+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 94

Thread: Tools that work & Etc.

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Scarborough, Maine
    Posts
    1,439

    Thumbs up Tools that work & Etc.

    Just curious what tools folks on the forum highly recommend (and highly don't recommend) for boat maintenance jobs - especially you guys who have done this for a while. Tools you use alll the time and wouldn't be without, etc.

    So far, these are my "big" purchases:

    Cirular Saw: had it, but am adding a carbide blade with many teeth for cutting the deck skin.

    Porter Cable 5" RO Sander: recommended by many folks on the Plastic Classic Forum for general purpose grinding and sanding. Mine uses the adhesive backed disks which I purchased from http://www.mcmaster.com/ which seems like a good source for just about anything.

    Thanks for any and all input and pointers.
    Last edited by mbd; 11-15-2007 at 05:18 PM.
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823
    Yeah, the Porter Cable is nice. I called mine "Swirly Shirley." She stopped working unfortunately. I went with the hook & loop discs and bought the discs with the holes in them which are cheaper.

    Although not a substitute for proper power tools on big jobs, a cordless kit is real handy. Good for around the house too. These go on sale pretty often.

    http://www.ryobitools.com/index.php/catalog/tool/p860/


    No substitute for a sawzall for some jobs. Jigsaw is handy sometimes. Circular saw is OK. Not enough torque for thick wood. Little sander is good for tight corners. I thought the flashlight was silly, but I use it. The wet/dry dustbuster is junk--not much suction.

    I had a ryobi cordless drill already. Its great to have two chargers and 4 batteries. Two drills too. Drill a pilot hole with one drill, pick up the other drill and drive in the screw.

    I think an angle grinder is good to have also. The dust kills them. I burned out a Dewalt, then a Craftsman. My latest one is a $30 Ryobi
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by commanderpete; 04-05-2006 at 10:44 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Channel Islands, CA
    Posts
    5
    For those of us on a strangled budget Harbor Freight (www.harborfreight.com) has lots of somewhat questionable quality / foreign tools at a very good price. The 4 inch angle grinder has lasted me some 6 years including a plumbing remodel. Things like 3/4 inch socket sets that would be hundreds elsewhere are pretty affordable.
    Cordless tools are what come in handy for myself - sanders, drill or small cir saw.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    middle earth
    Posts
    120

    cordless portables

    these portable rechargable tools are extremely useful in storm prone areas.after hurricane jeanne in '04 destroyed the marina I was in I used 18 volt ryobi porable tools to no end---from everything to repairing things ---to fabricating an excellent outboard motor mount ---to get the boat out of where it was to some 150 miles away to the next marina.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Scarborough, Maine
    Posts
    1,439
    I use my cordless drill all the time. An extra battery in on my list. I'm also planning a trip to Home Depot and see what sort of cordless packs they've got. It is convenient not to have to drag a power cord around.
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    118
    I wonder how long the batteries on those little guys last though... I'm planning to do this repair on my boat's stern the coming weekend, and I guess to sand the repair area the little 'Corner Cat' sander will work.
    But when it comes to sanding the whole hull prior to repainting I guess I'll have to get a proper belt sander, or else I'll be needing a week just to sand the hull...

    When I went to my local Home Depot I noticed they have many different Ryobi combos, some of them leaving out the handheld vacuum (you said above it's useless anyway for lack of suction) and the jigsaw (I don't know what to do with the thing anyway...)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Havre de Grace, MD
    Posts
    207
    I like my Royobi set, (Circ saw, Sawsall, vac, flashlight, drill, charger) Additons I made are 2 extra batteries, and the rotoziplike thing.

    Seen some companies have out their Li-Ion sets, wonder if they are worth the premium?
    Last edited by tha3rdman; 04-12-2006 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Additions
    #97 "Absum!"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Hampton Roads Va.
    Posts
    821

    Thumbs up Sanders

    Don't use a belt sander !
    Use an orbital sander , easier on you and the boat and the finish will look much better. Get a Porter-Cable or DeWalt and use 60 grit disks , you will need about 2 dozen for an Ariel . Change the disks often a sharp disk cuts faster .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    middle earth
    Posts
    120

    battery charge

    it depends on how hard the appliance is used.after the storms of 2004 I used these tools exclusively and intensly-- as ther was no power at the marina----and as the battery lost power the tool would loose power too.this is why more than one battery is good to have--as one wears out----use the one on the charger ---the catch 22 is -----if the power is out----how do you recharge the battery----usually a remote generator or other power supply can be and was located for this----and the portable tools transported to the job site---in my case----a destroyed marina-----what a scene---

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    118
    All right!

