Large Portlights

[bill@ariel231]

Good news for anyone looking for replicas of the Ariel/Triton large portlights (in bronze). I just picked up the first set of castings from Roger Winiarski at Bristol Bronze (401.625.5224). It looks like they will make a fine winter's project.

After suffering with the fractured originals, I thought I'd try having new ones fabricated a bit heftier than original. I supplied Bristol Bronze with a set of patterns approx 1/8th inch deeper in section in the hope of avoiding broken frames 10 years down the road.

I'll forward pictures as the installation process moves ahead.

For anyone so inclined, Roger still has the patterns. He can supply in any state from rough castings to ready-to-install.

cheers,
Bill@ariel231

[mbd]

Pictures? Price? Please?

[Robert Lemasters]

Your portlight replacements should look great in bronze. I have a question about bronze, it's not a little work to keep bronze clean and shinney. Is there some kind of varnish that can be applied to keep them from tarnishing? My portlights on my Commander have been replaced with bronze portholes and they tarnish in about a week after being cleaned and polished.(Thanks for mentioning Bristol Bronze they still have my Pearson Commander potmetel insignia things)

[Bill]

I have a question about bronze, it's not a little work to keep bronze clean and shinney. --snip-- My portlights . . . tarnish in about a week after being cleaned and polished.

That's the beauty of bronze. Let them weather and soon you have the look of bronze statues -- a low maintenance finish. Never touch the bronze on Maika'i.

[bill@ariel231]

Pictures? Price? Please?

I'll have to look at my receipts. I had the castings processed to a sanded finish. I'll take care of the machining and polishing for Ariel#231. rough price was in the range of $500 or so in this state. Suggest calling Bristol Bronze for details (i don't know what the final price for a machined and polished set will run).

Bill@ariel231

[ebb]

Hello bill@ariel231

Can you describe please how the inner frame is connected to the outer frame?
My aluminum frames were held together with seriously small machine screws that were screwed into uncomfortably tiny blind seats.
Thanks!

[bill@ariel231]

Hello bill@ariel231

Can you describe please how the inner frame is connected to the outer frame?
My aluminum frames were held together with seriously small machine screws that were screwed into uncomfortably tiny blind seats.
Thanks!

The originals appear to be 8-32 machine screws. I'm hoping the deeper section will buy me a couple more threads in the outer frame. Based on the construction of some other port glass retainers, I've heard suggestions the threads should be through the outer frame (it saves time, it will hold better). however, I'm still going to try the blind seat per the original, worst case, I'll move up to 10-32 or 10-24 machine screws. :)

[edited 5 dec - I spent sunday drilling and tapping the frames.. the final implementation was 10-24 thread. I still get 8 turns or so per fastener]

Attached is a cross section:

[ebb]

OH OH Bill I just read your first post, Sorry! But won't edit this below...YOUR patterns, VERY cool, NOW you MUST show and tell!!! As a woodworker I know how much effort went into making that pattern perfect. But a big plus may have been (when I disassembled the lights, discovered that all frames in and out, except for a few details that could be taken care of at the foundry?) were ONE pattern.

Thanks Bill,
This now sounds like you are doing all the machining.
Roger is not providing any of this ? For 500 smackeroonies.
What did he want for dressing up the castings?
Theres is a lot of work in that if you are not set up for it on site.
I'm guessing these frames are not actually paired UNTIL they get machined as a pair?
Are you doing the blind tapping also? My frames are very flat in profile leaving no room for a mistake in drilling. And if I remember, no more than a couple threads in the hole. Pearson depended on the squeezability of the cabin liner to draw the frames together. (Your drawing shows a much thicker frame than 338's aluminum ones.

Went to the trouble of restoring and powder coating the aluminums redrilled for thru bolts with heads countersunk on the exterior. Much stronger but not ocean proof nor as classy as bronze with hidden fasteners that Winiarski has talked so long about befor offering these frames - just wanted to know what he had there.

What did he quote for ready to install? Polished, predrilled and countersunk inners? As the Admiral once pointed out in this forum - once they are paired you have two separate sets of the 4 paired frames. Lotta work.
Thanks again.

[The bronze frames I've lusted after that I've seen on The Admiral's boat and West Coast Tritons SEEM to be close in profile to the aluminum I became so familiar with. Bristol Bronze would had to have new full sized patterns made for the new bronze unless they have finally found original patterns to cast from. They would have to stay with original stuff since you cannot cast using existing frames as the result would be smaller overall frames. 338 has barely 1/4" lap all around on the existing cutout - a smaller frame could not be used!
I'm sure bill@ariel231 checked this out with Roger. It will be my first question if I decide to go for the gold er bronze.] And what do these retro frames weigh, is it an issue?


Bill231 You Gotta Give Us a Pic ASAP! ....and an OA length/width measure?
TOUSAND TAK!!!

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By the by, your work has now passed into a sort of patternmaker's D.Jone's Locker, a nail on the wall in his office - as Roger does not return patterns!!!