made a nice spoon in the thickened epoxy that I smeared on last night. I tried to make the chamfer consistent from the center to the outside perimeter. It's now ready for the laminate and epoxy.






Then I cut out the fiberglass pieces that would be laminated. I will laminate the largest piece first following by successively smaller pieces. Then it will be coated with thickened epoxy.

[Tim Mertinooke]

After prepping the area, I coated it with epoxy and placed the first saturated piece of laminate on. I then applied three more layers. I decided to do four layers at a time as I have not laminated with epoxy before and I don't want it to "cook" which would weaken it. The only problem I had, and it really wasn't a problem, was the layers were trying to slide (very, very slowly) down the vertical repair. I just kept rolling and spreading until it stayed in place on its own (10 minutes.)





In a couple hours I'll laminate four more layers.

[Tim Mertinooke]

In total I applied 16 layers of fiberglass. The reason for the high number of layers is that I decided to use the 3oz. cloth I had on hand. Perhaps not the best choice of cloth and it was time consuming, but the repair integrity will be good. In fact, I am willing to bet that part of the hull is the strongest part of the hull. The area is pretty fair, but once the last few layers kick I'll smear on a thin thickened epoxy coat. This will be allowed to cure overnight, then I'll remove the amine blush, sand, fair with one last thin coat of epoxy, sand smooth, paint, then I'll be done!


16 layers of fiberglass reinforced epoxy.

[Tim Mertinooke]

I coated the repair with a thin layer of thickened epoxy to make it fair. It required only a little which is satisfying. Tomorrow I'll sand, see how fair it is overall. If it needs one more thin coat and sanding it will get it, if not I'll be done!

[Tim Mertinooke]

I removed the amine blush this morning, sanded the area smooth and then put the last sheen of thickened epoxy to fair it perfectly smooth. Once it cures I'll rough the area up a little then slap on the red bottom paint. How long does one need to wait before the repair can be painted?





Look at that!