    I took your advice and bought one smaller Ryobi set, and my first impression is good - they seem handy and sturdy and designed with a lot of attention to detail. I got the $129 set at Home Depot that includes the 4 tools: drill, circular saw, detail sander and light. It comes with the charger, 2 batteries and bag. Now my fingers really start to itch!

    Thanks for the advice about the sanding. Sure I get an orbital sander. Two dozen discs??? Sounds like I'll be sanding the whole day long! I've never done this at all and so have no idea how long ittakes. How can you tell if you sanded a spot enough? I would guess when it doesn't shine anymore?

    I won't likely do this this weekend since the boat is outside and it's expected to rain a lot. But I'll attempt the repair on the deep dings and gouges I showed you guys in my other post. I read up on your posts about the use of poly vs. epoxy and am a little surprised that it's not a clear thing - well, not really. I start realizing that there are many ways to do the same in boating, and that's part of the fun. As somebody said in another post - if it doesn't work out, just grind it/sand it away and try again!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    step wrench alternative for through-hulls

    This indispensible tool comes from looking into one of C'pete's Links (Repairs and other stuff) on the Link Thread.

    Want to draw your attention to a great adaption of a common socket tool to the how the hell do you remove the through-hull problem.

    This comes from George de Witte of the Nepean Sailing Club.
    What you do is find a socket wrench, the cup thingy, that fits snugly INTO the through-hull and cut a slot across the cup that will slip over the two lugs molded inside the bore.

    With seacocks, using this adaption you will be able to back out the through-hull while leaving the seacock in place untouched. maybe it is damaged or needs recaulking. If you have ballcocks you need the wrench to hold the through-hull while you unscrew the fitting inside. Two person job.
    Not to be ridiculous but the tool is useful if you are adding a new hole in your boat. It's a pretty big deal to mount a true flanged seacock properly. But once it is in place, you can take the time to turn the t'hull in - and take it out to trim it - until you get the length exactly right. Then turning it in a last time with caulk.*
    A one man job. And theoretically you could do it with the boat in the water. Might want to close the seacock.

    Cutting the slot into hardened steel socket is perhaps not the easiest thing.
    George mentions a way he did it. I might try a plywood jig that a hand circular saw with a carborundum blade would slide in. You'd have to immobilize the socket in the jig. Maybe drill a hole hole slightly too small that you bung the socket into! I'm assuming that single passes of the blade in micro-depth increments would cut the groove and the groove would not be too wide. A friend with connections to a machine shop would be a good alternative. As they say: different sockets for different through-hulls - hopefully the same driver. 3/8" was suggested.

    [Recently installed small 1/2" seacocks using a short length of modified 5/8" brass hex rod to turn the through-hull . A box end wrench was used to turn the fitting into the seacock through a bulkhead. The inside part of the hex rod was machined round to fit and long slots milled into the round sides to slip over the lugs. Being brass it was no problem to machine. But in this case, most of us would have to have it done by someone with a metal lathe. Had fairly long slots cut so that there would be more bearing surface when used to break the rubber caulk seal if the fitting had to be removed. The slots fit the lugs in the through-hull without too much slop, much like you'd want any wrench to. The through-hull is nylon. But the same would be good for a bronze fitting. The lugs are rather small and the more tool surface you get on them (by having longer slots) the better imco.]

    Polysulfide has the rep for being the correct underwater caulk for the t'hull/seacock. It'd be more likely than polyurethane to allow mechanical sheering when it comes time to take it apart than 5200 or maybe the newer silicone/urethane** hybrids. It's just my feeling that p'sulfide stays elastic longer than p.urethane. T'hulls are notorious for being non-removable.

    This seldom used socket alteration can live with the usual wrench collection aboard and therefor would always be found when needed.

