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Thread: I Need Info On Galvanized Steel Hardware

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Portsmouth, Virginia
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    142
    The ocean and sea salt water marine environment is highly corrosive,and dangerous, far differant than the fresh waters of rivers and lakes I can tell you.In the old days sailing ships had crews of experienced men who worked day in day out inspecting, cleaning, repairing, replacing, making thier own rigging.At sea in the Navy we were always fighting corrosion, it was socking how fast things became corroded. In time nothing on a ship lasts forever, the bottom all too soon is fouled, rope decays, frays or becomes unusable (I need to replace some of the rope that I bought only a few years ago, tackle wears out, motors age, even synthetic resins will in time come apart (a very long time) and these days with so much being manufactured overseas in third world slave wage countries, things like marine grade stainless steel are being reprocessed from who knows what and how and by who. I will try my best to go with the tried and true,to do preventative maintanance, I will be prepared replace anything and everything, have back-ups.It is the only reason that I replaced my damaged aluminum and plexiglass portlights with solid bronze 1" thick glass portholes, not to be salty although I like the look, they were also used and cheap, but they are tried and true, made for the marine environment.There seems to be some rule at sea that never fails...anything no matter how small that is unsafe or not right will get you.
    Last edited by Robert Lemasters; 11-17-2005 at 06:51 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    San Rafael, CA
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    I bought the galv turnbuckles at a local marine supply then. Don't know who to trust? I see them on the online marine suppliers - Hammilton may be one. I would guess that offshore fishermen are pretty demanding requiring good safe stuff no matter who makes it. We are so global now that maybe the 'tried and true' is only history and flea markets.

    As long as I had the boat there was no deterioration in any of the hot dipped galvy fittings - or the shrouds. And the tried and true method of worming parceling and serving, I think Mike pointed out once, was performed on ungalvanized wire rope. Of course the clipper ships used heavy cable, and maybe those rough tough ships didn't have a long life either. There is plenty anecdotal evidence (I don't mean the fallacious kind) however that shows the method works real well.
    Last edited by ebb; 11-17-2005 at 07:26 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Winyah Bay, SC
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    607
    I've heard (from Toss book/videos and from a couple friends - a boat builder, and a 2 time circumnavigator) the same as Ebb - that a galvanized rig, properly made and maintained, will last several times longer than a comparable stainless rig. The galvanized wire is "stretchier", able to take the shockes and stresses that standing rigging gets in a much better manner than comparatively "brittle" stainless wire. There is just a lot more work involved in getting it set up and keeping it in proper shape. Like Ebb, I think the best place to start making a galvy rig would be to get Brion Toss' "The Complete Riggers Apprentice" (which IMO is a must-have book if you have a sailboat, period) or a similar book which described how to not only make up the wire, but also describes some of the physical properties of the differing wire and fittings, as well as the geometry needed to figure rigging loads etc, in order to be able to properly size the rig for the vessel.

    I've considered a galvy rig for Katie Marie, but think that instead I am going to use stainless wire with terminal fittings like Norseman/Stalock. Using those types of fittings allows one to make their own rig, they are stronger than swedges and give the overall rig more strength, and are also relatively easy to repair or make up in remote locations. Another thing I want to look into, as a safety/emergency alternative, is some of the new synthetic lines that are used in rigging (primarily for race boats). A coil of line as a back-up stay or shroud would be much more compact to stow than a coil of 1x19 SS wire.
    Kurt - Ariel #422 Katie Marie
    --------------------------------------------------
    sailFar.net
    Small boats, long distances...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Portsmouth, Virginia
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    142
    My first job out of high school was in a rope mill, Wall Rope, where I worked utill the draft got me. The old mill had been in existance sinse 1840, rope making was a skill and craft based on solid engineering, tradition and most importantly good quality materials, natural or synthetic. Wall Rope extrueded it's own synthetic fibers (where I worked) and our Q&A department tested everything to milspec and other government and industry standards. I doubt very much that foriegn companys that make rope are equal in anyway to the rope we made then, in fact I am sure of it. Most of the rope and I won't get technical that I have purchased recently would have been rejected for any of a dozen reasons. We made wire rope centers that were twisted into wire rope at the Robeling works (same co. that made the cables for the Brooklyn Bridge) that have lasted almost forever. I am not sure of galvanization or how that material keeps from rusting, I have seen galvanized things rust in the presense of salt water. I have some stainless steel fittings that have showed discoloration or oxidation but a little stainless steel cleaner seems to clear that up. I have never seen any sign of ozidation on stainless wire rigging though.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    middle earth
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    Exclamation so this is probably what will happen

    before I spend avogadros number (6.02x10tothe23rd)on stainless,I will pre-rig or pre-size all the standing in 1/4 7x19 galv.I will use nico press swages and thimbles.I will see how all this works for a season or so then depending on the out come (it has to last a little while at least)I will re-rig in stainless.I dont know if the 7x19 will stretch compared to 1x19.I will keep in touch and when its done will upload fotos.
    Last edited by eric (deceased); 11-17-2005 at 04:46 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Hampton Roads Va.
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    Learn to splice the wire , lot stronger than the Nicro , all you need is a metal fid .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    Don't think that putting it off is the way to go.
    You'll probably have to work just as hard putting a galv system together as one in 316L and bronze. You probably will have to get 1/4" 7X7 (for splicing) or 1X19 from England. It's probably made in the orient there too, but there is a strong traditional minded crowd that demands the best, so they have it made the best and import it. Not here. The korean trawl wire had a fiber core, but you should go with all wire on the Ariel's tighter rig.

    Galv rope HAS to be parceled and served, it'll start rusting right away. Especially what you buy here. I believe you can only use nico on bare wire. What's the point? Escaping the country? Yer life depends on it.

    Grit your teeth, the Toss book is kind of eclectic, the best book on wire splicing has yet to be written. But it's the best on rigging ever. Wonder if Hervey Garret Smith ever illustrated the art???

    ************************************************** **********************

    For instance,
    Are you planning to use the original bronze chain plates? How are you making the transition to galv to avoid corrosion? Might have to find bronze shackles to act as toggles. Then parcel and serve around the splice-eye and put in a bronze thimble and put it on to the shackle.

    Or you could make some new chain plates out of iron and get them hot dipped galvanized.
    Last edited by ebb; 11-18-2005 at 04:04 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    3,621

    Talking Splice it

    Don't think that putting it off is the way to go.

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