Handrails ARIEL

[mbd]

After the drilling, I gave them a quick sanding, wiped down with acetone to remove the oils, and started varnishing. First coat was 50-50 varnish and thinner. Next had more varnish, then just straight varnish. I lightly sanded with 220 grit before the last two coats. I got 6 coats on before I installed them.

[mbd]

The installation was done over 2 days. The first I determined where I wanted them, then drilled, over-drilled, and filled with epoxy. The next day, I drilled again (shank-sized holes), counter-sunk each hole to allow more sealant around the screw holes, then attached the rails from underneath.

I used the lower rails to drill pilot holes from the top since I wanted to measure the handrail locations on the coach roof rather than from the cabin. (I hope that makes sense.) Then put them underneath and inserted the screws to attach the upper rails. I was quite concerned that the holes wouldn't match up once I started installing the upper rails. But, with much cursing and fiddling, miraculously, they did - enough anyway.

As I was attaching the first one, I was not comfortable with the length of screw protruding through the coach roof and decided to get longer screws. I settled on #12 x 3 1/2" silicone bronze screws from Hamilton Marine. They didn't have the "pan" heads like the bronze ones had, but they did have the smooth shank which was necessary so I could turn the screw while inserted into the lower handrail, and tighten the upper handrail.

They came out very solid. So far, I haven't "bunged" the undersides because I wanted to make sure they wouldn't leak, and down the road, I may want to remove them when I start cleaning up the interior. No hurry.
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Also, at the recommendation of the guy at Hamilton's who sold me the second set of screws, I purchased a bar of Ivory soap and scraped some off on the tips of the screws as they were being installed. He said it would help them go in easier, which it seemed to.

[bill@ariel231]

Mike

Nice job, next you'll need the canvas covers for the topside teak

cheers,
bill

[mbd]

Looks like the new handrails ended up a little inboard from the original installation and the aft end just cleared the radio by sheer luck...

[mbd]

next you'll need the canvas covers for the topside teak

Too late for the hatches.

[bill@ariel231]

I also need to do something about covering my hatch with canvas... (to protect the varnish on the companionway slides). there are a couple classic boats in newport that have complete sunbrella suits for the whole of the coachroof (a 20's vintage Fife and a 1905 NY30). Out of my league but it's still a source of inspiration for sewing projects this winter...

[Scott Galloway]

I like the handrails inside. They could have saved a few bruises from being tossed across the cabin.

But I don't like hitting my head on things below, and I don't like drilling new holes in my boat unless I have to do so. So, I built these handrails from teak to use the old epoxy-lined holes.

[ebb]

Really like Mike's HowTo on his doubled handrails. Impecable two for the price of one methodology, great photos too!

Double inside handrails mean you can 'walk the sole' holding on to the overheads. They are the best solution for safety below.

For a descent reason: a continuously relandscaped headbone, I'm looking at putting the inside handrail under the windows in the Ariel. That means in steadying oneself, you'd be facing the uphill side. Or downhill......

Has anybody done this? How did you do it?

[bill@ariel231]

Ebb

I've also been thinking along the line of handholds below the portlights. I once came across a nice compact handhold on a late '40's Olin Stephens designed yawl. The line of trim below the dead lights had a gutter along the top that let you grab the top edge with your finger tips. she was a Nevin's built boat so I'm not sure it was an S&S or a Nevins inspired handhold... here's a sketch:

[mbd]

Not being a fan of drilling holes in the decks (or cabin sides), what about "extending" the base of shelving below the deadlights with hand holds, kind of like some companionway steps I've seen, only horizontal? Now if only I had a picture...

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OK, back from Google. Suppose that the sides of one of these ladders was a shelf with built-in handle... maybe extend them out a bit from the fiddles or little do-das (whatever they're called) that keep the books on the shelves. Then add Ebb's form and function...

Or... how about REALLY overbuilding the "do-das" so they can function as handholds similar to Bill's? Still no holes in the deck, but the books may get in the way when you really need that handhold.

[mbd]

Here you go Ebb. I was going to suggest building handholds into all your furniture (i.e. dinnette, galley, etc.) and was looking for pictures of something like this...

[mbd]

...but then, I noticed these up under the windows. (This is from a 1966 Wing 25 currently on Yachtworld.)

[mbd]

The only exterior shot. Looks like the rails might be screwed in? Can't really tell...

[mbd]

And side handrails in another form from a 1961 Rhodes Chesapeak 32. More utilitarian, but it blends right in. Perhaps the lamps are distracting me...

[ebb]

Mike,
That Wing is nice - looks like a people boat!

Yer right those choice rails look like they're bolted thru the cabinside. The windows are a lot smaller than what we have on the Ariel!

I don't know if you have noticed but nearly every drawing in the Ariel Class Association Manual shows SMALLER WINDOWS than what we actually have. See pgs 104. 105, 146. 147 for instance. We do not have an 'as built' drawing of the Ariel in the Manual.

Here's somemore:
The lines drawings by Carl Alberg on page 144 of the Ariel/Commander show a sheer line with a pronounced curve in it!!!
Ariel #338 has NO CURVE IN ITS SHEER. As certain other skippers have verified.
Also the same line drawing has a detail that shows the rudder shaft on the Ariel as 1 1/2" diameter.
There are no official drawings or schematics of the original rudder with its as built 1" shaft.
This lines drawing also has, presumably by Alberg
the actual measurements of the waterline to the deck, fore and aft.
Whether that includes the molded toerail, I'm not sure. Lines often go to the deck. So you have 1 1/2" to take into account if you're locating your Ariel's designed WL.
Any way here are the actual numbers in the designer's own hand (Design # 33, by the way) - Everett, what did you do with the curve in my sheer? - so evident in the Wing!!! I think that nice sheer makes the Wing a smaller volume boat than the Ariel.

Anyway, It'd be nearly impossible to duplicate that grabrail The Trimmer has because it would be right on the cabinside/deck curve in the Ariel cabin. The windows being so low. Don't know: MAYBE I'll report on this as my windows are still out.

Another way is to have only three attachment points - the ends and the middle - and have the handrail at about the level of the lower framing of the light. Or even higher so window frame fastenings could be easy access Might look pretty good! It would also go thru the cabin side and maybe have two bolts per point - making six bolts in all - with a fat round mahogany finger wrapping Wing rail that oughta be plenty strong!

Don't know that I'd put the center handrail attachment between the windows unless they have gone thru the epoxy fill process that some people do. The actual large windows the Ariel has means that the narrow center of the cabin between the windows is quite flimsy befor filling.