    This slotted plug idea has been given the coveted Five Star Seebee's Can-do Award.
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________
    *If your flanged seacock is mounted on a nice backing plate that is epoxied or 5200ed permanently over the through-hull hole.... It seems possible to screw the t'hull in with old fashioned underwater bedding compound. The seacock should be waterproof with the through-hull removed. Much more civilized.
    **Silicone/polyurethane hybrids (except for BoatLife's LifeSeal hybrid) are new enough in the states that not much is talked about them on forums. These hybrids supposedly stay flexible forever, never hardening. It might be easier to break a flexible seal rather than one that has hardened.
    Last edited by ebb; 03-04-2008 at 12:40 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    nut drivers

    Nut drivers are useful tools. What they have going for them is their hollow shank, which means you can often spin the nut all the way without have to find a wrench. Nut drivers are specific to the nut, which means you can reach the thread end in impossible locations with the nut in the cup ready to spin it on.

    Nut drivers come in sets of seven or eleven usually. If you own metric as well, that means you have sixteen color coded handled drivers in your tool box. The one you need is never there and the metric ones don't fit.

    It's time to find a compact kit for the boat anyway.

    Here's one that looks like a nice set. Has a stubby red handled adjustable wrench and needle nose pliers too. A short and a regular handle for the nut and screw drivers. But the nut drivers aren't hollow and the set is in a space-robbing hard case.

    Here's a stainless steel set from McMasterCarr for about $800! A W L R I G H T !

    Here's an adjustable cup nut driver that fits 1/4" to 7/16". I'm sure to want the 1/2" size.

    Here's a canvas roll set of screw and nut drivers, but again the socket driver shanks are not hollow. Nothing about the metal finish either - and they want $58.32. Ought come with a stubby crescent wrench for that price!

    Why don't we have needle-nose pliers with an adjustable axis like all normal pliers? Could then hold a tiny part with more parallel tips.

    Here's a 45pc Stubby Tool Set (Performance Tools)
    http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores....asp?ID=459670
    Direct Line Parts. Shadow Online Store. 888-693-1011
    SAE 5/32 to 3/4 and metric 4-17mm sockets (but no hollow shanks). The (screw-driver handled) socket driver is dual ratcheting 1/4 and 3/8" (which to me means you can replace a lost socket). Comes with another ratcheting screw driver also for 4 kinds of bits. Also a stubby crescent-style wrench. In vanadium steel with rubber handles - for $30. But in a see-through plastic box. Not bad. Like the size range and compactness. Might get it.
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    LATER ADDITION:
    OK kids, Have received the compact Stubby tool set from the Honda motorcycle site.
    The set does have a perfect range of chromed sockets (4mm to 17mm and 5/32" to 3/4" - it'll handle the nuts for 1/2" bolts on the SAE side.) And an adequate range of 10 bits. The ratcheting driver for the sockets is about 5 1/4" long with a nice stout plastic handle and no-slip rubber inserts. Has the 1/4" driver on one side and the 3/8" on the other which does the whole range - as will the 2" extension.
    The bit driver is 4"" long with a magnetic head to hold the bits. There is an adapter which will allow you to use the sockets except for the the last three that are 3/8" drive. It also ratchets and has an immobilizing locking ring.
    The third handled tool is a crescent-style adjustable wrench that opens to 1".
    This tool, unlike the sockets and other drivers is NOT PLATED and will begin rusting immediately. An amazing omission.

    Even more peculiar is the case.
    It houses the pieces and two of the drivers. BUT the more important driver, the chromed socket wrench is attached, unprotected, outside to one side of the case - like a handle. THAT's Borg weird. The case and lid was molded specifically for what looks like a 7-of-9 after-thought. "OOPs. Li-po, we forgot something!"
    And the blow-molded insert that holds, marks and separates the pieces in the case is pretty thin for anything long term, and holds everything too deeply for easy removals.
    SO, Has good points and some glaring bad ones.
    I think all tools like these want to be in space saving soft rolls or cases aboard a small boat.
    Give it a generous 2 out of 5 - the set needs further development. After the plastic case breaks and the liner starts splitting what do you do with the collection? The unseen ratcheting mechanisms inside the handles given the strangeness of the adjustable wrench might also be halfassed.
    But it is kinda cute and might be useful.
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++



