Ariel #414

[mbd]

Nope. They were ground and buffed, then I primed them with an aluminum primer, then a gray lavender undercoat , then the bronze spray paint - time and funds were short. So, you're probably right Nathan, but I hope you're wrong. Time will tell...

How have your properly pre-treated frames held up?

[mbd]

For comparison to the earlier post here: http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/a...1&d=1180709190

This is how the frames look now:

[mbd]

Another shot from this morning. Too bad a topsides job wasn't in the cards! Tim's work had drawn to a close, so yesterday, me and my friend spent all day doing the bottom, boot top, repainting the window frames, applying the new name and whatever else we could to get ready for the launch today.

[mbd]

Here's a BEFORE from Tim's web page.

[mbd]

...and AFTER. What a transformation!

[dasein668]

Nope. They were ground and buffed, then I primed them with an aluminum primer, then a gray lavender undercoat , then the bronze spray paint - time and funds were short. So, you're probably right Nathan, but I hope you're wrong. Time will tell...

How have your properly pre-treated frames held up?

I hope they hold up for you too. That said, touching up the paint every year wouldn't be the end of the world. Tim does it (with his clear laquer).

My frames are holding up very well so far. I used the Awlgrip system including etching and chromate priming with an LPU topcoat. After two full seasons I haven't noticed any issues at all.

Your boat looks great, Mike. Looking forward to seeing her out on Casco Bay this summer!

[mbd]

Thanks Nathan. I'm really pleased with how it all came together.

Good luck with your launch on Wednesday. The weather is looking MUCH nicer! Heck, it might even be pleasant out there!

[dasein668]

Well, at least it looks like it won't be miserable!

Back to Whitefield one last time today to wrap up a few odds and ends, then hopefully sailing on Thursday or Friday!

[414]

Hi Nathan (in response to post #188 of this thread. Way back in 2007),

I'm the new owner of 414 "Sea Glass" and I've read through this thread about 5 times now (yes it's a little much but I'm excited damn it!) and I just realized I can actually contribute here.

The portlight frames still look great 10 years later. No chipping or fading, or at least if they are fading it is very even. For this specific application it looks like the rustoleum is a great choice.

-Ben

[414]

Hey Everybody,

Finally pulled the '83 Yanmar 2GM out of #414 today. Surprisingly quick and straightforward job. Mike (mbd) had done more than half the work for me before I bought it. All I really did today was unhook the wiring, fuel lines, raw water and unbolt (had to cut one) engine mount, and the control linkages and come-along it up through the companionway. It's now sitting on blocks in the shop ready for teardown. I've already taken the exhaust elbow off and it was pretty rough in there, I don't have a picture to post now but I will post it soon. Here are a couple shots of the engine ready to come out and one of it gone. Feels crazy to have it out - and exciting!

-Ben

P.S. Sorry for the sideways images. Still learning how to use the forum!

[414]

Here is a view of the inside of the exhaust elbow and the exhaust port on the head. The port on the head was about 2/3 full but I couldn't help but poke it before getting a picture. Obviously the head is coming off so we'll see how she looks on the inside.

On another note - I'm pulling the current fuel tank and building a new one. Any input on size that would make sense? From research it looks as though 3 gallons will get about 12 hours of run time so I'm thinking between a 3 and 4 gallon tank but I'd be open to input before I go building one. It will be a custom tank - not interested in a portable or plastic tank - I'll just make it up from either stainless, aluminum or (dare I say it?!) mild steel! or I might cut up the current tank and reuse it's bits and pieces. It's aluminum. The reason to move to a new tank are many including:
-Tank is under cockpit floor and the filler is in the cockpit floor too.
-Tank is too big and it will take too long to move 12 gallons of diesel through this little bugger.
-Tank has no access port for cleaning. New tank will include a port large enough to get a hand inside

Another question I have on the tank is where is the best place to mount it? I'm thinking about inside the rear lazarette with the fill neck in there too. I'd need to open the hatch to fill it but it would limit the potential for water entry and would be nice and tidy looking. Spills while filling could be an issue with other items in there but I need to be careful either way (don't want diesel going overboard through the cockpit drains either). Breather would be kept in the same location on the transom.

Thanks for any input!

-Ben

[Bisquit]

Good luck with the rebuild. Looks like she needs it but I think the 2GM is worth the effort. I have a 2GM and I put my tank on a shelf under the cockpit floor above the stuffing box. The fill is on the cockpit floor but no problems with water or spills so far.

[414]

Hi Bisquit,

Thanks for the response - I know it's a common place for the tank and would probably be fine but it just gives me the hebejebes! What has your experience been with with fuel consumption? Ever have issues with algae in the tank?

Pulled the head off late last night and everything looks good. Cylinder liners are in great shape with cross hatch still visible and no scoring or uneven wear apparent. Valves looked good too. A little carbon build up on everything but nothing that would cause the engine to not run or even run rough. I lapped the valves since I had it apart anyway and cleaned all the carbon that was accessible. Going to order the gaskets and get it back together soon.

The thing I was not expecting was the water injection elbow (it's the u-shaped one in this case). On the outlet side it was very corroded but had a fair amount of area for gasses and water to escape as you can see in the picture. After much heating with the oxy-propane rosebud the inlet side came apart (meaning separated from the exhaust piping that is between the water injection elbow and the cylinder head, what would be called the manifold if it had multiple ports) the interior had closed down to less than a pencil's width for the exhaust to escape! It was impossible to see this until the two had been separated. In the photo you can see a greenish area that is the passage.

So my thoughts now, after seeing the inside of the engine looking quite normal, is that the exhaust had closed down to the point where back pressure was extremely high and thus the engine could not pull in the fresh air charge. This made the fuel to air ratio very rich for any given engine load and caused incomplete combustion, giving the black smoke that Mike experienced back when she conked out. The only thing this doesn't explain is why the mechanic reported low compression on inspection in the boat. I should have tested it before tearing the engine down but I was just so convinced I'd find a smoking gun in the valve train or scored up cylinder liners I just went for it - lesson learned.