Good point. Dasein has a solid 1/2 inch or more at that location. And a routed cove doesn't need to be very deep. You just need the right bit.
Good point. Dasein has a solid 1/2 inch or more at that location. And a routed cove doesn't need to be very deep. You just need the right bit.
Nathan
Dasein, Triton 668
www.dasein668.com
If you're thinking about this classy style of coving, you have a variety of corebox bits to choose from. Depending on the width of the cove, it's obvious that the wider the bit the shallower the radius in the rout. So as dasein668 sez, you don't have to go deep to get a nice effect.
I wonder what is the best width for a cove stripe? Anybody know? It could be too narrow, or too wide for that matter....?
And what the hell is a corebox? Isn't it a 'coving' bit?
Last edited by ebb; 05-23-2007 at 07:44 AM.
Getting anxious to hit the water again...
Mike
Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)
I used 1/4" vinyl for the cove on 376 (look at the last few posts in the 376 gallery thread). Been on for 3 years and not coming off, not yellowing. Just make sure you don't have a fender rubbing right over it at the dock. Also, I didn't spend more than 45 minutes taping it on both sides (including making the pencil marks equal distance down from the rub rail). I'm lazy and planed to see how the vinyl looked before re-doing it in paint, but I really don't see why I should waste the time.http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...1&d=1168725909
Last edited by Hull376; 05-23-2007 at 09:27 PM.
Kent
Mike
Sea Glass is looking great on Tim's site. What projects are left to complete after she leaves the shop?
cheers,
Bill
Ho boy. Let's see, just off the top of my head: Commission engine, get zincs, install prop, bilge pump, put on the coamings, miscellaneous deck hardware including lights, install handrails, lifelines, varnish on the hatches, interior trim, bottom paint, number boards, vinyl name, rewire electric to mast, etc. etc.
At least the BIG stuff is done - and done right.
Mike
Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)