    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __
    What I really could use is a compact convertible (interchangeable) socket/bit driver with hollow shanks. I'd have 3/16" to 5/8" chrome nut cups that fit onto hollow shafts - and the same complement of metrics the Stubby set has..
    The sockets would have rubber nubs inside that hold the nut in the socket no matter where you wanted to put it.
    Hollow shafts would fit into a single cushion grip handle. The set could also include a ratcheting driver or two, a 90 degree handle, and a super-stubby that only the sockets fit on. Very often you can twist a handle but not swing a crank. [Got to get in that electrical panel again.]
    Seems like a simple idea - but haven't seen it. The set would come in an anti-rust treated fabric roll for compactness with the sockets stacked one above the other but individually accessed through velcro pull-strip holders. I'd pay 36bucks for it maybe out of a marine catalog.
    Make it so!
    Last edited by ebb; 03-04-2008 at 12:51 PM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    Tenacious Sealing and Repair Tape

    from a company called McNett.
    Here's a candidate for the 'Tools That Hopefully Work' category.
    It's a clear matte peel and stick tape to be used on synthetic and natural fabrics, fleece, rubber, vinyl - on clothing, tarps, raingear, sleeping bags, mats, backpacks, stuffsacks and so forth. One guy used it to repair a bike tire. Maybe sails too?

    It peels off again without leaving a residue. A way step up from 100-mile-an-hour tape: duct tape - which cannot be removed without delaminating and leaving an amalgamated mess.

    It is sold in a roll 3" X 20" for the camping trade in a blue see-through plastic container. $3 to $4. That's nice too!


    Found the stuff reviewed on the Backpack Gear Test site:
    www.backpackgeartest.org
    "The most comprehensive interactive gear reviews and tests on the planet"

    What you guys and gals got to do is go to that site and see how it works.
    To be a reviewer of a product your opinions are preceded by an extensive review of your background, along with the website's methodology for 'testing'. A really nice system, imco.
    I have let my Practical Sailor sub lapse because I no longer find their reviews important and questioned their methods
    and didn't give a damn about megayacht 'tests'. It may be that PS for me slipped into a recognisable 'personality'. Where I want a product review I get an annoying and questionable PS review. [Maybe the last straw was their comedic marina mud anchor test a few years ago. Close second their paint chip comparisons on a Boston Whaler.]

    What is refreshing about the Backpack Gear Test site is that there ARE real individuals involved and a number of their reviews of one product - and the mettle of the reviewer is always on display. At least we can read the testing methods and decide if they are trustworthy. Extensive testimonials. Check it out.


    Backpackers are true minimalists when it comes to gear. A lot like micro-cruising an A/C. There have been some great gear changes since my camping days.
    A product you might check out for its use onboard for the gunkholer is a tiny UV watertreatment device - "mUV Ultrviolet Portable Water Treatment System by Meridian Design,Inc." Just the idea of taking a UV water purifier in a backpack is mind bending to me. What will they think of next, etc!
    Haven't explored the Backpack Gear Test website at all. Hope somebody from here looks in and comments on it.....

    At first blush this website makes me wish us small boaters had a Product Review Board for ourselves. Right now we have to roam the forums and read a bilge of hype.

    I've been looking for a very compact ultra-lite tarptent to carry in the truck for emergencys, and overnight camping. Any interest???
    If the package is truely small enough it would be great to have aboard. A tarptent stuffsack would have useful fabrics (Polycryo, spinnaker cloth and Tyvec, for example), Spectra line, noseeum netting - that would have a place in the ship's survival grab sack. Including that little roll of Tenacious!
    Last edited by ebb; 01-17-2008 at 07:51 AM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    Dremel tool carbide grit bits

    On the rudder discussion thread we talked a bit about the usefulness of Dremel type tools. Often used for model work they are necessary when small details and close up work must be done.

    Here is a source for tungsten carbide 1/8" shank wheels and burrs of many shapes. The wheels can be used for cutting and shaping composites, laminates, fiberglass and of course wood. The source also has carbide sleeve drums for the 1/2" rubber arbor that I've not seen before.

    When you go to the home page of the Duragrit site you'll find a video showing the tools being used. A Dremel-type tool adds a lot of versatility to tackling picky on board projects and please-fix-this stuff around the house. Here there is a variety of carbide grit bits I haven't seen before. Prices are perhaps better too, I've paid $16, maybe more, for the combo cutting/shaping 1 1/4" wheel at the local hardware* - here they are $12 + S&H.
    {It occurs to me that this price may be in Canadian dollars???}

    I haven't used this source yet, it just came from a friend. Looks promising.

    http://duragrit.com/us/index.html
    They are a Canadian company. There is a telephone to call. Maybe they will do a debit card. I won't type any bank numbers into the computer.
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _
    * no longer available from Dremel
    Last edited by ebb; 05-02-2008 at 07:28 AM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    230
    This particular tool was especially helpful when I removed all of the debris from the sump of my former bilge...

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts